ok so i figured since im doin my SAS in about a week that i would take my front driveshaft out so thats one less PITA to take care when it comes time....well the joint attaching to the diff was easy i just air gunned it out but the double cardon joint side attached to the Xcase is impossible to get to how did you guys take it off??

i was figuring i would take the crossmember off and support the Xcase with a jack so i could get to it but some people did it without taking it off and i want to know how you guys did it thank you ahead of time

 

mine comes out with 2 14 mm wrenches.

 

^^^ what he said ^^^

 

put the t-case in neutral then it should be easy to turn...if you can't turn it...I mean.
and yeah, what the other guys said...two 14 mm wrench...

 

have a buddy throw it backin 4lo when you get the wrench on... makes it alot easier.. then put it back in N. to move to the next one.

 

hop from under it, roll it a few inches, and remove another. it takes time, but its easy.

 

i tried putting in 4 low to keep the driveshaft stable but that nut is really on there they wouldn't budge and im not a weak guy i only spent like 30 min tryin to get on it ill get it off tomorrow wd40 aught to help ive taken the rear driveshaft out no problem so i wasnt' expecting the front to be that hard

 

lol they're not that hard. Socket on one side, box wrench on the other to hold it steady. If necessary, use a breaker bar.

 

on the double cardon joint side??? you can't fit a socket by the transfer case ive been trying maybe im just being totally retarded but theres not room for a socket and ratchet by the xcase and if i try a socket on the nut the joint gets in the way of the socket so that you cant get an even grip for the socket

 

 

use an extension? lol.

 

ok im not as stupid as im sounding ive tried the socket with an extension.. the joint where the two ujoints connect gets in the way so there isn't a flush grip with the socket on the nut.. thats what im talking about so when you try to get a breaker bar to get it loose it strips off because the socket isn't flush on the nut for maximum grip

 

I dunno dood, I never had a problem. I did it all from the passenger side obviously underneath.

 

yeah thats what im not understanding im doing the same thing as you guys and it doesn't work oh well

 

well my impatience finally taught me a lession i got it off to problem just had to let the wd40 set in i feel like an idiot

 

On my 94 truck (R150F/VF1A) there were studs pressed into the flange from the rear, and only the nuts and washers on the front. I did end up having to use the 4-LO and the 14mm wrench to get it to budge, and then going to neutral and rotating it, then 4-LO, until they all came off. The best part was trying to redrill the flange to accept the 85 CV joint! That flange is HARD. I had to just drill out the existing holes to get the bolt patterns to line up.