well birfields sux.... weak ass hell.

Im going with full width 60's

I want hi-pinion in the front and only DS drop (Fords) 60's are hi-pinion and i cant afford custom dynatrac axles.

What I really wanna do is put dual hi-pinion 60's only one steerable but.....

If I use a Dodge or Chevy, 1 of 2 things have to happen...
(1) Cut off my front hanger and make an extended one, then make custom shackles
(2) Shorten the long side 3"-4"
Using a Dodge or Chevy is the easy way out

or......

Use a Ford Hi-Pinion 60 and Retube taking 3"-4" off the LS then using the std shortside Chevy/Dodge shafts and having the LS axle shaft cut and resplined.
WMS to WMS 65"-66" and maybe use spacers to match the rear.

I got a free 60 rear from my neighbor, need to get the WMS to WMS. So thats going in the back for now then somtime i will retube a front ford 60 to stock or maybe 3"-4" less to match the front. Or retube it to dually width so I can use those shafts.

any ideas?? or anyone done this??

also how much should I expect to get for my current setup??
Front Axle w/gusset...
-- AllPro Hi-Steer
-- 4.88 Welded Hi-Pinion 8"
...... $700-$1,000???
Rear Axle w/gusset and 3-link/CoilOver tabs
-- 4.88 Yukon Spool
-- Disc Brake Conversion (not installed yet)
....... $350-$500++ ????? or just sell complete 3rd

-- (5) Converted 6 Lug HUMVEE Military Double Beadlocks w/runflats also have (5) crappy (no value) 36X12.50 16.5 Goodyeay Military OZ tires and (1) 38X12.50 16.5 SuperSwamper TSL SX about 90%
........ $600-?????

thanks

 

So... are you snapping Birfields right and left like twigs?

What size tires you running?

Why not put Longfields in the front? I know graphs (and marketing) can be a bit shady, but from what I have read and understand the Longfield super axles are really close if not stronger than the stock D60 axles.

http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/graph.html

Are you looking for added width, thus the 60's? What motor/ gears does your current setup have?

Not knocking your ideas... just trying to learn. I currently have a Toyota axle SAS with Longs that I am very happy with. Just seems that putting Longs in there would stop your exploding Birf problem, require zero additional fab, and get you back out on the trail with more confidence as well as more money in your pockets.

 

yea Longs are awsome.... stock is weak when you wedge a tire at full lock with heavy ass beadlocks w/runflats and only 36's...

problem with Longs is that you now have a weak ring gear.... Longs last, gears after Longs dont.... you can have the gears cryo'd but I am ready to stepup to somthin more stable

if i didnt want the added stability I would buy Longs 100% but I got extra stock crap to fix it for now until I get a front HP 60 retubed

i am stock, stock, and stock..... stock 3.0 V6, stock A340H Auto, stock 4.88 gears

I am gonna try and do this swap right out $$ wise..... sell all my current stuff to cover all the new stuff.... think it can be done??
I will be welded front and rear so most $$ will go into regearing

 

Please Google Homegrown Crew Inc. Perhaps try Pirate.

Look at the Raisin.

That is my old Diamond running 30 spline Longfields and 44's.

These guys eat outputs and REAR diffs, not the HP fronts.

To get significantly stronger than 30 spline Longfields, you are going to have to drop some coin.

 

I don't have the depth of knowledge to answer that question... but it's my understanding that getting a set of 60 axles to be stronger than Longfield equipped/ chromo rear Toyota axles you will be spending some good change.

I'd think you'd be stepping up to 38's... 40's or bigger to justify a fully built pair of 60's behind a 3.0 automatic... if 60's behind a stock 3.0 pushing 4.88's can be justified?? You have any plans of upgrading the HP or adding a set of crawler cases?

By the time I go to 60's (if I ever did, which I would really doubt) my rig would be unrecognizable as a 4Runner. There would be no glass left, every body panel would have received a good bit of trail massaging and I'd be wondering why my 40" tires where starting to look small again.

 

You are talking about locating and modifying the holy grail of stock housings for the price of a stock Toyota solid axle. Good luck.

Ground clearance is going to be sweet too.

Keep us posted.

 

im gonna run atleast 40's maybe 42's.... i was gonna run 38's on toyota but I want more stability and even bust birfs with bald HUMVEE tires.

I can get a front HP 60 for under $250...... with alittle lookin and talkin...
-- have to shorten the LS... $time
-- retube the SS and make the LS.... $50
-- reuse the inner C's.... $time
-- shorten a LS shaft..... $70
-- reuse SS shaft or get a Chevy/Dodge SS shaft.... $50
-- hi-steer arms..... $250
-- misc link material/rod ends/etc..... $250

looks like less than $1000........ maybe..... minus gearing ofcourse

 

I will probally run 5.38 gears in the 60's Welded of course..... front & rear with hydro-assist

 

To be clear, you are breaking Stockfields, right? Hardly comparable to other choices.

You are getting the most desirable stock housing for $250? That is the big miracle to me.

 

all stock......

i'm the man..... redneck USA

if i had to get one now.... $700

if i wait i can probally get one for FREE!!!!!

 

Hmmm sounds like FJ80 axles with longs would be a better solution. Beefier ring, longfields are plenty strong to hold onto those 36's or even 40's and I beleive they are high pinion. Lets not forget you can adjust pinion on toyota front ends... Your talking about doing housing trims for a better pinion from a ford axle why not this:

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/rotated_housing/


Take a look at the arctic trucks they run 44's on Toy axles.

http://www.4x4offroads.com/toyota-4runner.html

 

80 axles are more $$ than a HP 60, i already run a HP 8" in the front.
for the cost of beefin up with Longs and swappin to an 80 axle i could do 60's.

everytime i go out i beat my truck and come home to fix another piece on this damn front Toyota axle.... my wheel bearings go everytime they get muddy and i am breaking wheel studs left and right damn things are soo long.

i would like to stick to Toyota but...... if i run 60's then i will never have to worry about breaking an axle again

also full width for better stability....... <------- #1
thought about a T-100 and 80 for the front but will still have to upgrade so 60's it is but probally will not do any swapping for another year or maybe i will break all my spare birfs and then swap sooner

 

Lol idk man get some ARP studs and build your front axle the right way. Six shooter TG knuckles with ARP studs, and longfield 30splines and hub bearings sounds like a cheaper/less time consuming route than 60's.

 

FJ60/62 front axles are the answer. 9.5" ring and pinion with longs your done. Plus it's easy to get 64" WMS to WMS out of one. I'm planning to run 42" with a 62 front and an 80 rear.

 

I took "the easy way out" and widened my front hanger and made custom shackles when I put a 60 in the front of my already SAS'd 93. wmw-wms on a gm 60 is approx 14 inches wider than a toy minitruck front axle. To migate the huge jump in width, I went with 5.5"bs H2 wheels. The benfits to going this route are 1. no custom axle shaft required for the long side. and 2. better scrub radius vs wheels w/ shallower bs.

 

60 series 60/62 Cruiser axles still use Mini birfields.

People are running 40-42's on 80 Series axles stock. Longfields are piece of mind.

For everyone else but you, bulding 60's is spendy.

Do you plan to run 30 splines in the 60 with stock joints? All you are gaining is width compared to a beefed Toyota.

 

well i found a complete running F350 4x4 asking $1600.....

why not run HUMVEE rims with almost 8" of BS??? hub stick out too far??

i think shorting the longside 3"-4" and cutting and resplining the shaft (of a chevy) would be easier than cutting the hanger and remaking. but maybe im wrong.

i was planning on running stock 35 inner/30 outters with stock joints

i need more width for bashing trees and rocks while keeping the body decent. My driving style has changed from cautious/˟˟˟˟˟ to "it will make it"
along with the birf i destroyed also got my front PS fender/ARB Bumper and rear DS back door and beyond

also gonna get rid of the ARB bumper and put one of those nasty looking front hoops and build into the future exo

 

Lol sounds like your doing this for the wrong reasons. Ever heard of an exocage or even just rock sliders with a tube running the fender... You can rub trees all day with that and not touch your body.

Good arctic 4runner and you'll find a well built Icelandic rig on 44 with mini axles.

PS: If you really want that width why not get new wheels with 1 or 0 back spacing?

 

i dont think wheel bearings & wheel studs will hold up to that.....

swapped the busted birf, we will see how long she holds

the fenders are going anyways or aleast most of them like this

 

Who in there right mind would put a HEEP bezel on a Toyota?