So this is the big weekend for the 4runner.

So here is what we are working with. 90 4runner 2dr. Trail-Gear 3" ifs eliminator with the creeper gussets.

Here she is in the current state.


Here is the axle when I picked it up.


I just finished welding and cleaning up the axle housing and having it powdercoated so here it is in its current state waiting to be reassembled.


I still need to take a wire wheel to the knuckle balls to clean up the overspray. But reassembly will take part tomorrow and saturday we will start the cutting.

 

Be sure and take lots of pictures!! Make sure you buy 5 or 6 grinding wheels for after the IFS comes off!

 

What are you doing in the rear?

Jeremy

 

Hopefully I am keeping the rear the same. I have not read anywhere what the difference will be. I'll have to see if it will be much of a difference.

If that doesn't work I'll have to find some different springs or temporarily go with spacers. I'm keeping coils in the rear though. No doubt about it.

 

Good luck man, I just finished my SAS on my 93 2rd Runner and its way high. I got about 6.5" of lift in the front with the 3" TG swap kit. You will need to find some big ass springs, I put in OME 862's and it was still 4" lower in the back. I added 2" spacers tonight and it looks a bit better but still lots of sag look in the back.

I hate to say it but I think I'm going to end up with leafs in the back. Now that I have the truck almost level when ever I turn left the drive shaft hits the gas tank. I cant even drive the truck right now as it is, and I have a 4" panhard drop braket on there.

I'm lookign at getting some 07 taco rear leafs or Chevies.

Godd luck with the swap, its not tha hard part the hard part it getting it to all work right after.

Jeremy

 

what all does it intell doin the sas? im readin up on i, but i still aint real sure about what all it really intells. any help? is it alot of cuttin and weldin?

 

Take a look here>>

http://www.marlincrawler.com/suspension/sas_inst.htm


I usually recommend moving the steering box to correct the whack steering geometry after its lifted

 

Leaving the rear coiled can result in screwy handling, and will probably mean that only one end will do the work, likely the rear, when flexing. We'll see when you get it done, but I'm betting a leaf spring conversion is in the future.

 

I am keeping couls in the rear. We are just added 20" to the main links and moved the brackets foreward. Next i am putting my gas tank in the bed and going to move the 2 center links.

 

i bet the 3' SAS kit will be really high in the front they all are at first but with a later modletruck and a v6 they will settle down alot....i've seen som go from about 5-6" down to 3-4" anyways good luck

 

My truck after a week of sriving with the 3"SAS kit is still way high in the front. I have OME LC coils in the back and 2" spacers and there way to soft the truck is scary to drive. if I was to do the coil rear again I would get the 3.5" 80 series heavy lift springs and try and get some of the stabillity back. Right now the rear liks are maxed out and I awesome rear steer around corners. My rear axle is also pointing 3/4" to the pass side.

I'm seriously looking at losing the coil rear end in favor of leafs. Not that I really want to, I love the way the coils ride on the street and off road but for safty I think its needed.

 

True, this is why I choose to do leafs all around...

David

 

We will see how it handles with coils in the rear. It is not my daily driver so I should be able to bear it.

Whats the trick to getting the knuckle bearing races seated? I even froze them overnight and that did not help any.

 

when i get around to doing my sas, it'll be coils all around. better performance, much better ride and it just looks unique on a Toyota.

 

Brass drift and a hammer...gradually tap them down.

 

X2 Worked great for me!

 

So here is an update. As you can see I am takin gmy time with it working on it when I get the chance.

The point of no return.







bye bye half shaft







I am now realizing how much of a difference it is going to be in the front. So i'm trying to plan on what to do to lift the rear. I really don't want to give up the coils but at the same time I don't want it to be so tipsy. Any solutions?

 

I ended up doing a leaf swap on the back of mine and am very happy I did. If you want to keep coils you will need to remake all the rear links and fit big coils. The problem is when you lift it to the point that its not sagging in the back the links are just to short. You are better off making a full custom linked rear end like the trail gear 3 link set up. Problem with that is the cost and then you still need coilovers or air shocks.

Leafs is the cheapest and most common thing (becuse it works). I used chevy 3/4 ton 63" leafs in the rear of mine and the ride is good and I have a the rear the same hight as the front now. Once you have done the SAS on the front the leafs swap on the rear is a breeze.

Good luck and keep us updated.

Jeremy

 

Yeah. Regardless what I do to the rear if I am lifting it more with keeping coils then I will have to extend the control arms and have a new panhard bar made up.

Wheelingnoob, you did a 3" tg kit right? What coils did you have to begin with? I'm wondering how much more lift I will need in the rear over the fj80 coils that I currently have back there.

 

Yes I do have the 3" sas kit, the coils I was using were the OME 862's there a 80 Series rear coil that gives them a 1" loft and is rated for 250lbs more payload. I had then add a 2" coil spacer to them and I was still low in the back and had maxed out all my links at that point.

If you have the stock 80 coils in there now I would say easally 4" more lift. The 3" sas kit gave me about 6" of lift over stock. and about 4" over my BJ spacers.

Part of my problem is the 2" BL that I need to take out ASAP! That will help the look of the truck greatly.

Jeremy