VW 1.8t in 87 4Runner
08-13-2011, 11:56 AM
#1
VW 1.8t in 87 4Runner
This swap came about from a Tube chasis Rock Crawler my buddy built with an AEB and toyota drivetrain. Except I found a deal on a AWP which I know will add to the difficulty of the swap. It some what common for tdi to be swap into 4runner/pick-up and suzuki sideskick/samuari.
we shall see how this works out... I think with alittle redneck enginuity some trial and error i can have this done before the world ends.
Heres how this really started... I needed a clutch and the current 22re was burning oil like an oil tanker fire. i had an extra engine laying around with low lieage so i figured i remove and replace. Everything was great for the first 100 miles then I blew a head gasket.:mad: Sooo I started from scratch. I bought a new head and timing chain kit water/oil pump and pick up tube... I replaced everything but the bottom end. I drove it for about 600-700 miles and I either spun a bearing or broke a rod. So I go throwing more money away, should be worth it when its all said and done.
Parts to start swap:
AWP complete engine harnes and ecu $700
Acme adapter for TDI to W56 toyota trans w/ flywheel modified for vw crank and pilot bushing$600
factory toyota clutch $150
AEB turbo exhaust housing $15 from junk yard
AEB fuel rail $15 from junk yard
Innovative engineering timing belt and water pump kit with mechanical tensioner $250
Gas pedal and wiring for use of drive by wire $20 from junk yard
Yesterday I removed the old engine and installed the adapter and clutch. Today i was planning to drop the motor in and see what kind of clearance issues i am going to have. It didnt take long to notice the front ifs axle is going to be an issue with the oil pan. The 22re block is 23 1/2" long from the crank pulley to the back of the block and the vw is 18". From the pics I've posted you can see that the head and plumbing on the back of the motor hits the firewall before the trans will bolt to the block. I believe i am going to have to move the drivetrain forward. I'm slowly starting to regret no using an AEB. Ive got issues with the oil filter housing so i plan on having to relocate that. I also bought an AEB exhaust manifold and turbo exhaust housing i need to check to see if this setup will work with my s turbo. i would have pick one up at the junk but they were all blown. I'll keep this thread current with pics and details.
Please feel free to post any concerns, questions or ideas.
we shall see how this works out... I think with alittle redneck enginuity some trial and error i can have this done before the world ends.
Heres how this really started... I needed a clutch and the current 22re was burning oil like an oil tanker fire. i had an extra engine laying around with low lieage so i figured i remove and replace. Everything was great for the first 100 miles then I blew a head gasket.:mad: Sooo I started from scratch. I bought a new head and timing chain kit water/oil pump and pick up tube... I replaced everything but the bottom end. I drove it for about 600-700 miles and I either spun a bearing or broke a rod. So I go throwing more money away, should be worth it when its all said and done.
Parts to start swap:
AWP complete engine harnes and ecu $700
Acme adapter for TDI to W56 toyota trans w/ flywheel modified for vw crank and pilot bushing$600
factory toyota clutch $150
AEB turbo exhaust housing $15 from junk yard
AEB fuel rail $15 from junk yard
Innovative engineering timing belt and water pump kit with mechanical tensioner $250
Gas pedal and wiring for use of drive by wire $20 from junk yard
Yesterday I removed the old engine and installed the adapter and clutch. Today i was planning to drop the motor in and see what kind of clearance issues i am going to have. It didnt take long to notice the front ifs axle is going to be an issue with the oil pan. The 22re block is 23 1/2" long from the crank pulley to the back of the block and the vw is 18". From the pics I've posted you can see that the head and plumbing on the back of the motor hits the firewall before the trans will bolt to the block. I believe i am going to have to move the drivetrain forward. I'm slowly starting to regret no using an AEB. Ive got issues with the oil filter housing so i plan on having to relocate that. I also bought an AEB exhaust manifold and turbo exhaust housing i need to check to see if this setup will work with my s turbo. i would have pick one up at the junk but they were all blown. I'll keep this thread current with pics and details.
Please feel free to post any concerns, questions or ideas.
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1 ton winnebago (01-15-2023)
08-14-2011, 06:23 AM
#5
Today I'll be moving the drive train forward a few inches. The Coolant plumbing sticks out about 3" off the back of the head and hits the firewal before the trans mates. I wanted to rebuild the drive shaft and have them balanced anyway so why not lengthen/shorten rear/front. The other good think is im trying to use the factory motor mounts just have to fab a bracket for the block. With the AEB exhaust housing it will give me a rear exhaust dumb instead of out the side, also the intake will be moved to the fron instead of the firewall.
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