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Changing brake fluid
#1
Changing brake fluid
Never performed this task. Reviewed this link Yota 4x4 brake service and have one question. Where can I buy a bleeder fitting. My Yota dealership nor my local Autozone, NAPA or Advance Auto seem to know what I'm refering to.
#2
Maybe you want to look into a Motive Power Bleeder:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...=power+bleeder
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...=power+bleeder
#4
Originally Posted by <96 Runner>
Bleeder fitting? You mean the fitting on each brake that is already there?
Remove the rubber nub from the bleed valve and put the bleeder fitting and hose on the valve...
#5
The fitting that's on the truck looks like a small zerk fitting. All I do is shove a piece of clear tubing over that fitting. The tubing is available at any hardware store.
Take a look under the truck and you'll know what I'm talking about.
Edit: the valve/fitting can be seen in this picture in the 4x4wire article. It's the little nub at the top of the picture:
Take a look under the truck and you'll know what I'm talking about.
Edit: the valve/fitting can be seen in this picture in the 4x4wire article. It's the little nub at the top of the picture:
#6
Ahh... okay, so that's all it is. Got it. Thanks Steve.
I ordered my Motive today and should have it "soon".
I ordered my Motive today and should have it "soon".
#7
The Tech article said changing brake fluid can be a 1 man job. Is the fact that the article states to place the end of the drain line in a can with some clean fluid already in it the reason why I do not need to close the bleed valve between pedal pumps?
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#8
That is correct. But I highly recommend a self-bleed system like the Motiv or the Mighty Vac (which I have). It makes it much easier and greatly reduces the chance of "hyper-extending" the MC piston.
I love my Mighty Vac.
I love my Mighty Vac.
#9
Originally Posted by Back40
The Tech article said changing brake fluid can be a 1 man job. Is the fact that the article states to place the end of the drain line in a can with some clean fluid already in it the reason why I do not need to close the bleed valve between pedal pumps?
#10
Originally Posted by Robinhood150
Be careful though, it's very easy to suck air back into the system, especially when you crack the valve open for the first time. There's still going to be air in the tube before it purges to the container. I've never done the 1 person method, but I'd feel more comfortable with 2 people.
) the MC piston. I think what you mean here is the rubber catching a rust edge in the MC cylinder bore and tearing as a result when you press the piston in more than usual.
#11
Originally Posted by Mohamed
just use a block of wood under the brake pedal if you're worried about "hyper-extending" (whatever that means
)
)If the piston pushes (pulls) too far it can kill the seals, causing a loss of pressure and a toasted MC.
#12
Originally Posted by <96 Runner>
What's your problem?
If the piston pushes (pulls) too far it can kill the seals, causing a loss of pressure and a toasted MC.
If the piston pushes (pulls) too far it can kill the seals, causing a loss of pressure and a toasted MC.
Sorry meant as a confused rolling eyes, kinda like what Will Smith used to do on the Fresh Prince of Bel Air, I do that in real life when someone says something really wierd or confusing, like what the heck are you talking about (just imagine me turning my head and rolling my eyes looking up at the ceiling and making a dogg confused sound like, arf?);how about this simley...
...better? 
Anyway, never heard such a word "hyper-extending an MC." From what i see, I don't believe that is possible to bust a seal like that. Internal springs, rods, and pistons inside a MC cylinder bore are usually rigidiodly connected, and hold up quite well, unless very old. But...everything is worth investigating and I certainly don't know everything. I had to go bust out the old classroom manual and the 2 man bleed method has nothing in there about hyperextending the mc. It does talk about pushrod misalignment, but that's the only thing close enough. I'll ask a friend of mine who just finished and graduated the entire auto tech program, and see if that is possible.
I think personally that because brake fluid is hygroscopic, as you probably already know, meaning it loves to pickup water, and we all know what water and metal does. So you get a corrosion area, especially in vehicles where their fluid hasn't been changed in a long time and if the seal catches one of those corrion areas, it damages it; it bound to happen in the areas where the piston assembly doesn't contact or reach a whole lot, in fact usually very little if not at all contact.
But like i said, it would be interesting to know if indeed you can hyper-extend a MC piston and bust the seals as a result. I wanna look into that.
#13
Mohamed-
Ok cool. I was like "what?" I have never had a problem with you. Those dang smilies!
Well, take a look at Gadgets site regarding the MC. Over-exerting the piston is why everyone suggests a block of wood under the brake pedal during bleeding.
"Hyper-extending" was probably a bad choice of words, as it has to do with the human body...
Later.
Ok cool. I was like "what?" I have never had a problem with you. Those dang smilies!

Well, take a look at Gadgets site regarding the MC. Over-exerting the piston is why everyone suggests a block of wood under the brake pedal during bleeding.
"Hyper-extending" was probably a bad choice of words, as it has to do with the human body...

Later.
Last edited by rimpainter.com; Jun 30, 2004 at 07:34 PM.
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