artemyk

I'm thinking about buying a 1987 4runner with 320k miles on it. The previous owner said the engine was rebuilt , clutch replaced, and tranny swapped 40k miles ago. The suspension has a 4" lift. The price is ~$2k.
I will probably check the compression and take it for a test drive. Anything else I should take a look at?
Also, I think this is hard to say, but do y'all think this a crazy idea buying it with this many miles? How many more miles could I expect out of it?
Any opinions / thoughts greatly appreciated

I8URSVT

iTrader: (1)

22re?

i bought an '85 pickup with 320k miles last month and drove it 650 miles home, without any issues and got 22mpg going 70-75mph. The PO said the head had been replaced about 100K ago. Truck runs great, I have since put another 2k miles on it and daily drive it.

If it is apparent that the truck has been well taken care of, i wouldnt be concerned (my truck has 0 leaks and engine bay is very clean). If its beat up and dirty, than that may be an indication of the quality of maintenance it has received.

Hope that helps

Kean

.....hope for the best but prepare for the worst is my take on these types of ventures. If this purchase has the potential to cause financial/lifestyle problems, you need to keep that in mind. Used cars are always going to be a crap shoot at some level. Inspect it as best you can and decide.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Way to much money Offer them $900.00

artemyk

Thanks for all the advice!

Yep, its a 22RE. The body / interior is not in great shape, but not terrible. It's clearly been offroading. Owner says the engine itself is running strong and not burning oil.

I'm leaning towards getting if it looks good upon inspection, I think I can take the risk financially (I'm more worried about dependability and the thing stranding me somewhere remote ;-) )

Is there any easy way to check for any problems with the bottom-end / block?

osv

you said that the engine was rebuilt 40k miles ago? does he have any receipts for the work? the easiest engine check is to plug a vacuum gauge into it, and look for the needle jumping at idle... you want a smooth needle.

$2k is hardly a risk, when it comes to used cars, unless maybe it's rust belt garbage.

you are asking our opinion, but you haven't given us pics or anything to look at, you didn't even tell us where the truck is located.

artemyk

There's no documentation of the work, I guess it was done by a previous owner (i.e. not the current seller)

Here's the post http://tinyurl.com/hfkaw3q

Regarding testing the vacuum -- could I use a fuel pump tester a la http://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools...?checkfit=true (available for loan) ? And just plug into any vacuum line and let it idle?

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Interesting the seller really has no idea just what might have been done to the engine.

People use rebuilt as a umbrella term to cover a bunch of things not having anything to do with rebuilding a engine.

Best of luck no matter how it plays out

GorgeRunner

If you have a friend that knows about trucks, take them along. When you really want to buy a vehicle, sometimes you overlook things because you really want the truck. Your buddy may say, "just a second, look at this". Size up the owner, ask him questions about the truck, including why he is selling it. If you're buying it as an offroad beater, some things not working may not matter. If you are going to drive it every day, it's a different story. All those "little" things that need to be fixed will start to add up and it won't be such a deal. Speaking of deals, I agree with the previous poster whose advice to you was to ask for a better price.

If you don't buy this one, another one will come along. Plenty of old Toyotas out there.

toiyodah4WD

Rust in that part of country should not be an issue so that's good. How are the CV axles? More of a canary in a coal mine test. If they are shot, take that into consideration, if they are good and engine is sound, I'm sure 2,000 is fair. Cheapskates will always say you are paying too much...

ewong

IMHO - trucks with large lift kits - see more "wear and tear" than a bone stock truck.

IMHO - be prepared (money and time wise) for lots of stuff to chase after.

That being said - my 4Runner has 360K on the do. And getting it back on the road after being in storage for a long time - has cost a pile...

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

It is a 20 plus year old truck. I have worked on what some thought were nice and have found plenty of issues. Depends on what you are wanting to do and have the ability to do. Location will determine some price. Consider your skills, fiances and how bad you want it. Plenty of information on here to get you going in the right direction. Most issues are easily fixed and can be found on here.

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

Good thing you have proof it will haul at least 12 bags of concrete!

running 33's, wonder if it jas 4.88's or stock 4.10's

i'd pull that roof rack. 29 year old truck that has been to the moon and its had a rough rider, it's a crapshoot on how reliable it be, as any old car truck you may buy, good luck

bootscootboogie

iTrader: (1)

It's not a bad buy but think about this. You buy the truck for $1800-$2000 (you're NOT going to get it for much less. people know the market for these things and just... don't get your hopes up price wise)

With that being said. You buy it, and start fixing things here and there. You may need tires. You may want to replace some things that are bent or whatever. In any event, you're going to spend money. How much? Man at least $1500 over some period of time, short or long. Depends. My point: look in the $3500-$4000 range IF YOU CAN. You'll effectively save yourself time + money at some variable amount.

If you're just going to off road this thing, great price. If you're going to DD it, buy one nicer. IMHO.

artemyk

Thanks for all the advice, I do appreciate.

I did end up buying the truck, for $1900, which I think is a good deal (at least based on prices I have been seeing in the area). There is little rust and the engine seems solid. I did a compression test and all four cylinders came out at 120 on the dot.

I agree I will probably have to end up spending at least 1500 on this, or more, . However, I would be much more comfortable doing this once I know it is something worth putting money into, rather than spending it all upfront for... who knows what. I suspect I will be back around these forums in the near future ;-)

Here's a pic: http://imgur.com/a/N5ue4

ewong

Best of Luck with the truck!!!!

(I put my OWN truck back on the road after it was resting in a barn for years.... you don't want to know how much $ went into it... to say nothing of my time - and I know EVERYTHING about the truck as I am the original owner!)

artemyk

A little update -- the timing chain snapped about 200 miles after purchase.

Looking under the valve cover, I see the guides are the original plastic ones (destroyed on the driver's side). This truck may have gone 320k on the original chain.

I assume the valve stems are bent. Do the pistons usually make it OK through a timing chain failure?

nbl300

iTrader: (1)

There's only 1 way to find out take it apart. Can usually tell wich valves are bent by looking at the cam lobes and seeing wich valves should be open and wich shouldn't be. Sometimes the pistons are fine sometimes they're not. I'm sure most people are going to tell you full rebuild wich you can do if you want. Or you can replace only the bent valves and lap them in yourself and run it. On the other hand the chain probably did some damage when it snapped. So finding a part out and buying the engine would be a solid option something that you can hear run and inspect before you buy. Atleast you will know what to look for now

artemyk

Thanks @nbl300. I think I can get a rebuilt 22re head for pretty cheap, so if the pistons are OK I will probably just swap the head out. Don't have equipment / space / expertise to do a bottom-end rebuild myself, and I imagine paying someone else would cost several times more than the truck in the first place.

nbl300

iTrader: (1)

You could probably do it in the truck but if you don't have a lift it's probably not feasible. I have replaced rod bearings in a Saturn motor by just taking the oil pan off. Actually mixed matched different thickness bearings to take up for a beat crankshaft so anything is possible. Replacing the head is definetly easier even a used one would be fine just not the 289$ Head from China on ebay.