sas'd22re

i have a fairly fresh 22re (6000kms) with o/s stainless valves, an rv cam and full rebuild kit. the motor runs great, but i still would like more power. ive been thinking about starting to collect parts to do a 7mge swap and when i have all of the parts ill do the swap as im not in dire need to do it. would the 7mge do the trick???......i have a sas'd 86 extra cab with 33"s, 4.88's. with the extra power and torque of the 7mge, do you think i would be able to run 35"s or 36"s and my 4.88's? i'd like to keep it all toyota, so im not doing a 350 or 5.0 swap

934rnr

Should turn those tires no problem with a 7mge. Your going from 115 hp with a 22re to 200 hp with a 7mge. Gearing sounds fine. 4.88's or 4.56's is a good match for a 7mge.

sas'd22re

Awsome, that's what I was thinking too. I definatly want to run 35"s or 36"s and didn't want to do the swap all for nothing. And yea, ill pretty much be doubling my horsepower andhave about 75ftlbs or torque so my 4.88's should be good. Thanks for the input

algranger

I was thinking about a 7m swap but i've been told you get very poor oil delivery off camber... it was something about the makeup of the oil pan i think

gennro

Yes, its a very shallow oil pan and pickup. So off chamber situations could starve the engine of oil very quickly.

UKMyers

Most people do a custom pan for that swap for that reason.

algranger

Do you know what oil pan they run?

sas'd22re

yea, which oil pan would be the one to use? im sure there are a few aftermarket ones out there. i have a metal fab friend that would make one for me.....just leave the flange/bolt pattern and an inch of metal all the way around and make the rest from sheet metal....wouldnt be too hard. what would you do about the sump...just get a deeper one from a??? or does the 7mge just not get enough oil off chamber no matter what? i dont know a ton about the 7mge motors....still have lots of reading to do on them so please bear with me

ckblum

Does anyone have any more info on this? The oil pan issues and stuff? Considering some engine swaps in the near future so just trying to do some research.

Adam F

read through http://www.supracharged.com/

sas'd22re

i found a complete 89 supra with a fairly low km motor (the body is starting to go so its cheap) and i want to throw it in my truck. donor car is an auto. is this going to be a big deal in the swap? i know i havbe to swap the bellhousing and clutch related parts from an earlier supra, im just wondering about the car being an auto being an issue.
thanks

ckblum

I found a Cressida for cheap. Are the Cressida's oil pan and stuff better for swapping into a stock 22re IFS truck? Can I used my 5 speed tranny? The car comes with an auto but I really wanna keep the 5 speed. Do the newer 6 speed trannies in the Tacoma's bolt up to 7mge's cause I found one for a decent price too.

ilovemyz

I will warn you any info you find on the internet is either bad info or a swap for a 2wd truck...ive done the 7mgte swap got pics posted up on here. It will fit without modding the front core support. Also be careful of your bell housing selection i needed to have a bell fabbed back half of the truck bell and front half of the r154 bell out of the supra needed to weld 2 throw out bearings together to get enough reach to accomodate the input shaft properly. My isue now is finding a clutch hydraulic system stout enough to depress the clutch pressure plate. Literally everything has to be fabricated, you will also need to keep the motor as close to the firewall as possible unless you want to cut the front core support and will need electric fans with a supra radiator. As far as oil presure goes, if you shim the oil pump spring with 3mm of washers you can bump your oil pressure up about 10-15 psi at idle which is good if your crawling like me. Motor mount brackets will need to be fabbed or cut off the frame and slid back about 5.5-6 inches due to the difference in location of mount points on the engine blocks. I mated the front half of the supra drive shaft with the rear section of the truck driveshaft at the carrier bearing - had to alter the carrier bearing and trans mounts also to accomodate the difference in engine mounting location. Power steering lines heater hoses, electric fuel pump the whole nine will need to be fabbed, the supra/cressida fuel pump will not fit in the opening for the fuel pickup in the tank. Inline trick flow from summit is what you will need and frame mount it. A/c compressor needs to go, it hits the frame on the drivers side. My motor is in and runs but cant drive the truck until i can get a stronger clutch hydraulic system from either a tundra if it will even work or an n/a slave cylinder from a supra n/a. Thats the last thing i need to do but i'll be honest its a real mofo and would not recomend anybody try it. I'm ase master and lexus certified technician and its been kicking my balls for 4 months. Lots of metal fab getting it in. ilovemyz@hotmail is my email i'm not on here much but if you have any questions ask. I got alot of bogus info from the websites some of these guys have up on the web spent alot more money than i needed to and wasted a ton of my time in the process

ckblum

Thanks for the info, I actually really appreciate and I think that officially turns me off any Supra engine swaps haha. I'm just gonna buy a Taco with the 3.4 in it, spend the money on the suspension instead of doing suspension and engine to my old truck. Not to mention less rust too.

ilovemyz

yeah i mean if you have your gearing right 100hp out of a 4cyl is fine, my 22r never gave me any problems crawling but i moved to texas so im gonna get into desert racing i think more than rock crawling so thats the route i decided to go, get a beast motor, its just been a huge pain in the balls

ckblum

Yea I don't really crawl either, more into trails and desert. But my motor is plenty for my suspension anyways, especially if I regear it I still don't think I'd ever use 5th.

Cyrus

I dont know what ilovemyz did, but he has no clue on what he did wrong. TO set the record straight. a 7mge or 7mgte are the same block, on a toyota ifs rig you need the cressida front sump oil pan (or a custom one) to clear the cross member, on a solid axle you can use any oil pan.

Second on the early 80's toyotas which were 3" shorter in the nose you may have to cut the core support, on my 87 it fit perfectly even with a 3row radiator i just put pusher fans behind the grill, no problems.

Now for both the 7mge and 7mgte they will bolt up 100% to the 5spd. Go get the bell housing from a 7mge n/a 5spd supra. no cross member moving on supracharged.com and on here https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f161...-supra-162638/ there are 2 spots on the firewall you massage with a 5lb hammer so your egr does not rub and your heater core hose does not rub. You can get the motor in there for a test fit they will be obvious where they touch and you can pull it back out and do the hammering. The second part, go get the stamped steel 5m motor mounts from the early cresidas (*not the aluminum ones they are diffrent) the 7m have 6 holes on the sides for motor mounts and the 5m mounts bolt to the front 4, and lign up perfectly to the 22re mounts. I added a 1/8" shim washer to the motor mount when installing so the pan did not rub the cross member.

Wireing is way easy too, there are litteraly 3 wires and then some sensors. Supra Charged has the diagrams, i made a little adaptor from the 22re body to the 7m motor and it is plug and play now in my truck.


My swap took 4 days after work in the evenings. And if i did it again probably only 2. The best advice i can give is go get a donor 7m n/a supra or find one at the junk yard, and with the bell housing take the slave, and the line all the way back to the clutch cylinder it is already bent perfectly to hook up. Also the only hard part is the exhaust. on the forum this guy had it right
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f161...-supra-162638/
but it is way easy to again test fit it, make some measurements and marks on your oil pan, and pull it out to fab the cross over. I did mine while installed, and ended up having to pull the whole motor again anyways to get the final welds on because there is not enough room to remove the pipe once welded up.


The 7m lets my 87 with 32" and stock 4.11's pull a 3klb twin axle trailer 75+ with ease. It runs so smooth and has given me 0 problems with the swap.

87hilux7mgze

prolly thread revival, but oh well.

im about 1-2 months away from finishing my swap. i fully rebuilt my motor and did some mods to it.

heres how it works. the 5m and 7m motors will bolt directly into 85+ 4 cylinder trucks if you use the w56 transmission. you must use 5m motor mount brackets with the 22r rubber mount biscuit. it will fit in the engine bay without modification, but you only have about 3/4"-1" of clearance from the radiator. that is why modifying the core support is popular. ive also seen the balancer have the A/C ring machined off to create clearance.

in a v6 truck you need to fabricate motor mounts, because they are not located in the same spot as the 4 cyl mounts. you also have to fabricate a custom bellhousing, because even though the r154 bellhousing will bolt to an r150/151f transmission, the input shaft length is longer on the 4x4 trannies.

as for the oil pan, a mid sump pan must be modified to clear IFS unless you have a significant body lift (2"+) and a front sump pan will clear IFS with the steering stabilizer removed, but it is VERY close to the cross member and diff. with a SA you can use either pan, but keep in mind that in off-axis situations, a front sump pan is not ideal, nor is a mid sump. i am custom making a baffled and trap doored rear sump pan to clear the ifs diff, and it will hold approximately 6-7 quarts.

the 7m is a great swap candidate, the power output is impressive in a truck, as well as the gas mileage. there are several people i know that run 35" tires and up to 5.29 gears that are still knocking down 20-21 mpg. i believe this is related to the particular rpm range the 7m likes to operate in.

i will have the motor in and running by the end of next month, running off megasquirtII in speed density/MAP setup, with individual coil packs, a lightly ported head, adjustable cam gears, header, custom exhaust and intake setup. i expect to see about 165-175 hp at the wheels through a rebuilt w56 and stock 4.10 gears with 32-33" tall tires.

i have an eaton m90 supercharger that i plan on fabricating a system for and running around 5# of boost (my compression is 9.58:1). after i get the system fabbed and tuned, ill be building a high-boost spec block from a GTE block and head.

on boost, with this first motor and low boost setting i expect to see about 300 hp at the crank, around 260 at the wheels.

with the high boost block and running 15-18 lbs i expect about 350-370 hp and 310-325 at the wheels.

i have a plethora of information dealing with these swaps, and id be happy to answer questions. the only area i havent focused on is the stock harness wiring into a truck harness, as i see it as an inferior setup. but as for the working of the 7m motor, ive spent hundreds of hours researching it and am fairly knowledgeable.

good luck if you choose to do this swap, i think its among some of the best swap candidates, next to a 1uz/2uz (they are just more involved and require more fabrication, but the power and mileage are just as impressive if not more-so than the M series motors.)

ToyotaDude

Agreed with 87Hilux on the candidates. The 7M and the UZ was my 2 choices. I just stumbled on a good deal with the 7M, about 1-2weeks out to finishing the Runner. Hopefully gonna fire her up tonight!

87hilux7mgze

very nice man. post some pics when your done, or hell some as she sits