hahaha yeah breaking down your axle today was fun man it will be close to the same thing as to what im doin and your exactly right doing it in steps is cool theres nothin wrong my middle finger still hurts like a biatch from diff slipping but eh oh well good times i can't wait to get this SAS started!!!

 

I ran 35s and no front locker for several years on stock birfields. Never had any problems. Wait until you get a front locker, then put Longfields in.

The most important part of a stock Toy axle housing to be trussed is the outter balls, where they connect to the housing. Trail Gear has a good truss for this.

BTW - Even the more affordable, 27 spline Longfields are very strong.

 

yeah thats another thing to think about i forgot about that good call but im goin down tonight at 630 to check out this 85 axle if its straight it'll be at my house and ill have pics tonight im excited as hell right now hahaha

 

ok here some pics of the 85 axle so far i have the tie rod off and the cover of the aisin hubs but those flippin hubs aren't budgin one bit ive tried every technique that ive searched: hitting the stuff with a drift, hitting hte cone washer with flat head screw driver. Im damaging the washer and yet the cone washers aren't moving i dont' get it and its really pissing me off now after 4 hours of trying everything can anybody shed any light on this????

 

Hit it harder ! Don't be too concerned with dinging the housing. You won't hurt it if you hit it in the right place. That rubber hammer is a little weanie excuse for a hammer. Get a bigger one. If it still isn't coming off get a brass punch and a sledge and you can really wail on it.

you could try some of that rusted/corroded bolt loosening stuff, the name escapes me but someone else will remember. If I was at the auto parts store I'd know it when i saw it !

 

well i got the hubs out which were a huge biatch with those dang cone washers i have the differential out and both axles which both birfields look brand new so i think they were replaced not too long ago besides the hubs being hard to get off everything look very good.. heres some pics

 

you can go ahead and torch the torque arm mount off before you get to cleaning the housing...

 

yeah that big ole thing is comin off tonight and the steering stablizer mounts as well so it looks nice and clean. cleanin this thing is a biatch but its coming out good i have to take a torch to the housing because when it was in use the tie rod bashed into the housing creating a dent so ill heat it up and punch it back out again ill have more pics of the progress tonight...well i cut of the torque arm and im done for the night im gonna cut off the steering stabalizer mounts tomorrow and grind it all smooth heres some pics of it just bare axle housing...

 

well worked on the axle for about an hour this morning before i go to work but i got the steering stabilizer mounts cut off and grinded down nice and smooth heres some pics....

 

well i heated up the dent in the case and hit the living crap out of it to get it out and then i primed and painted it






tomorrow im taking the ring and pinion out and cleaning the housing then in a couple weeks ill have the ring and pinion along with the rebuild kit.

 

well i just ordered OME 863 rear coils along with the procomp 4'' panhard drop bracket. I also ordered the SAS 4" kit w/ 5150 shocks from wabbit really good guy i deffinetly recommend ordering anything you need from that guy!! Anyway once all these parts come my way ill post up some pics and the SAS should be on the truck in about 2-3 weeks so ill keep you updated.

The SAS kit comes tuesday!! haha
But.....the 863 coils are backordered 2 weeks that will give me time to get my axle just right for the swap and get everything that i can pre weld welded so that swap day is easier.

 

I recomend getting the rear upper and lower links from AllPro. The upper ones are adjustable so you can dial in the pinion angle to a certain extend. The lower arms are longer than stock so it moves the axle back a little. The higher the lift, the more it moves toward the front.
or just put leaf springs in the back.

You also want use front drive shaft for the rear. It's a double cardan joint on one end which will eliminate the vibration as well as reducing the scraping of the gastank. You'll need the output flange from the front of the t-case also or drill new holes to accept the front d-shaft.

 

yeah ill do that as soon as i get more money im not takin her wheelin anytime soon because im puttin the SAS and rear lift on without a new front driveshaft, gears, and axles so she'll be on the street till fall. the 4" panhard should help in the mean time but as soon as i get the driveshaft and gears ill start getting the lower and upper links. It all depends after i get my front takin care of whether im going to save up for a rear leaf conversion or not because the cost of the lower and upper links is as much as a rear leaf conversion so im putting serious thought into it. Decisions, Decisions, Decisions......

 

just noticed that HUGE dent in the housing for the ring gear...you might want to take a large brass drift and hammer that out a little bit.

My SAS takes place this weekend. Actually, I'm gonna start reassembling the axle tonight and yank off the front wheels and brake calipers on my runner to swap over to the axle in preparation.

 

sky has a great diff guard for 35 bucks. totally worth the price for the time saved. just weld it on and you don't have to worry as much about dents. I will be rocking one on my front axle as well as a $25 gusset and $29 knuckle ball kit from marlin. Marlin also carries everything you need to rebuild your front axle...

 

chimmike as you were reading my thread you would have also read and saw in the thread below it where i already hammered it out but thanks...

44runner yeah the TG kit comes with the plate that welds on the front but the larger one you are talking about is pretty badass im still thinking of getting it anyway just for the added protection but shes gonna be on the street for awhile so i have time to figure out what im doin. Money is slim right now thats why i wanted to get the major part of it done then do the small chunks as i go along since this is my DD getting driveable after my SAS is most important.

 

Looks like a good start...but you have a long way to go

I run the TG large diff cover front and rear...you cant beat it for $29.00

 

yeah the dent was smoothed out awhile ago theres just inperfections when light hits hit. The SAS kit comes tuesday and my 863's come in on wednesday but they are already in Raleigh so i doubt they are gonna hold them for 5 days to deliver them to my house. But tuesday i should be able to get my axle back together and then me and jeremy can weld the hanger and ill drill out the holes needed for the shackles next week. in the next couple of weeks it should be on my truck but i want to take my time on the axle so i get it right the first time.

 

That is a good idea. Take your time and do it right. When I was rebuilding mine, I did not set the trunion bearing preload right which ended in me having to rebuild it again. Good luck with the SAS. It is definitely worth while.

 

What welder did yall use or did you get a shope to weld your front hanger??