hey guys whats up sas compleated and tons of thinking going on...anyone got experience with doing a sas with a toyota axle and then upgrading to a dana 60? whats involved?

p.s. search...last two hours....nothing useful

 

Is that english?

Been done tons of times, search Pirate4x4.com.

 

hah thats been up for 72 hours english...ok thanks bud!

 

x2 on pirate4x4.com there is tons of information over there regarding this topic. You're gunna swap the rear to a 60 or 14 bolt then right? But just some advice, don't post a thread on pirate asking this question. Search. You will not get any help from replies except for people flaming you if you ask this question over there.

 

thanks for the heads up...i only lurk over there for that reason...

ya im thinking about it...preferably 60's front and rear


*sigh* full width would be sickkk

 

There's a guy on here doing D60's and 44" boggers. You could ask him..

 

do you know if he had yota axles under it first?


anyone know anyone on here thats running 37's or mabey 36's without going full width??

 

D60 front will cost you more than a front and rear Rockwell.
D60 rear is weak compared to a 14 bolt.

If you must go 1 tons go D60 front and 14 bolt rear, but like I said, be prepared to pay for the D60 front.

Personally, if I was going to go up from my Toyota axles and build something bigger, it would be Rockwells hands down.

 

really helpful thanks man...im just trying to figure out how i am going to be able to run anything bigger then 35's without going HUGE.

body lift i guess but im planning on buying one of your bumpers through trail gear and it says thats a no go with body lift...

 

Then you are going to have to break out the

 

ya thats what i was afraid of haha...somehow i knew i should have just started off full width but i found a perfect 81 axle at the last second.

 

I think badlands bumpers or AOR has bumpers to accomodate bodylifts...

 

You can always get a set of Longs which would cost as much as switching to 60's and 14 bolt and you get a lifetime warranty on them and not have to fab anything or change parts. Longfields are supposed to be equivalent to a D60.

 

IMO I wouldnt run 1 tons unless I was running 40" or taller. If you are running 35-37... you are going to lose alot of ground clearance and gain un needed strength.

Longfields will make your shafts pretty indestructible but it doesnt fix the weak housing.

If your going to run smaller than 40's than I would run a toy axle with longs, keep the knuckle studs torqued down, and DONT JUMP IT.

 

Oh and by the way its not hard to switch to them. just unbolt the toys and bolt up the tons. drill the flanges to accept your drive shafts, custom drag link, address the wheel bolt pattern difference, different u-bolts... different brake fittings...im stretching now.

 

huh...ok thats really helpful!!! thanx bro il probly just do what you said and stick with the toy axle and i guess go with 35's

 

Well it isnt that easy doing the swap right now. toyota center pins are 29 inchs center to center chevy are 31.5 inchs center to center. i just made a new front mount and made new shackles to accomadate the difference. I have tore up toyota axles every time i go out wheeling from breaking studs off the steering to breaking the axles. I went out this past weekend and tore up the second longfield in my truck with 35 inch boggers on it that is when i decided to do the full width swap. I would go wide if i was you and put full widths under it.

 

Your tire size selection is not the problem with your axles, it is the engine and tranny...and I would be interested to hear the circumstances of the carnage. I know tons of folks who wheel regularly with Toyota drivetrains and axes (upgraded properly of course) and 40s with no issues.

 

I like to jam on it alot i have the problem of fear no hill or creek bed its all about momentum!!!!!

 

My major problem has been ring and pinions for the most part that is the real reason i changed breaking the longs is just pure major abusement of the skinny pedal