regear stock toyota axle, forget this dana stuff, just my .02

 

This makes more sense. I may be wrong, but I'm pretty sure I've seen A LOT of yota axles running 35's.. the bigger axles will just make you loose ground clearence.

 

I don't have a stock toyota front axle? It is an 88 pickup. I'm doing a solid axle swap... Chevy axles are cheap and easy to come by. However I have only seen 2 toyota solid fronts in my life. If you are referring to the back axle... I wouldn't want the front wider than the back, I hate wheel spacers, and regearing is something I don't have the money for right now. I'm all for keeping it toyota, just not on this rig... It already has a chevy motor trans transfer case wiring ecu ect... This truck is a budget build, my 4runner will prob be a different story. I have a 1uz swap in mind

 

Just for the record, I do feel that the stock toyota fronts are just as strong internally as the dana 44s, Its just a matter of finding one and dealing with the birfield joints. Throw a bunch of money at the birfields and you will have a great axle, but its something i'm not interested in at the time...

 

I do have several sets of flat tops.The thing is I am in business to make money,and I will tell you I am not the cheapest rout.What I would do is sell what you have on craigs list.Then post an add that says I have 100 bucks for the first person who calls me with a dana 44 from a 76.5-78 k5 blazer.In that year range you are almost garanteed flat tops+you get a better axle.Hell you could even say 4.10 gears if that is what you have out back.

 

[URL]http://http://i1068.photobucket.com/albums/u442/oneIwilly/IMAG0239.jpg[/URLI was going to walk you through it,but cant figure out how to post pics.

 

just hit the little icon that looks like mountains with a sun behind it, make sure to delete http:// in the box before pasting the link (notice how your last attempt says http://http://)

 

 

 

What I do is grind down one side of the perch to get the angle im looking for.In my case this took 5/16 off the perch heigth.So I welded a piece of 5/16 plate on top and redrilled the alignment pin hole.Then useing a level,welded the other perch to match.

 

 

It is important to set your jack stands up so the axle is sitting as close to where it will be running as can be.With full weight and tire size accounted for.In the above pic the caster is set at 7 degrees.Before I turned the c the nuckle was rotated offset in the opposite direction of where it is in the pic(positive caster).0 is strait up and down 7 degrees back (-caster)is what you want.

 

 

While the axle is on the truck,run something strait through the eyes of the ball joints (make sure whatever it is,is centered).Put a magnetic angle finder on it and beat the caster to 7 degrees.If it is set at 6 or 8 no big deal,as long as both sides match perfect.I usually set one side on the truck,pull the axle and match the other side on the bench.

 

 

Since you had to grind off the caster welds that was a great time to just pop them off and narrow the houseing to the rear toyota axle width.

 

Thats cool, I will definately have to do that... Thanks, did you ever think about doing a writeup on it, it would be easy seeing how you already have the pics

 

I dont know how.oneIwilly sucks at computers.

 

You dont need to pull the short side c off of a k5 axle.Just pull the one off the long side and cut the axle tube down 4 inches.Then send your shaft to dutchman and have them cut and spline it at 32.5., this gets you almost exactly yota rear IFS width.

 

A note on the axle.
If it's a D44, you might be able to find the WMS of a D44 from a jeep, and use that long side shaft (granted the spline count is the same), and you won't have to have your long shaft cut and re-splined.