I have a few questions. Im trying to learn a few things about the 4x4 world. PLEASE dont tell me to use the search menu. I wouldnt be asking it here if I could find it or If I understood what I have read about it already.

First, SAS= solid axle swap..... What exactly is this? When yall say SOLID axle, Are yall referring to the 85 and lower model toyota trucks? What makes them better?

Second: I have somewhat of an understanding about lockers. Could you give me a brief summery? Does it cause both wheels on each axle to spin the same? A good example would be a truck that does a burnout and only one tire spins.....?????

Third and last: The transfer case is where both drive shafts are connected and the case is connected to the trans....???? If so... What makes dual transfer cases better? how do they work?

 

1. Solid axles are preferred over IFS for many wheelers. One reason, and perhaps the most worthy, is strength. The front axles and their components on vehicles equipped with IFS(Independent Front Suspension), don't hold up as well for serious trail activity (e.g. rock crawling). Another is, vehicle leverage. This is also beneficial for serious off-roading. When on side of the axle goes up, the other side goes down. Helpful when dropping off ledges or into holes or going up and out of them at angle. IFS equipped vehicles can do this too, although not as easily and requires more driver finesse.

2. Lockers do indeed lock both wheels. But they also unlock for cornering, but not with out a little pop, bang or ratchet sound of protest.

3. Dual transfer case setups, greatly reduce you gear ratio for crawling at low low speeds. To much throttle can break traction and sometimes just being able to let your rig slowly crawl itself up something is the best way to keep from breaking expensive parts. But it's also useful going down hills too, where you don't want to use the breaks.

 

Sort of. The vehicle leverage is right. Strength is only if you BUILD the axle. Stock solid axles off of an 85 or earlier toyota are no stronger than CV axles. The steering that comes with a SAS kit is FAR superior to IFS. I would argue that IFS holds up just fine to all but the most hardcore rock crawling. TC and I do just fine.

To the OP, most people SAS to look cool. You can fit bigger tires and front axle is usually moved slightly forward, giving the truck a more agressive stance. I would say about 5-10% of people who SAS ACTUALLY have hit the limits of their IFS. Even I haven't hit the limits of mine yet.

Only one type of locker. The locker he is describing here is an "auto locker", eg: detroit, aussie, etc... These lockers provide full lock up when the drive train is under power, and sort of unlock when not. You have to train yourself to drive the truck with them, and they do make a ratcheting noise. If you give it power, say, out of a stop light making a right or left, you will lock up and get tire chirp, or hop.

There are full spools which NEVER unlock. There are also selectable lockers, which give you the best of both worlds. Open diff on the highway for smooth easy driving, and fully spooled on the trail, eg: ARB, OEM Toyota. I recommend ARB, but I'm pretty biased.

Absolutely. TC just put his in a few months ago, and it is something else to watch a truck climb a 2 ft vertical rock ledge with NO GAS. Just the engine idle. He could have gotten out of the truck. SICK.

 

thats pretty much it, and you think its confusing when you dont know about 4x4 and off-roading, just wait tell you know all your options, youll spend day after day trying to make a decission that you wont be happy with, ifs turns to toyota solid axle, toyota axle turns to dana 44, dana 44 turns to full width 1ton gear and so on. Ignorance is bliss!!!!!

 

The biggest problem with IFS is the steering. Any modification to the suspension compromises steering strength. Mainly the idler arm. I bent 2 idler arms on my rig and my friend broke his off the frame mount. Going with tires bigger than 31's also compromises tie rod strength. Especially when going to a swamper style tire that weighs MUCH more than say a BFG. My friend ran 33x12.3 TSL's and completely stripped BRAND NEW tie rods on one trip.

The next part is the CV joints. When you add any suspension lift this changes the CV angles. Adding a larger tire creates more downward pull and when flexed out or 3 wheelin, it tends to hyperextend the cv joint.

The last thing is the puny flex. I fried my front ring gear stripping all the teeth. I ended up putting a front tire in the air an upon landing back on the ground, since it was moving, it caused a massive shock to the ring gear chipping teeth. Had i had more flex to keep all 4's planted the shock would have been less. A locker would have also helped in that situation.

SAS isnt just for hardcore crawling either. In fact it excels in very diverse terrain. Here in Washington we have alot of trails in the woods. Its a big mix of rock, dirt, roots, trees, mud, ruts, washouts, and steep climbs. IMO a SAS can and will save a vehicle from body and drivetrain damage in less than desirable conditions due to the fact it keeps all 4's on the ground longer than IFS. Doing that provides more traction which=more control. It also reduces the risk of hard impact breakage. i remember watching a video of a red runner on here fully locked on 31's with IFS. I noticed loads of unnecisary tire lifitng and bashing on the rig. Had he had a lift with larger tires and flex (SAS) he mostlikely would have moved right on through that obstacle due to having larger tires to get up and over the obstacle and flex to keep all 4's down.

In the end if you havent pushed your IFS yet and havent destroyed it dont SAS. Only once you reach your IFS limits and stuff breaks like nothing, tires are always in the air, and small tires limit you then SAS. Learn the rig first, learn to drive it, learn offroading. Then see if your ready for an SAS.

 

i couldnt agree ore with the last post. good call dude.