Only had about an hour tonight. Cleaned up the bench from yesterday and started to get the wheel hubs ready by banging out the inner and outter bearing races on both hubs. At somepoint in its life a previous wheel bearing got a little warm. The races and bearings that came out looked fine with no discoloration.



Blocks of wood or in a vice to hold them up. The hubs have two knotches on either side where you can catch the inside edge of the race with a brass punch.

 

Looking good! It’s taking you a few weeks for what I’ve done in 2 years LOL

 

haha thanks, makes me feel sorry for your Toyota lol. Unfortunately these things never finish themselves.

 

Nothing much here, 20mins in the garage before bed. I had put the hubs in front of the wood stove for about an hour. The bearings races outside for maybe 20mins which may not have been enough. The outer race went in super smooth. The inner however did go in but put up a little bit more of a fight and took a little longer with the punch. Tomorrow for the other hub it'll get longer in front of the woodstove and the races outside as well.

To set them, use one of the old races. Set the bottom of the old race on top of the new race. I then used piece of steel stock laying across the top to tap it in with hammer. Then finish it off with a brass punch. If they start to set crooked just tap it out and start over. Don't try to beat it straight, these are a tight fit.

 

2nd hub done before bed tonight. I left these two races in my deep freezer over night. The hub stayed inside on the floor in front of woodstove. Much smoother inner and outer going in.

 

Time for oil seals from hub to spindle. Grease on the hub and outsode edge of oil seal. Can get it started with some light taps around the edge. Paper towel to keep dirt out from the block of wood used to set them in place.

 

The rotor to hub face on both side i put a thin layer of anti seize mainly as a rust prevention. The two bolts that hold the rotor before the wheel studs go in. A dab of anti seize then torqued to 34Lbs, book says 29 -39Lbs.

Wheel studs got a anti seize around the whole thing, grease would work too. This mainly for a lubrication as they set into place. Got them started with light hits with hammer and punch.

I grabbed an old original toyota steelie from outback and some old lug nuts. Used impact to set them in place then battery died. Finished off with a bigger hammer and steel punch.

 

With the hub fully assembled it's time to add it too the axle. Grease one the entire spindle and particularly where the oil seal will sit and on the knuckle dust seal.

Before going on i added a healthy amount of grease inside the hub it'self. Then grease on the rubber of oil seal and where the rubber for knuckle dust seal will sit.

Hub on axle. It is a pretty tight fit on the dust seal to hub surface. It takes a decent amount of force and some light rocking movement for it set in place inside the seal on knuckle.

 

The kit does not come with new nuts for the wheel bearings. These were pretty chewed up from someone in the past killing them with a hammer and flat head. Had to do some filing so the correct socket (54mm) would go on.


For he hub to go on you will use thrust washer which goes against the wheel bearing. Adjusting nut, lock washer (has locking tabs) followed by lock nut. Add the thrust washer and adjusting nut. Tighten the adjusting nut to 43Lbs and give the hub a few spins. Loosen the nut till you can spin it by hand. Then retorque the to 35lbs and give the hub a couple spins. Using a tension gauge to check preload, you want 6.2-12.6lbs of force.

 

The adjusting nut torque range is 35-60lbs. You use this range to get the preload desired. For whatever reason my assembly was a little tight on the pull gauge. Torqued at 35lbs pull gauge was coming in at 17lbs I think it was at first. If it was mine I would of left it and moved on. I ended up just spinning the hub by hand for a couple minutes. With the adjusting nut torqued to 37lbs I was reading 15lbs on pull gauge. Once truck is together, ill put some miles on it and comeback and check the wheel bearing preload.
Once the adjusting nut is squared away add the locking washer and lock nut. Lock nut is torqued 58-72lbs. I did mine to 60lbs. Bend one tab of lock washer over the adjusting nut and one over the lock nut.

 

Time for freewheel hub.


Using any toyota 12mm bolt you can thread it into the end ove axle. This give you something to grab and pull the axle through just enough to reinsert your split ring.

The cone washer and bolts were so filthy i didn't even want to putm on. A quick 5 minutes in sonice cleaner made them much better.

Gasket is antisiezed on both sides.

 

The cone washers,then regular washer and nuts are threaded on. Then torqued to 23lbs. Book says 21-25lbs. The hub seletor for freewheel or locked is then added. Gasket surface is cleaned and anti seized as well as the 10mm bolts. Those bolts are torqued to 5.8-8.7lbs. I snugged them up with regular 3/8 ratchet. The selector must be lined up certaing way to slide into hub 100% of the way. If it does not want to go in dont force it. Just realin pull out and realign to next set of splines.

 

Did the other rotor last night. Saved my impact and did them all by hand with blocks of wood, hammer and piece of 1" solod steel stock. Takes a little time but it works.

Same thing as the other side. The nuts appeared to have gotten in a fight with a flat head screwdriver in a previous life. Filed the burs down just get rid of any sharp edges.


Just like the other side. My preload when done is just over 15Lbs. Which is over what book says but id rather both sides be almost the same then totally different. Again, after everything is done and i get some miles on it. I will pull the tires off and check them again. Scroll back to previous post on the other side for the torque specs.

 

axle is 100% done. Paint takes alot of extra time on multiple aspects but the final product is always so much better. Goal is for this weekend to start unbolting and cutting on the truck. Still have a ways to go before final completion.

 

Axle done and out the way i could get the truck in the garage. Get a game plan and start cutting on it this weekend. First order will be to take the 35's and get them out the way. I'll put a roller set of 31's on the rear to bring the truck down just a little bit so i don't have to use as much blocking/make my jack stands so tall.

 

With my 31" may pops on the rear, i took the time to actually build some pads for my jackstands instead of just throwing some blocks together. The Harbour frieght extended jack stands were like $80 for the pair. Which seemed nice bit ive been wanting to put these pads together for years lol. First 6x6 is has a 2inch auger bit 1inch deep for the rope knot to fit in. 5/8 bit for the rope. Clamp together and ran 8inch hedge lock bolts two on each sode into the center on.

 

I had been dreading dealing with this pitman arm since the night i towed it home. Almost every day for the past month i walked outback and gave it a shot of wd-40 to try and soak it into the splines.

With the pitman arm nut off i was a little discouraged to see the bottom of the splines completely dry. Years ago when i did mine i took the steering box to a friend with a press. It didnt pop off till we hit 13tons on his machine.


I first tried my 3 jaws regular puller. Not suprised it didnt budge. Being on the steering box, don't wanna ise heat or just beat it with hammer. My friends jeep i had to put a slit in it. I stopped just shy of cutting all the way through and put a fitting wedge into it and it fell off. But that was last case scenario. To my amazement i picked up a pitman arm puller for $20. I cranked it as much as i thought it could stand and then just gave repeated light taps for about a minite.

Pitman arm nut obviously needed to be discarded and doesn't belomg going back on the truck. New one ordered.

 

Fender liner removal both sides