JBM715 has a flywheel for me

ordered the LCE adjustable cam gear... the black one for $90

And I'm going to go with some sealed power pistons... cheap set but they look like just what I need. Anyone use them? Pros/Cons? I like the idea of cast pistons, because of the heat distribution and the sealing factor.

Machine Shop is gonna charge me $185 for the balance job on the crank. $115 for the regrind/polishing. and another $115 for the block machining.

can't wait for the parts to hit my doorstep.

 

almost forgot.... Some of the other parts I already have...

261 C Crawler cam
stock 22re head '85 year
nitrided valves (stock diameter)

I think while I have the old engine apart I'm going to port the head myself. (save a few bucks)

<------- Certified machinist

only for tool parts and things of the like. I never did the automotive machine courses

 

sounds really interesting, to bad you cant get dyno numbers before and after.

 

Yeah I know, Dyno would be nice.

Really not a lot of upgrades to the stock motor before it blew, though. Just had the head done 350 mi. before I shot #3 rod through the drivers side of the block. I do know however that the Crawler cam (at least for me) was a huge torque improvement on the stock motor.

So that, plus all the other little goodies I plan on, I should be able to climb straight up a brick wall Just kidding, but not really

 

What is the total cost looking to come to?

 

well lets see...numbers so far

'84 block and timing cover... $200
3RZ crank and connecting rods... $225
original head machining and parts... $350
adjustable cam gear... $90

total so far... $865



Machining new pin bushings... $125 ($100/hr minimum+material)
Timing set... $44 parts dinosaur $12.50 gasket set rockauto
Pistons... $100 set of 4 cast sealed power choose size
Rings... $50 full set of moly rings from sealed power


need to find better prices on bearing sets for the 3RZ

 

Oh yeah...

If this really works out ill get the machine shop to make a run of the pin bushings...

price to be determined...


if that truly is the "ONE*" part to make it go then this could be a good deal.

22r block and 22re pistons OR 22re block AND pistons with a ($$$) super head gasket.

 

subscribed...this is an interesting idea...just be sure to document it all so when something goes wrong it doesn't take months to get it going again...

 

AND truly i can't take credit for this "Idea" Sundowner over at pirate 4x4 started me thinking about the real ins and outs of it... I Blame him

 

Used flywheel... $75 (found on yota tech forum classified's )

 

Ok just ran into a small snag... but it will be fine...

rear main seals...

3RZ:
Shaft Size: 3.465"; Housing Bore: 4.173"; Seal Width: 0.335"; Seal Outside Dia: 4.184"; Seal Lip Material: FluoroElastomer; Housing Material: Steel; Max Temp: 400°F; Min Temp: -40°F; Seal Type: 320; Press Fit
Rear

22r/re:
{#9031180004} Bore=3.946"; Width=.335"; Shaft=3.150"; Outside diameter=3.9520IN


but I will have the machine shop neck down the 3rz seal surface to match...

the snouts/front seem to be the same... harder to find the specs but here they are

22r/re:
Shaft Size: 1.772"; Housing Bore: 2.677"; Seal Width: 0.472"; Seal Outside Dia: 2.685"; Seal Lip Material: Nitrile; Housing Material: Steel; Max Temp: 225°F; Min Temp: -40°F; Seal Type: 320; Press Fit


3RZ:
Inside Diameter (Inches): 1.89
Inside Diameter (Millimeters): 48
Overall Outer Outside Diameter (Inches): 0
Overall Outer Outside Diameter (Millimeters): 0
Thickness (Inches): 0.433
Thickness (Millimeters): 11
Outside Diameter (Inches): 2.689
Outside Diameter (Millimeters): 68.3

 

sorry for the super over sized fonts... was trying for a little bit and went to big :o(

 

Ok Crank and rods came in just now.....

looks like i will have to get the crank seal plate machined out for the 3RZ seal...

not enough clearance from bolt hole to edge of seal surface to machine out....

still looks do able...

need to pull my old motor out to check on some other things.

 

Looking at the Main seal housing, there should be enough to get it machined out and still have a little meat left to hold it in place... but not a whole lot...

may have to go down to the napa and look through their paper catalog and get some thing by spec.... same shaft size but reduced outer diameter... I don"t know about that one though...

usually the seal companies require about a 1/4 inch over shaft size (give or take a little) for the seal spring and steel and all that stuff.

may be find one thats more like an O-Ring with a steel backing plate on it

 

found a good seal but rock auto only had one...



Part Number Part Type Price EA Core EA Quantity Total
0 No Vehicle Specified
SKF 34663 Crankshaft Seal $ 11.53 $ 0.00 1 $ 11.53
Shipping Priority Mail $ 5.25
Order Total $ 16.78

 

and with that seal the housing needs trimmed out .100"

plenty of room for that on the housing and still retain some meat.

 

thanks for keep us up to date with the details.

 

Went to go get the block today...

Drove 2.5 hrs. and the block they had was the wrong one... the laser block

but luckily the yard down the street from them had a whole engine for the same price

I need to tear it apart and see which parts are still good... anyone need some 22R engine parts?

 

Next order of business...

submitted the conn. rod to the machinist to make the new bushings... another small snag

needed to find out the Grade of bronze to use... turns out I found it online, at a metallurgy site of all places. SAE 660 bronze... not cheap by the pound...

but I found on the same search a place that sells the "bars" for a decent price

Hole cored bronze .5 in. ID by 1-1.75 in. OD in lengths for $26 and up depending on OD and Length

So anyone else interested in doing this? I'm gonna have 8 of them made to start, just incase someone else wishes to join me in this madness

 

If it works out, I am sure more than one will join you.