what all does it take to swap a 3vze into a 4.3?
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
what all does it take to swap a 3vze into a 4.3?
i have a 1993 toyota pickup 4wd with the 3vze. i rebuilt it about 1500 miles ago but one of the wrist pins were bad. and yesterday it shot the #6 cylinder rod out the side of the block. i was just wondering if anyone had done this yet and what all it would take to swap out the 3.0 with the 4.3. any help is appreciated.
#3
Registered User
auto or manual trans? check advance adapters. But if it were me personally I would use the chevy trans and not the yotas especially if your working with an auto trans. IIRC the 4.3L uses your standard SBC trans bell housing so the possibilities are endless if keeping the chevy trans. You will also have to deal with the driveshaft as well. I have no experience with the swap to say you have to lengthen shorten etc etc. Then you have the transfer case to deal with as well. That's where it gets funny, depending on what transfer case the gear driven yota cases are pretty stout more then some chevy's but not all of them.
If you haven't already take a troll over to the Domestic engine swap section here as well. Do a search for 4.3 too in the build threads also.
If you haven't already take a troll over to the Domestic engine swap section here as well. Do a search for 4.3 too in the build threads also.
Last edited by xxxtreme22r; 06-13-2011 at 05:52 PM.
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
i have a 5spd tranny. i dont know the gear ratios or anything. i just know hat i need a new engine. it has 31's on it and at about 2700rpm in 5th im doin 60mph. idk if that tells you anything. i havent ever messed with toyotas til this year. im more on the chevy stuff.
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
if it is sas in the front, the axles go all the way into the hubs without cv joints? or does it still. idk i need alot of help. i can do the wrench work i just dont know the technical terms and such. i can post some pics of the front dif and transfer case and such if that would help.
Last edited by 93tonkatoy; 06-13-2011 at 06:51 PM.
#6
Registered User
if you have access to a welder steel and already have a chevy engine/tranny xfer in mind...id say go for it.. but if you plan to use either the stock toyota tranny or xfer its gonna be $500+ just for adapters, if you retain the stock toy tranny you can keep it in the stock location i think so no driveline mods..
Trending Topics
#9
Registered User
so i was readin your thread and i was almost tempted to just move on but i am in a giving mood so i thought i would help you get started on your swap!
First you need a 4.3L (personally i would get a efi vortec they produce more power stock then a stock 350 in some cases) i went with the 1994 bravada vortec Vin W with has the most power for the stock 4.3L V6 i am assuming you were leaning to not the 4.3L V8 the v8 is harder to find as well as parts. if you are handy with fabrication then i would say build your own mounts there really easy just time consuming as with all fab work.
Second, is what transmission do you want to use. i do believe you have the R150 but i could be wrong. that is the standard V6 toyota manual for a lot of years i also went with the R150.
i hope this helps out so you know what your getting into!
Third, Advance Adapters has a whole line of bellhousing adapters to the toyota trans personally i think the toyota trans is fine for the swap I have three friends that did the 1UZ swap and they all drive like assholes in a Ferrari and all they managed to break is there 5.29 Detroits locked rear ends, I digress. the bellhousing kits come with a shift fork and hardware and pilot, then you will need or have made a clutch which is 10.5 in. with 23 spline, a pressure plate for a GM to fit your flywheel there are a few 153 tooth, 160 tooth on almost all gm's this is the case for a 350 and lower and some 350's had bigger ones BB are completly different as bolt patterns but 350 and under CI you should be ok. I went with the jegs 150 tooth flywheel for a 350 $75 vs all the others for $200+ every where else and works just fine. you will also need a FJ cruiser slave cylinder.
if you use the toyota trans and x case you won't have to move it or modify your drive shafts, But if you choose to go with the Chev trans then you will either have to mock everything up where you want it and fabricate or buy mounts, crossmember, driveshafts, possibly cut the tunnel in your cab. its recommended to have at least a 3 inch lift with 1.5"-2" body which isn't needed every one claims that it helps with cooling so eh i would do it any ways to make it easier on your self and have more room but its do-able with out.
you can use the GM power steering pump on your toyota steering box just need a hose custom made with the toyota nut on the pressure line. you will need a fuel pump air tex sells one, any efi 4.3L intank pump will bolt in to your existing pump location.
you will need to figure out what you are going to do about cooling the engine AA sell one for $450ish a 4 core with the spouts in the right locations for the engine, or you can figure out how to route your hoses to work with out melting or getting caught in the pullys i would recomend a serpintine belt not V and a electric fan not a clutch fan that will save you soooo much head ache and grief also get the computer for the engine your using. wiring which was stated above if you use the GM computer and tie into the toyota make sure you have a VSS that sends a electric input to the computer or you will have stalling problems and MPG loss.
as for your oil pan you should be fine with the stock 4.3L if you have ifs then you might have to dent it a little or modify it.
if you have IFS then AA claims all there parts will be compliante with it
and if you do SAS like mine you won't have any problems. well i think i summed up all my hard work and hundreds of hours of research and searching and experiance I've once with a chev 350 and doing it again with the 4.3L.
so far my total is:
AA=$870
engine=$300
trans=trade work (free 90 free)
Turbo= Free (just laying around the garage for years)
wire work=in progress
fab work all me baby
buying and selling parts and selling donor vehicles=-$1000
so far Ive gained money doing this swap
First you need a 4.3L (personally i would get a efi vortec they produce more power stock then a stock 350 in some cases) i went with the 1994 bravada vortec Vin W with has the most power for the stock 4.3L V6 i am assuming you were leaning to not the 4.3L V8 the v8 is harder to find as well as parts. if you are handy with fabrication then i would say build your own mounts there really easy just time consuming as with all fab work.
Second, is what transmission do you want to use. i do believe you have the R150 but i could be wrong. that is the standard V6 toyota manual for a lot of years i also went with the R150.
i hope this helps out so you know what your getting into!
Third, Advance Adapters has a whole line of bellhousing adapters to the toyota trans personally i think the toyota trans is fine for the swap I have three friends that did the 1UZ swap and they all drive like assholes in a Ferrari and all they managed to break is there 5.29 Detroits locked rear ends, I digress. the bellhousing kits come with a shift fork and hardware and pilot, then you will need or have made a clutch which is 10.5 in. with 23 spline, a pressure plate for a GM to fit your flywheel there are a few 153 tooth, 160 tooth on almost all gm's this is the case for a 350 and lower and some 350's had bigger ones BB are completly different as bolt patterns but 350 and under CI you should be ok. I went with the jegs 150 tooth flywheel for a 350 $75 vs all the others for $200+ every where else and works just fine. you will also need a FJ cruiser slave cylinder.
if you use the toyota trans and x case you won't have to move it or modify your drive shafts, But if you choose to go with the Chev trans then you will either have to mock everything up where you want it and fabricate or buy mounts, crossmember, driveshafts, possibly cut the tunnel in your cab. its recommended to have at least a 3 inch lift with 1.5"-2" body which isn't needed every one claims that it helps with cooling so eh i would do it any ways to make it easier on your self and have more room but its do-able with out.
you can use the GM power steering pump on your toyota steering box just need a hose custom made with the toyota nut on the pressure line. you will need a fuel pump air tex sells one, any efi 4.3L intank pump will bolt in to your existing pump location.
you will need to figure out what you are going to do about cooling the engine AA sell one for $450ish a 4 core with the spouts in the right locations for the engine, or you can figure out how to route your hoses to work with out melting or getting caught in the pullys i would recomend a serpintine belt not V and a electric fan not a clutch fan that will save you soooo much head ache and grief also get the computer for the engine your using. wiring which was stated above if you use the GM computer and tie into the toyota make sure you have a VSS that sends a electric input to the computer or you will have stalling problems and MPG loss.
as for your oil pan you should be fine with the stock 4.3L if you have ifs then you might have to dent it a little or modify it.
if you have IFS then AA claims all there parts will be compliante with it
and if you do SAS like mine you won't have any problems. well i think i summed up all my hard work and hundreds of hours of research and searching and experiance I've once with a chev 350 and doing it again with the 4.3L.
so far my total is:
AA=$870
engine=$300
trans=trade work (free 90 free)
Turbo= Free (just laying around the garage for years)
wire work=in progress
fab work all me baby
buying and selling parts and selling donor vehicles=-$1000
so far Ive gained money doing this swap
Last edited by Tyerial; 06-15-2011 at 02:30 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Mike Honcho420 (04-11-2020)
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
thanks for all that helpful info. i think im goin to go with a tbi tho. i dont want alot of horse power. my truck went fine with only 150hp. except up hills lol. well thanks all you guys. ill get pics up when i get around to gettin parts and stuff.
#13
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Kingman AZ
Posts: 1,125
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
for mine 1 i used a 92 cpi chevy 4.3 2 it helps if you have the whole donorr vehicle 3 the wiring wasn't that bad 4 i used AA's bellhousing to retain my toyota r150 5spd i made my own motor mounts used summit racing and jegs for the fuel parts and i used a speedway motors 22x19 chevy radiator and a 16inch electric fan i am also running duals so i decided to push back the 4.3 and trans with cases 5inches. I used jba headers bought my ecu and harness from my local junkyard for 60 it took me 1.5 year to make it ca smog legal but at the time i was working 6days a week and 12hrs a day. but if you interested read some of the 4.3 swaps on this message board oh forgot i used AAs conversion clutch but i dont like it all that much it doesn't seem strong enough for the 37s im running
#15
Registered User
Thread Starter
ok well thanks for more of the info guys. so i need the ecu from the car that the engine came from, the bell housing adapters, the clutch it, the slave cylinder, the wiring, headers, and a radiator? is there anything else i need. the truck is stock ride height with 31's.
#18
Registered User
Thread Starter
ok thanks guys. is the lift just for the oil pan clearance? because i can fab one of them up no problem. well i hope no problem. i dont wanna lift it if i dont have to. i like it at practically stock height
#19
Registered User
Thread Starter
#20
Registered User
Thread Starter
i cant even figure out how to get this thing to upload pictures. i did upload an album if you guys wanna check it out tho. there is only like 8 pics. they are all fairly recent. the one on the side of the road was like two weeks ago. its hasnt changed since then. and you dont realize how much you love your truck until its gone lol.
Last edited by 93tonkatoy; 06-20-2011 at 09:48 PM.