no love, lol. i'll keep the jeep related posting to the jeepspeed forums... don't worry.

 

Don't worry about it...they're just messing with you. A lot of people on here are just used to getting bashed by jeep owners so they just do it back to any jeep owner. That's a pretty sweet picture though, that solid axles gotta be real bumpy though haha.

 

im completely joking. any wheeler who Treads Lightly is a friend in my book. Jeep, toyota, ford, doesnt matter, im always willing to help out a fellow wheeler. what did i drive prior to my toyota? let me tell you. a 96 jeep cherokee, and then a chrysler minivan!!! yikes. Toyota it shall be for me.

 

I've always been a fan of the cherokee's. I actually wanted one more than my 4runner, but I'm really glad i bought the yota now

 

First of all AxleIke that is a sick 4Runner.

I've been studying this is my suspension and steering class, but i was wondering from the guys out that already have their sas and how much different handling wise, is it than IFS?

 

Early Torsion bar IFS?

like night and day. SAS is WAAAAYYYYY better.

 

yeah 2nd gen 4Runner IFS.

I'm not going to do leaf springs, I'm doing a triangulated 3 link in the front to mimic the rear, somewhat.

What i was wondering about is the massive shift in un-sprung weight from relatively low mass (i.e.-only control arms and load bearing ball joints react to surface changes in IFS) to a solid axle housing, gusseting, 3rd member, and .250" wall links that now have to respond to the road.

Is it a noticeable difference in like high speed rough terrain (baja?) freeway manuvearability?

 

SAS can go fast in the desert. IFS can just do it better. Are you building a baja rig? If so, I'd recommend LT IFS, its just easier to deal with.

If not, and you are simply wanting to go fast on some dirt occasionally, and want to swap, then you'll be fine.

How to put this? Torsion bar IFS sucks. It is possibly the worst suspension design ever, in terms of ride comfort and, well, everything else. Thats just my opinion, of course, but I haven't found many who disagree.

If I were you, I'd build the front to match the rear you build next. The rear on those second gens can be made to work well, but if you've got the fab skills, it would be a waste to not go 3 or single triangulated 4 link in the rear.

As far a stability, the mass change is sort of non issue. Yes you change all that, but you also are completely changing the way the suspension works. Its a bit of an apples to oranges thing. If you do this right, you'll feel like you are driving a caddy, compared to how it is now.

If it were me, I'd run a sway bar. Other wise, you'll be looking at some pretty sweet body roll in tight corners, even at low speed.

 

for sure, great points, hopefully it drives like a caddy when i'm done.

I'm going for an all around rig, ie- mud/snow primarily, with occasional rocks?
as well as starting a mobile recovery/specialized repair/welding business mainly catering to the farmers who need specialized welding done or wine industry?
and of course people that run out of gas or get stuck in the mountains.

still debating chopping out the rear and doing a dual or single triangulated 4 link.

oh yeah, anyone used the factory IFS torsion bar as a splined shaft for a sway bar? been tossing that one around...

 

You will definetly have an all around rig with that set up. My only caution is to be SURE to take your time. Link set ups are not hard, but they require attention to detail. Don't put a time frame on it, as you don't want to cut any corners.

As for single vs double 4link, both are really good. Double has more bump steer. Single should be more road friendly. However, don't drive it like a race car, and either would work well.

Lastly, torsion bars work well for sway bars. I've been toying around with the idea of retrofitting a hub to work with one, so it is a really quick disco sway bar.

 

I have a pretty decent time frame on this project, considering i have the metal(machining and welding) labs available to me and the auto shop at school, which helps in a pinch, saving me time.

The only thing i was trying to avoid with the 4 link geometry was a panhard so i didnt have to account for space with the relocated 25 gallon!! tank in the rear. Yet still have some good manners on the road cause this rig will eventually be used as a tow rig, SC!

Not to steal your idea on the hubs, but I'm going to work on that and see what i come up with...Hopefully something cheap and marketable...

 

Here is a really nice looking rear link setup on a 4Runner. Looks like he was even able to keep the gas tank stock by bending the lower links:



More info here:

 

That is a sick 4runner.....I need those links.

I have kept mine pretty low...running 33's

 

i wanna do the 5 in sas from all pro and i was wondering what i have to do to the drive shafts... i think i will need to make them longer but how do i go about doing that ?

 

pull your driveshafts and measure from the transfercase to the front 3rd member and do the same for the rear

 

Are those the stock coil buckets and like FJ80 coils? That looks like it could def work for my rear, instead of cutting all the brackets and doing the geometry...

 

Elvota - is that the bobbed 4runner w/ FJ80 front end that was for sale?

 

some awesome rigs in here!

 

Yes... I thought the way he did his links was very clean.