Solid Axle Swaps, All Years Anything SAS related

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Old Aug 20, 2008 | 12:25 PM
  #21  
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look through this thread on pirate. this is what it should have looked like. unless this is a street queen, i'd see about getting that suspension fixed before i got out on the big rocks with it.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=321699
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Old Aug 20, 2008 | 07:47 PM
  #22  
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From: Meadow Vista, CA
Originally Posted by Toy-SkiTzo
holy drop hanger
x2,

what did you get a sas for, are you gona be rockcrawling or mudding/
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Old Aug 21, 2008 | 06:55 PM
  #23  
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From: Austin, TX
Originally Posted by toyminator2000
All I have to say is, Wow

I'll bet those u-bolt bumpstops are pretty harsh.
Wow. That's definitely not the typical way it's done. Was that done by Extreme Offroad in Havelock, NC? They definitely build mud trucks(all suspension height) and not rock crawlers (suspension articulation).

Before you drive that anywhere, do something to keep the brake lines out of the tires!

Did they weld the front springhanger/crossmember better on the back that just the two spots on the front? With the length of the drop hangers (IE, torque arm radius against the welds) I'd expect the front axle to be able to bend it over if it's not well gusseted in the rear once you get a driveshaft.

What is the caster angle? Have you tried measuring what the front driveshaft angles are going to be?

Last edited by Toyotero; Aug 21, 2008 at 06:58 PM. Reason: typos
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Old Aug 22, 2008 | 06:59 AM
  #24  
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Yes Alex from Havelock at Extreme Offroad did it, yes mud is pretty much all that i see, and the reason i didnt get changed and finished better was that the guy had my for over 3 months and I had to go to his shop everyday to get him to finish. I moved to VA a month before that and was stuck in NC untill i got it back. With school like a week away, i told him that I needed it drivable so that i could take that bitch home. We were going to get a lawyer but I couldn't stay any longer, so i took my and left. Overall it costed me a tad over 3000$, many a headaches, and a lot more work to still do, which i dont have the time or money to do. He does know what he is doing by the way, he has a bunch of artiles in Petersons and he won top truck award at Telico a little back. But overall HIS SERVICE BLOWS. Never go to this man, he is nice but always has way too much preventing him from doing his job. And if you really want that axle it is at his shop in Havelock. U can have it for 50 bucks.
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Old Aug 22, 2008 | 07:06 AM
  #25  
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Oh ya, block is there bc the front was way TOO high, so i had to level it out a little. Gona replace em with 5" marlin springs. The gearing for the front is 4:10:1 but im gona go 5:29s anyways. Shocks are like that bc the ones in the rear were supposed to go up front but when i had to put those blocks in, they didnt have enough travel, so we put em up front. But im gona replace that with a shock hoop and longer shocks. I am also gona cut the u-bolts, put in adjustable bumpstops. Possibly cut off sprig hanger and put a trail-gear one on there.
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Old Aug 22, 2008 | 09:49 AM
  #26  
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From: San Jose, CA
definately get some shock hoops and mount those shocks right, cause those shocks are horribly mounted and thats not gonna give you any flex whatsoever and probably a crappy ride.

Last edited by NorCrawler; Aug 22, 2008 at 09:53 AM.
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Old Aug 22, 2008 | 10:32 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by YOTABP
im gona replace that with a shock hoop and longer shocks. I am also gona cut the u-bolts, put in adjustable bumpstops. Possibly cut off sprig hanger and put a trail-gear one on there.
That sounds like a plan for a safe and functional vehicle.

When you install the spring hanger, also plan to put the shackles though the frame to keep the caster correct or closer to correct.
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Old Aug 23, 2008 | 06:03 AM
  #28  
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3k? wow...i hope you had some vaseline for that....

Thats a shame....

I'm sure you can get it all fixed up though
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Old Aug 23, 2008 | 06:09 AM
  #29  
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From: NJ
So thats what a custom shop built sas looks like.


have you given it the test yet
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Old Aug 23, 2008 | 06:54 AM
  #30  
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Nope need a driveshaft, he didnt have one made and i needed my so i dont have one. Im sure it will flex good though once i cut those bolts down. The springs are old emu softride springs and he said they flex like a mother, we'll see though. Ill try and find something that i can flex on without using 4 wheel drive to see. Check out his website and tell me what you think http://www.myspace.com/extremeoffroad1
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Old Aug 23, 2008 | 07:16 AM
  #31  
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From: St. Loser, Misery
Originally Posted by YOTABP
Nope need a driveshaft, he didnt have one made and i needed my so i dont have one. Im sure it will flex good though once i cut those bolts down. The springs are old emu softride springs and he said they flex like a mother, we'll see though. Ill try and find something that i can flex on without using 4 wheel drive to see. Check out his website and tell me what you think http://www.myspace.com/extremeoffroad1
how long are the springs? That is a good determination of how much they will flex (along with other factors)....to me the springs look like stock length OME springs....most "crawlers" have longer springs like 48"+ on the front and like 56"+ on the back...
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Old Aug 23, 2008 | 07:27 AM
  #32  
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the ome springs will flex better than factory ones but no where close to say a mixed pack of rear springs in the front. or marlin trail gear or allpro springs. were it mine i'd order a sas kit from trail gear and a redo the entire front. then put 5" lift springs from any of those listed above in the rear.
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Old Aug 23, 2008 | 08:05 AM
  #33  
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netwt12~ D!@# man he already spent 3grand on it! Your looking at another 1,500 hundred for just the front kit from T-gear and $500 for the back springs and all that goes with it. Your looking at around 6 grand in a lift. WOW! He should have went that way first. Sell it now and start over...

Last edited by Broomie's; Aug 23, 2008 at 03:22 PM.
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Old Aug 23, 2008 | 10:31 AM
  #34  
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cut off everything and rears up front and 63" chevies in the rear then. buy the hangers and shackles from sky mfg. use f250 shock mounts up front. he'd be into it for $500-$1000 this route. i'd also throw away the d44 as they are no better than the factory toyota axle, but that isn't a must. i think the biggest problem is that the OP didn't do any research on a SAS and just took it to a shop to have the work done. unfortunately the shop he chose didn't know any of the common ways to SAS a toyota. they just scaled back a mud-bomber lift for a chevy.
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Old Aug 23, 2008 | 03:29 PM
  #35  
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I agree! It's a shame and A BIG wast of time and money! The shop that did the work should have know better,unless there just into sewing up a good Toy. The info is put out there especially to the shops that want to do this kind of work..
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 05:05 PM
  #36  
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actually I did more than plenty of research on this site, I was planning on doing a trail-gear kit myself and have my uncle do the welds, but im working on my engineering degree and was doing 18 credit hours plus 36 hours a week. No time to do it myself, secondly i had the money saved up so i said f it, i need it done so that i can drive it up to VA, bc my IFS was sooo dicked up. I had no idea it would turn out like this, but happens its not unfixable, and technically it is a lot better than my ifs which i could almost make 90 degree right turns without holding the wheel
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 07:20 PM
  #37  
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as long as you're happy
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Old Aug 25, 2008 | 01:47 PM
  #38  
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the springs are about 45'' with all the weight on em, but i thought they would flatten out more than they are.
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Old Sep 9, 2008 | 08:49 PM
  #39  
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From: Cumming, GA
LOSE THE BODY LIFT.

I'd demand a refund.
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Old Sep 12, 2008 | 11:40 AM
  #40  
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From: boone, nc
advice

ok im nervous after seeing that. (no offense) I am debating putting dana 44s under my toya with SAS, does anyone have any advice for or against doing it. I chose dana 44s because i am gettin the full width and they have gears and lockers for an awsome deal, so stop me before its too late if i shouldnt do 44s under my truck
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