1995 P/UP SAS BUILD UP Your Advice Please
04-12-2012, 11:42 AM
#41
Some people french the front hanger into the frame, to get things a little lower. You can search "low SAS" on here and Pirate. The IFS frames have a different bend in the front, making things a little trickier when doing low lifts and high steer. Some people even notch the driver side frame rail to deal with the pitman arm area, and use a flat pitman arm too. I didn't see any pics of your steering box relocation, not sure if you did that???
04-16-2012, 03:50 PM
#42
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I didn't need to relocate the box. I ordered a shorter pitman arm from chilkat designs. Old Man Emu springs in front w/ stock shackles.
This thing is a little over stock heigth and it flexes great. I definitely didn't get this flex from my IFS.
The tires are only 31X10.50's....
Here is a picture of some flexing:
This thing is a little over stock heigth and it flexes great. I definitely didn't get this flex from my IFS.
The tires are only 31X10.50's....
Here is a picture of some flexing:
Last edited by BC76; 04-16-2012 at 04:01 PM.
04-17-2012, 08:10 PM
#47
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this is a very nice SAS project, looks like a perfect ride height to me, def daily driver material! good luck with the tires, 33 km2s would look great, imo
04-18-2012, 04:56 AM
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04-18-2012, 05:02 AM
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When I first did it I had some interference between the rod and the pan. So............
I redrilled the perches and moved the axle forward just enough so their was no interference during flexing.
However, after doing so I had interference with the pitman arm hitting the rod. So....
I ordered a shorter arm from Chilkat designs and BOOM, it works like a charm.
As far as axle and pan.... no problems to mention (plenty of room to feel comfortable).
I redrilled the perches and moved the axle forward just enough so their was no interference during flexing.
However, after doing so I had interference with the pitman arm hitting the rod. So....
I ordered a shorter arm from Chilkat designs and BOOM, it works like a charm.
As far as axle and pan.... no problems to mention (plenty of room to feel comfortable).
04-18-2012, 05:08 AM
#52
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NEW problem....
Truck pulls to left when braking:
Probables:
Stuck caliper: Checked by myself and technichian (tire store)... they said it worked fine.
Aligned: Completed by myself and tech (Tire store).
Brakes: Brakes have been bled (sp) and good flow, no air in lines.
Rotors: Brand new from the TG kit.
Could there be an issue with the brake shoes when I put them on after the swap?
For some reason I still feel like it is the left caliper though. Any ideas or suggestions?
Truck pulls to left when braking:
Probables:
Stuck caliper: Checked by myself and technichian (tire store)... they said it worked fine.
Aligned: Completed by myself and tech (Tire store).
Brakes: Brakes have been bled (sp) and good flow, no air in lines.
Rotors: Brand new from the TG kit.
Could there be an issue with the brake shoes when I put them on after the swap?
For some reason I still feel like it is the left caliper though. Any ideas or suggestions?
04-18-2012, 05:11 AM
#53
04-18-2012, 05:16 AM
#54
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I hate to sell them... they are brand spanking new and I am running up and down the road more than I like right now...
Unless of course some one wants to pay good coin for them... HA@!
Last edited by BC76; 04-18-2012 at 05:17 AM.
04-18-2012, 05:31 AM
#55
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NEW problem....
Truck pulls to left when braking:
Probables:
Stuck caliper: Checked by myself and technichian (tire store)... they said it worked fine.
Aligned: Completed by myself and tech (Tire store).
Brakes: Brakes have been bled (sp) and good flow, no air in lines.
Rotors: Brand new from the TG kit.
Could there be an issue with the brake shoes when I put them on after the swap?
For some reason I still feel like it is the left caliper though. Any ideas or suggestions?
Truck pulls to left when braking:
Probables:
Stuck caliper: Checked by myself and technichian (tire store)... they said it worked fine.
Aligned: Completed by myself and tech (Tire store).
Brakes: Brakes have been bled (sp) and good flow, no air in lines.
Rotors: Brand new from the TG kit.
Could there be an issue with the brake shoes when I put them on after the swap?
For some reason I still feel like it is the left caliper though. Any ideas or suggestions?
1. Check your brake system
2. Get an alignment
3. take things apart and put it back together again haha
4. maybe your studs are coming loose holding the rotor on the knuckle
Last edited by superswamper003; 04-18-2012 at 05:49 AM. Reason: expanding my answer
04-19-2012, 01:51 AM
#57
FYI
The "A" is the passenger side spring, which has more arch.
The "B" is the driver side spring, which has less arch, like the factory spring.
The 009F set is the HD front spring.
The 008F set is the SD front spring. (1 less leaf, which you can buy separately OMED17XL).
Some people will use 2 "A" springs, and weld the 3/8" plate to the driver perch, like other spring manufacturers require.
01-20-2013, 05:52 PM
#59
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Very nice build, I actually ran along side you on I-24 one day somewhere between Clarksville, TN & Cadiz, KY (where I was headed) in a large straight truck. I was admiring your truck from my elevated view...when it dawned on me....hey that things SAS'd! 
Gave you a 
and kept on truckin! Cool to see the build on here.
Gave you a and kept on truckin! Cool to see the build on here.
Last edited by Got Smoke?; 01-20-2013 at 05:56 PM.
01-21-2013, 04:05 AM
#60
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I remember, I was thinking... what in the crap is he staring at (HA) until it dawned on me what you were looking at.
That was right before my head gasket blew (211K)...
Got her back up and running after a new engine was slapped in!
Thanks for the compliment and have a good one!
That was right before my head gasket blew (211K)...
Got her back up and running after a new engine was slapped in!
Thanks for the compliment and have a good one!
