easy, easy and easy- brake job
#1
easy, easy and easy- brake job
I would like to once again express my thanks and say how cool this web site is. How about it man. Bunch of people coming together to help one another out. Talk about good, there is still much good in this world. This site has saved me over 500 bucks in repairs by you offering help to my problems...thanks. ok back to the repair. Changed my front brake pads on my 2000 Tacoma pre-runner this weekend, what a piece ok cake. Sorry no pics as I do not have a digital camera, but here is what I did.
1. Jack the truck up/ remove wheel
2. Place on jack stands
3. Turn what ever wheel you start with facing out, this will give you real easy access to the caliper assembly
4. Take a minute to visually inspect what you are about to work on. Find and locate the parts you will have to remove and try and memorize how they go on before taking them off
5. I removed the retaining clip using a flathead screwdriver.
6. I removed the retaining pins (tap the back side until enough of the head is sticking out and use pliers and grab the head, tap on pliers to drive pin out
7. Removed the retaining spring
8. Here is where I kind of went my own way. I removed the outer pads shims first. Just take out the shims, not the pad.
9. Removed the cap from your master cylinder
10. With the shims out, gently use a screwdriver pushing against the old brake pad to push the caliper cylinders back into the caliper. Go slow!!! This should not take much force at all. Mine went back in very very easily, Then removed old pad
11. Take new pad, apply anti seize on back side, put on first shim, apply another thin layer of anti-seize and put on final shims (nothing on back side)
12. Repeat process for inner pad, as well as other wheel
13. No bleed is necessary
Whole job took no more then an hour
1. Jack the truck up/ remove wheel
2. Place on jack stands
3. Turn what ever wheel you start with facing out, this will give you real easy access to the caliper assembly
4. Take a minute to visually inspect what you are about to work on. Find and locate the parts you will have to remove and try and memorize how they go on before taking them off
5. I removed the retaining clip using a flathead screwdriver.
6. I removed the retaining pins (tap the back side until enough of the head is sticking out and use pliers and grab the head, tap on pliers to drive pin out
7. Removed the retaining spring
8. Here is where I kind of went my own way. I removed the outer pads shims first. Just take out the shims, not the pad.
9. Removed the cap from your master cylinder
10. With the shims out, gently use a screwdriver pushing against the old brake pad to push the caliper cylinders back into the caliper. Go slow!!! This should not take much force at all. Mine went back in very very easily, Then removed old pad
11. Take new pad, apply anti seize on back side, put on first shim, apply another thin layer of anti-seize and put on final shims (nothing on back side)
12. Repeat process for inner pad, as well as other wheel
13. No bleed is necessary
Whole job took no more then an hour
#3
so there is no need to take off the caliber? just turn the wheels and take pads out?? how are your breaks now?
also, i called the dealer about doing the pads and turning the rotor, he said that they may have to take off the hubs and that would run alot more...there shouldn't be any need to mess with the hubs right? thanks!
also, i called the dealer about doing the pads and turning the rotor, he said that they may have to take off the hubs and that would run alot more...there shouldn't be any need to mess with the hubs right? thanks!
Last edited by CLin9383; 09-22-2003 at 06:15 PM.
#4
The brakes work awesome. besides using a lug wrench to take off the tires, no other wrenches are required to change the pads, if you elect not to cut the rotors cut. It is suggested that you have them cut, i did not feel mine needed them this time. As for the hub, i think it all comes off in one assembly, not for certain though. This job is a cynch and anyone could do it. yes turn the wheel out and remove the pads. The only tool you will need is a pliers and flathead
#6
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Oregon
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I did my 95 4runner last weekend. $22 for the lifetime warranty brakes at autozone...when they are dead, take 'em back and get new ones. Nice deal. The process took about 1 hour for both sides because I was working slow. Very easy process and no need to remove the calipers.
#7
Contributing Member
I was told by the dealer that on 2nd gen. 4Runners, you can not turn the rotors more than one time, they have to be replaced the second time the pads are replaced. Is this true? They wanted almost $500 for the front alone.
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#8
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Originally Posted by Paul H.
I was told by the dealer that on 2nd gen. 4Runners, you can not turn the rotors more than one time, they have to be replaced the second time the pads are replaced. Is this true? They wanted almost $500 for the front alone.
Words of Wisdom Grasshopper....NEVER, EVER get any work done by a dealer. EVER! These guys are scam artists. Plus...never heard of that rotor thing concerning 2nd brake job.
People to avoid:
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#9
Contributing Member
Yep. Had to replace my rotors years ago on the '95. And if you do cut them, they'll most likely warp. I hear it's the same on the '99, although the rotors are easy to replace on it. On the '95 you have to pull the hubs. I've wondered if the rotors could be glass peened to alleviate the warping.
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