Xyphus42

Well, i got the block and it is good.

The crank I "ordered" on the other hand is not... they sent me the 2RZ instead of the 3RZ

So I will have to wait until I get the proper crank to look at clearances and what not.

One thing that does have me a little worried...

I test fitted the 2RZ in the '81-'82 block and the thrust washer journal was fine (#3) minus washers of course. The early blocks had massive thrust washer thicknesses. So I took one of the 2RZ rods and the 22R piston and shoved them in there. That is how I actually found that the crank was from a 2RZ, short stroke (86mm). But when I did that the rod was jammed up against the pin boss to one side of the piston, only on #1 and #4.

I'm wondering if a small offset will harm the piston or cylinder wall, as long as the rod is straight and true. And if the pin bosses and pin bushing will hold it straight during travel.

I'm unsure if this will work or not because of that. Then again I will have to really "SEE" when the 3RZ crank gets here.

Also....

I tested the snout on the crank and the timing gear will work perfect.
The other things like the oil pump sleeve and the harmonic balancer do not, at least from the '81-82 engine. The snout is actually necked down on the 22R crank, just after the timing gear race. The 2RZ also only has two key ways where the 22R has three. Both of those things are quite an easy fix when I have the crank machined and balanced.

The journals of #1 and #5, on the 2RZ, are actually quite wide in comparison to the 22R. That is also fixable during machining as well. Well, not the width so much as the placement of the oil holes. I will have it chamfered and re-drilled, in offset, to place the holes back in center line to the block journals.


Well, all that said, this is no mere easy drop in thing. You have to pay to play, as they say.

I'm way past the point of no return now. :wabbit2:

Xyphus42

Excerpt from: http://kb-silvolite.com/article.php?action=read&A_id=54


"Now if the effective center of the crankthrow does not coincide exactly with the centerline of the cylinder, the rod exerts a continuous axial pressure on the pin forcing it to bear against only one of the lockrings. Rotation of the pin against only one lockring wears both the end of the pin and inside edge of the lockring. In such cases the evidence points primarily to wear rather than pounding, although the outer edge of the lockring groove may still be upset."


So it can still work but it may cause some trouble down the road.

Bojangles

I love this idea!

Ive been wanting to do something of this nature for a while...

Curious to see how it turns out.

nater94

damn this is sick. keep us updated, love the diy engineering projects

Xyphus42

Ok, I did a little more checking crank to crank and the bore spacing...

seems it was just the extreme play I had in the wrist pins and crank mains...

I don't have the right parts in yet but the spacing seems much closer then my first mock up, at least by measurements.

also during that initial mock up I noticed the 2RZ pistons have NO SKIRT!

during the balance process I will have to get the skirts notched to clear the weights.

easy enough.

Xyphus42

Ok not exactly related to this topic but I ordered the tools for cam timing from summit racing... they sure are proud of their stuff

While I was at it I bought a boost/vacuum gauge.

I had a very ingenious idea a while back before the motor blew up...


Take a VERY large Turbo from a junked out diesel and chop it up, to put an electric motor drive on it.

Well i have just that sitting in my garage...

It came out of a Ford Flatbed tank hauler... I don't know the size but this thing is massive, probably 6-7 in. in diameter.

I also have an old 2 wire electric fan motor from a really old car that I hooked up to it. I would guess that it pumps around 350 cfm's on a full 12v.

Now I'm not totally dee dee dee so I'm not going to hook it up with straight power....

Going to put a rheostat on the throttle linkage and an arming switch.

So all I have to do is adjust the amount of voltage power by the throttle position.

Hence the boost/vacuum guage. Start small, 1-2 psi and go up from there.

I opted for the super sized turbo for 2 reasons...

the electric motor can not possibly spin up to actual turbo RPM's

and I would like to be able to turn it off and on with out very much air restriction.

dark_fairytales

not to burst your bubble, but all that set up will do is cause intake restriction. at just a few thousand RPM's of motor rotation. The engine draws in thousands of feet of air a minute.

Xyphus42

Hmmm....



I think the "thousands" is just a little bit of an exaggeration...

Think about the ratings on holley carbs and weber carbs... They are rated in CFM's

A 650 double pumper for example (very nice carb by the way, have one on my 350 chevy) only flows 650 cubic feet per minute *CFM*

the maximum/optimum flow rate on any 4 cylinder is around 200-350 cfm depending on displacement.



looking at a bunch of the calculators on the web I found a *best case* scenario...


Conversions:
CID = 154.152 = 154.152
RPM = 5000 = 5000
VE = 1.44 = 1.44

Solution:
air flow rate = 321.15 foot^3/minute (CFM)


the point of a turbo is to over come the standard flow of natural aspiration and once you have, you start to build pressure.

I do understand that the electric motor will not be able to spin up to the high rpm's of the standard turbo hook up. But by increasing the size of the turbo I don't have to spin as fast to achieve the same amounts of airflow. A desk fan versus a box fan... they both spin at the same rpm's but which one has more pressure? The box fan of course because the blades are larger and able to effect more air.

ok rant off....

Xyphus42

I got the 3RZ crank in .... this just flat out will not work.


the rear main seal on the 3rz is just wayyyyy to thin....

the main journals are tooo wide on the 3RZ which sends cylinders #1 and #4 about 3/8" off center in opposing directions, when the rods are connected.

to top that off the snout is just too thin when it would be ground down to accept the harmonic balancer/oil pump sleeve. :wabbit2:

i-wanna-go-fast

how far off center were they exactly?