SAS'd now.... going with 60's
#24
1 or 0" backspacing?
Great tech there.
Arctic trucks don't rock crawl, Longfields do.
This whole thread is not giving a fair shake to the Toy stuff and everyone who reads it will get lost.
For what people NORMALLY pay for HP 60's, it would be cheaper and stronger to use a Diamond fron with 30 spline Longfields.
What you are building will be wider and stronger than what you have, but not stronger than what you could have in a Toyota axle.
Great tech there.
Arctic trucks don't rock crawl, Longfields do.
This whole thread is not giving a fair shake to the Toy stuff and everyone who reads it will get lost.
For what people NORMALLY pay for HP 60's, it would be cheaper and stronger to use a Diamond fron with 30 spline Longfields.
What you are building will be wider and stronger than what you have, but not stronger than what you could have in a Toyota axle.
#25
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From: Race City USA (Mooresville, NC - LKN)
but I'm going with 60's
#26
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From: Race City USA (Mooresville, NC - LKN)
well I have been debating which axles to go with for about 6 months.....
my buddy with Rocks had me convinced to use those (cost) since they are already geared. been researching them for a few months now even sourced a set. I have a set in a junkyard for $600 but I am not sure of the front since the 3rd sits soo high. Not a problem for the rear but it is for the front since I wanna keep the leafs for now ($$ for a 4-link & Shocks)
So I decided to pull that 60 sitting next door but it actually ended up being a 14 Bolt FF with 4.10's. I am gonna run this and a Chevy 60 short side narrowed 3".
got the rear ready for my brackets and have made them all. The C/O mounts I might buy from Ballistic Fab
my buddy with Rocks had me convinced to use those (cost) since they are already geared. been researching them for a few months now even sourced a set. I have a set in a junkyard for $600 but I am not sure of the front since the 3rd sits soo high. Not a problem for the rear but it is for the front since I wanna keep the leafs for now ($$ for a 4-link & Shocks)
So I decided to pull that 60 sitting next door but it actually ended up being a 14 Bolt FF with 4.10's. I am gonna run this and a Chevy 60 short side narrowed 3".
got the rear ready for my brackets and have made them all. The C/O mounts I might buy from Ballistic Fab
#27
1 or 0" backspacing?
Great tech there.
Arctic trucks don't rock crawl, Longfields do.
This whole thread is not giving a fair shake to the Toy stuff and everyone who reads it will get lost.
For what people NORMALLY pay for HP 60's, it would be cheaper and stronger to use a Diamond fron with 30 spline Longfields.
What you are building will be wider and stronger than what you have, but not stronger than what you could have in a Toyota axle.
Great tech there.
Arctic trucks don't rock crawl, Longfields do.
This whole thread is not giving a fair shake to the Toy stuff and everyone who reads it will get lost.
For what people NORMALLY pay for HP 60's, it would be cheaper and stronger to use a Diamond fron with 30 spline Longfields.
What you are building will be wider and stronger than what you have, but not stronger than what you could have in a Toyota axle.
dude if you hate your toyota truck so much, sell it and go buy a ford and beat the crap out of that, get a 78-79 f350, I hear they are real cheap and easy to find.....
#28
Doesn't sound like a Toyota hater at all, just sounds like a guy trying to have fun on a budget, at least he's wheelin' and buildin' and not working too many hours and doing more web-wheelin' than real wheelin'
.....like I am!
.....like I am!
#29
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From: Race City USA (Mooresville, NC - LKN)
FJ80 axles cost too much.
#33
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From: Race City USA (Mooresville, NC - LKN)
swapped the 16" Fox coilovers for some 18" Fox Air Shox.
they look a little plain but at least they are bigger.
Cut off my front AllPro hanger and built a new one, using part of the old one and some 2x2x.250 for FW 31.5" center to center. It has a 2" drop compared to the AllPro hanger. but no pics yet
Redid my lower link mounts using Ballistic Fab brackets along with some Ballistic Fab C/O and Lower Link mounts.
Also sleeved (again) my lowers, they are 1.5x.250 DOM, sleeved with 1.75x.120 DOM, now sleeved with 2x.120 DOM = 2x.5 DOM...... yep 1/2" thick they are monsters.
Also rear driveshaft is finished.... I hate needle bearings



they look a little plain but at least they are bigger.
Cut off my front AllPro hanger and built a new one, using part of the old one and some 2x2x.250 for FW 31.5" center to center. It has a 2" drop compared to the AllPro hanger. but no pics yet
Redid my lower link mounts using Ballistic Fab brackets along with some Ballistic Fab C/O and Lower Link mounts.
Also sleeved (again) my lowers, they are 1.5x.250 DOM, sleeved with 1.75x.120 DOM, now sleeved with 2x.120 DOM = 2x.5 DOM...... yep 1/2" thick they are monsters.
Also rear driveshaft is finished.... I hate needle bearings



Last edited by customcruiser; Jan 31, 2008 at 06:53 PM.
#34
Where are you getting your leafs? I am wondering if I can use the toyota leafs or should I get some others? I am building my own hangar, just looking at leafs, got a pair of dana 60's from a friend for free
can't beat that.
can't beat that.
#35
I like how the back is cut. got any more pics of it? I think its a bit much to cut but it still looks good from what ive seen in the pics you have
#36
Dana60s with 40s under a full bodied yota is possible... even the newer models. I have seen this setup with the glass fenders and they work like a charm. I'm not 100% sure what he did to achieve this but I could see if I can find out...
Last edited by turboale; Feb 25, 2008 at 10:25 PM.
#37
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From: Race City USA (Mooresville, NC - LKN)
here are my build pics
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=551869
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=551869




Who in there right mind would put a HEEP bezel on a Toyota?



