Starting the process of the SAS...
#61
Keep up with the pics
#62
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From: Holly Springs, North Carolina
done for the evening
well i got both knuckles on and ready to go and the shock hoops painted most of the way except for the part that is going to be welded. spent the rest of the time admiring how crappy it looked when i picked her up and how good she looks now hahaha






#63
I'm at the same point you are in the pics, except my spring perch is welded on. I got the hubs all greased for the bearings, but my dumb ass threw out the washers and hub nuts, so I had to order some overnight
#64
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its all good man yeah i gotta go and buy a 3lb sledge cuz a nail hammer can't cut it anymore the new wheel studs need some force then ill get the bearings and the rest of it together i figure i misewell take my time since i have it for now...
amazing how bad it can look and how purty we can make em
amazing how bad it can look and how purty we can make em
#65
yeah you'll need a 3lb sledge AT LEAST....definitely need a brass drift, some center punches, etc.
Get a big breaker bar for the disassembly of the upper a-arm and torsion bar.
BTW....loosen the torsion bar as much as you can, then un bolt it from the a-arm. Then, disconnect the upper arm from the ball joint, and remove the 3 bolts holding the a-arm in place. You should be able to slide it off the torsion bar and remove it. Then the end thing that bolts to the arm on the torsion bar comes off, so you can slide that thing out.
As for the lower crap, just CUT IT, lol. Saves a TON of time. Make sure you're either cutting the diff mounts or unbolting the diff from all that first. Even using the Sawzall, I went through like 4 cutting wheels and 3 grinding wheels. And I used the Sawzall extensively.
Get a big breaker bar for the disassembly of the upper a-arm and torsion bar.
BTW....loosen the torsion bar as much as you can, then un bolt it from the a-arm. Then, disconnect the upper arm from the ball joint, and remove the 3 bolts holding the a-arm in place. You should be able to slide it off the torsion bar and remove it. Then the end thing that bolts to the arm on the torsion bar comes off, so you can slide that thing out.
As for the lower crap, just CUT IT, lol. Saves a TON of time. Make sure you're either cutting the diff mounts or unbolting the diff from all that first. Even using the Sawzall, I went through like 4 cutting wheels and 3 grinding wheels. And I used the Sawzall extensively.
#66
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From: Holly Springs, North Carolina
hopefully me and jeremy can rent a plasma cutter cuz thats what he used and he said it took like 15 min to cut everything out but if not i still get to take my frustration out on my IFS by cutting the crap out of it hahahah
#67
Plasma or a torch is the way to go. Don't bother unbolting anything you aren't keeping, its a waste of time. You should be able to make short work of the tear down. The grinding takes a little while though. Then start throwing everything on...
#68
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heck yeah man im excited i just have to see when this guy can weld my hanger and cut the holes hopefully the end of this week and hopefully monday i can get the SAS on and the rear lift on and its done for now....
#72
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yeah a 4" pro comp panhard which is perfect because the angle its at now without a panhard is just ok to not hit the tank with 3" of lift so another 4" with the 4" panhard will keep it at the same angle hahah thank god cuz i dont feel beating the crap out of my gas tank hehe
#79
well, for one, on the ring gear it could cause some unnecessary heat in there, and the gaskets and stuff on the knuckes....generally it's safer to weld all that stuff on before assembling it.
#80
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From: Holly Springs, North Carolina
Hanger is welded
Got the hanger done today my brothers friends brother owns a meineke so i got it done on a 220V MIG welder for free which was nice hahaha anyway he did an OK job its deffinetly not going anywhere thats for sure.




