JD

I've checked the transfercase (plug on the rear) and is has enough ATF in it. But what is that oilpan between the transfercase and the transmission? There is a drainplug init, but the Haynes manual doesn't say anything about it. It must be part of the hydraulic transfercase, but if it has to be filled from the rear plug that is positioned level with the bottom? Or is is filled via the transmission?

In your case, you have a hydrolic transfer case which uses ATF just like the transmission. But they do not share the same fluid. Each is filled from different places.

No, not quite correct. When you do an oil change on the transmission you MUST also drain the oil from the small center pan as this is the transfer hydraulic control section and it does share the same ATF as the transmission itself. Both are filled via the under hood filler tube. This section also has a mini valve body and its own pump etc.

Your actual transfer also takes ATF but it has its own filler and drain plug at the rear of the transfer. It also has its own oil cooler.

If I was you I would now be looking at replacing the solenoids.

Actually, if you are planning on keeping the Surf for awhile what you really need is what I have in a box in my garage . A brand NEW 1994 V6 A340H complete with bell, wiring etc etc. Still in its Toyota crate and there's nothing like a new one

A340H

Ava

Haynes' workshop manual has overlooked this small detail, as it does others.

In your opinion, could the transfercase be responsible for my problems? It does have a clutch which could be disengaged for some reason.

Nice clean tranny you have there; need my address? Howmuch did that set you back?

Ava.

Ava

The fan clutch in my car has a pump (or is a pump) that has a reservoir in the center and four ports that are controlled by a bi-metalic coil that sits in the air stream from the radiator. The first two ports open early (medium temperature) and administer fluid directly between the rims and grooves that form the frictional part of the clutch. If all four ports are fully open (really hot air coming from the radiator) the fluid is juist pumped round fast and is squeezed between the clutch' rims and grooves by centrifugal force causing maximum friction. Any special 'magic' the fluid has to offer increases the effectivity. I had to (no resonable alternative available) dilute that fluid (thick like honey) with about 50% of Castrol GTX that I had in a can for over 20 years (a very good year, indeed). Seems to work well, the car doesn't overheat in stop-and-go or highway traffic, including A/C at max, temperature outside over 35 Celcius (95 F) and humidity over 80%.

Ava.

JD

In your opinion, could the transfercase be responsible for my problems?

No.

As you have now discounted the oil level scenario it is now time to replace the solenoids.

Nice clean tranny you have there; need my address? Howmuch did that set you back?

The same p/n in the US comes up $7k !!! I don't need it anymore and I've been meaning to put it on Ebay or some of the boards for sales. I want $US1400 for it which is a bargain Many shops will charge close to that just for a recon of an old trans. Shall I nail the lid down and take it to the wharf.

Ava

Not yet, not yet, hold that boat! I've found an interesting detail in the schematic of the ECT computer in the Haynes repair manual. On page 12-21 there are four solenoids and a speed sensor that have a common ground wire. If for some reason that wire temporarily makes bad contact, *none* of the solenoids would engage! That would definitely stop the car, wouldn't it?

There must be a loose or oxidized connector that gets pushed around when stopping the car and every once in a while that black/white common ground wire’s connector stops making contact. Me revving the engine wiggles it back in eventually and I can drive again. Does that sound plausible to you?

Now I only have to find the connector in the harness that comes from the trans.

Keep your fingers crossed, JD.

I've seen rebuild trannies on the web that cost more than what you're asking.

Ava.

JD

Fingers are crossed for ya but the problem is if there was a bad ground or open circuit on any of the solenoids or speed sensors the ECU fault system would have activated, as that is what it monitors.

Babypig eluded to your TPS awhile back. The correct voltage feed from the TPS to the A340H ECU is critical to its operation.

I'm going from memory as its been awhile but connect the yellow/white stripe wire in the check connector box to a voltmeter. Turn on ignition and slowly depress gas pedal. You should get a progressive reading of volts ie 1,2,3,4 etc. Each volt reading corresponds to a signal to a solenoid etc. If its out the solenoid switching sequence will be wrong.

JD

Ava

But if a car is so badly managed by it's former owners, why don't I ever see any error code whatsoever? My guess it they shut down the diagnostic system in the computer.

I don't have any specifications for the check connector so could you look and see what contact the Y/W wire is on?

I just looked, and without draining the coolant I cannot be a 100% sure, but I would swear those 'specialists' didn't flush my cooling system; they just removed my thermostat... When the temp is low enough I'll drain the system to have a peek.

Ava.

JD

Ava

My guess it they shut down the diagnostic system in the computer.

Can't be done and in any event yours is working as it gave you an all clear code ie continuous flash.

I don't have any specifications for the check connector so could you look and see what contact the Y/W wire is on?

Its the DG terminal in the check connector. Hook voltmeter to it with earth in E1 and with ignition on when pressing the gas pedal you should get a rising voltage up to 7 volts.

I will take a pic hopefully tomorrow of a connector you can disconnect that will turn the trans into a manual shifter as it bypasses the electrical system and if the problem occurs then its mechanical.

JD

Ava

I'm a computer programmer. I say it can be done, including the 'I'm okay' flashes.

Thanks for the info! In the meanwhile I've found these very interesting pages at:
http://www.autoshop101.com/autoshop15.html (Index)
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h16.pdf - ECT stuff
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h17.pdf - Transmission
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h27.pdf - Diag Engine Controls

I'l might need ti didconnect that cable! Yesterday I fooled around with cables that run over the trans to the back. They should not have anything to do with the trans but the car was *never* better that day. Fingers crossed.

In the pages above I found a piece about the solenoids. Even if both #1 and #2 fail I should be able to drive in first and third. I can't drive at all, not even backwards.

I did take a peek at the thermostat. It's still there. But it's blocked fully open. Somuch for their craftmanship.

Ava.

Ava

On my check connector it probably is the TT connector. It shows eight stages, starting at zero volts for a short while. Perfect, I think (in the links I gave you there's a page with a graph and it's exactly like my car).

Since I measured the staircase voltage two days ago (I also measured other connectors in the check connector) the car shifted very harsh. I'ts softened now to an almost normal shift. Don't know what caused it, are there inputs in the check connector? Despite the hard shifting, the problem is still there.

Did you find time to take a pic of that connector yet?

Guess what!? I found a Castrol outlet in the center of Paramaribo offering tranny flushes! I actually didn't have the time to see the flusher but they let the car run (use its own pump) for a while on the machine with an oilfilter in the lines they took from the radiator, and then changed the full contents of the trans (11 Qts) the same way. Looks like cherry sirup now.

The radiator people flushed the cooling system again but in the wrong direction. After a week there was some debris on top of the cooling block, blocking 30-40% of the small tubes, that won't get out unless you reverse the flow, won't it? I had them run the pump in the other direction for a while.

They also explained that they always block the thermostat open and remove the blockage after the second flush. They didn't. I think it saves them time, no removal of hard to get to hot engine parts when you come back for that flush. But the computer is now working in open loop to heat up the engine with petrol, expecting an thermostat to stop unwanted cooling. Mpg is down again. I'll soon fix that myself!

Lets hope the tranny flush has some positive influence on the problem.

Since I bought this 'wreck' I finaly hear how a V6 should sound. The engine always was quite rough. Sometimes it was a four, and other times it was a five cylinder car. I took the heads off, had the eaten away places (cooled by acid rain?) welded and resurfaced, I welded a leak at he #6 cylinder myself with a cast iron rod and manually resurfaced the mating face. One of the injectors was partly clogged, fixed it with some terpentine and compressed air while hooked up to the battery. Now I think I can put a coin on its side on the intake chamber and it would suprise if it would fall.

The valve tapping problem I solved noticeably by using Castol GTX 20W50 instead of the subscribed 10W40. I'ts never that cold in the tropics, the pressure won't be a problem; nor the delivery.

Ava.

JD

Ava

Sorry I haven’t been able to get back to you sooner but I have had a few urgent things that had to be done and the PC is a bad distraction, LOL.

Those TPS readings indicates its fine which makes it more and more likely to be a mechanical/hydraulic problem.

I have to go on memory and I think the plug you need to disconnect should be a blue one. Its located in the trans harness on the right side approx near the firewall. This will turn the trans into a manual shifter but you will not have a 2nd gear, ie 1st position stays as 1st , 2nd becomes 3rd and 3rd becomes OD. This is the same result as if you had both solenoids fail.

If the problem occurs while shifting and driving in this manner then it’s a mechanical/hydraulic problem not electrical.

As you filter had gunk in it, the full trannie flush should be a good test.

I will be leaving on an across Oz trip very shortly so hopefully TechWrench will revisit soon and be able to continue assisting.

JD