ZUK

iTrader: (1)

Working on the pinion end of things.....by the way , Athansinis....you have the small 60mm x 60mm
bolt pattern on your 1995. I think that is the very common pattern used on most trucks and Runners
since 1984.





Knocked out the big race. Minimal damage to the .079" washer plate. Easy to fix the burrs with a file.




The small outer pinion race came out aok...




079 shim goes in first...





...then the race. I use a bubble to get it level.



Has to match this common reference surface.




Now I can use the press to easily press the race in with no hanging up or binding.




This one I use a hammer to tap it in evenly and fully. No chisels is the rule of thumb.





....................






,...............






Take the old monster bearing off and it is a monster....bigger than a Toyota V6 bearing....bigger
than a Dana 60 bearing.




Pressing the new bearing in place with a functional homemade "tube"




Now, I'm working on the pinion /solid collar. Measuring the solid collar all around the outside and
I see about .003" variation.



Using a known flat surface, I can sand out the high spots to a degree.




2.316" is roughly going to be the total solid collar length with shims figured in....





...so I know the collar is fairly true all the way around at 2.255".....

ZUK

iTrader: (1)

Ok Athansinis----It's done and all looks well. Maintained the factory backlash value of .006" and the
same factory depth pinion shim of .079".....but I did increase the carrier bearing preload to give you
an unbreakable ring gear I dialed in 5 in/lb of cbpl.....I think I would recommend a good 80W-140
gear oil...does not have to be synthetic. No break in period because we are re-using the old ring and
pinion. Drive it like a rental
A good rtv is better than\a paper gasket IMO.....Permatex Ultra-Blue from Autozone or Checkers.




I was at it at 4am this morning. So I tried .065" worth of shim with the solid collar and it was zero
preload and actually a tiny touch wobbly so it was "loose loose". The picture above shows the results
of my 2nd attempt by reducing the shim thickness to .060"....and as expected, it did tighten up but a
little too tight at about 22 inch/pounds.




So, attempt #3, I will add .002" to the pack by taking out the.024" shim and shoving the
.026(shown above) in its place.




Adding that extra .002" was perfect...the nut is as tight as the electric impact will get it and the ppl
shown above is a smooth, repeatable 3 in/lb but with an extra long cheater bar I will be able to get
the target 10~12 in/lb. Proof that solid collars are not totally 'solid'.




A little additional tightening.....




Perfect....got 11 in/lb pinion preload START TORQUE




DING and this end is done. I failed to take pics of the rubberized seal install portion fyi.




Now to the ring gear end of things. Remove the ring from the stock 2-pinion open case. Those 12 fine
threaded flange style bolts were on very TIGHT! fyi.




File both surfaces to check for burrs and bumps.....all good here.




The lead filled plastic hammer was able to coax the ring gear on 100%.




New carrier bearings are pressed on.




referring to my notes on 8.4" diffs....92 ft/lb for the 12 ring bolts.




So, while the press is still firmly holding the LSD in place, now is a good time to apply the 92 ft/lb. Red
loctite has been also applied to all of them.




The factory oem washer plates went in fairly easy...that will change soon enough.




Very good....the backlash was measuring about .006" all around the ring gear.




It's good to have a complete washer plate selection.




By adding about .006" additional shim to each side(above and beyond the factory shims), I was
able to maintain the backlash at .006" and get some decent carrier bearing pre-load. So, as the
above picture shows, my torq wrench measured 16 in/lb to turn the pinion AND carrier bearings.
Seeing as 11 in/lbs is the actual pinion bearings then, doing the math, the other 5 is from the
carrier bearings.




Backlash values are recorded on every 3rd tooth here.




Driveside pattern check. Favoring of toe and depth is good. Used gears.... so not as pretty as a brand new gear.




Coastside--really favors toe.




..............

Athansinis

Thanks for posting all the details and photos; it's quite interesting me (and makes me really happy I didn't attempt it myself)! I had four questions for you and you answered all but one in your last post (break-in period, recommended oil weight, and rtv vs. gasket). Last question (for now, at least): I'm a fan of synthetics, so I will likely go that direction. I've read good things about the Amsoil Severe Gear 75W-140, should I still add the LSD Oil Additive if I'm using a synthetic like that?

ZUK

iTrader: (1)

That's an excellent oil, of course. Ya, go for it. Try it without the additive..and if it makes the chatter noises when you do a figure 8 then add about 1/4 of the tube. see the very end of this link to see what I am talking about http://www.gearinstalls.com/kazumaeric.htm

ZUK

iTrader: (1)

Good morning Athansinis and Yotatech---
Here's the cut/paste from Eric's Kazuma install....if the Amsoil has LSD properties then try the figure 8
without the Stalube posi-additive. I like the concept of what Eric was going for....put only enough
additive in to stop the clutch plate chatter to maximize the traction advantage. I have your
awesome diff packed up ready to ship out and the Stalube is boxed up in there somewhere

Athansinis

Looking forward to getting it back! Hopefully I can put it together next weekend. Thinking I will do the axle seals at the same time. Also, since I'm ordering fluids, I am thinking I will change the front diff and transfer oil too (I haven't changed these since I bought the truck and it wouldn't surprise me if they are original). Will I be good using the same 75w-140 in those or should I use a different weight?

ZUK

iTrader: (1)

78 pounds heading in your direction

The Amsoil can certainly be used in the front diff. I just saw an older post of yours and you have the 3.4L with auto....good combo to have
Front diff-----yep. OK to use the Amsoil.

transfercase-chain driven? atf?

Athansinis

Great!

I will do my best to get some photos as I put it back together, but no promises. Ordered fluid, seals, etc. this morning, so hopefully I will have everything before the weekend.

ZUK

iTrader: (1)

tracking # says you picked it up

Athansinis

Yup! It's back in my hands and looks great; in fact, much better than I remember. Did you paint it too or just give it a quality cleaning?

Doesn't look like I will be doing it this weekend. The parts I ordered from Toyota won't be here until Monday. Oh well. I picked up six quarts of Amsoil 75w-140 Severe Gear for the rear diff, front diff, and transfer. Hopefully no more problems with any of these components anytime in the near future. Thanks again for your work and quick turn around time. I can't wait to try it out! Now I just need to do front brakes (rotors and pads), repack front wheel bearings, valve cover gasket, reseal the oil cooler, and do the left front axle seal. Hopefully I'll have it running like new within a month.

ZUK

iTrader: (1)

Sounds good. You need to check to see if you have a chain driven transfercase

Athansinis

I am not sure. My FSM calls for "API GL-3, GL-4 or GL-5 SAE 75W-90," so I assumed the Amsoil would work. That said, it looks like the FSM also shows a chain in the component diagram.

ZUK

iTrader: (1)

You're right...I had to dig out my 2001 owner's manual and it does say 75w-90 gear oil. So, you can certainly put that higher quality Amsoil in there

I was thinking of the 99 Jeep TJ I used to have 14 years ago and it had a chain driven transfercase but it required ATF. My 01 Tacoma, I am almost certain has the original transfercase oil in it! It has 170k miles on it and I think I am ready to do a change of oils .....perhaps this winter when it is not like the fires of Hell outside

Athansinis

Thanks for double-checking!

I am thinking about starting a build thread since your rebuild was the first step in building the truck into what I've been wanting for years. I imagine I will want to steal some photos from your posts in this thread (if you don't mind) and I'll also link back to the thread so people can get a detailed view if they want it.

ZUK

iTrader: (1)

Feel free to link as many as you want.....it's all about sharing info on the internet

Athansinis

Finally started today. I made some good progress, but got a late start. As I was putting things back together, I discovered I had not ordered the o-rings (90301-88077). I called the parts department of the local dealership and they were already closed and won't reopen until Saturday morning, so I guess I am stuck for two days. No photos today as I was working in the rain a large portion of the time again. I took the hour waiting for the rtv to do the remote differential breather mod. I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out.

Athansinis

Managed to get the o-rings today (2 dealerships on opposite sides of town had 1 each), but I'm stuck about five minutes further than Thursday now. Now I cannot seem to get either axle seal to go in. I spent about 45 minutes with a 2" socket trying to get it to work but it always tries to go in at an angle. I'm going to run by Harbor Freight in a few hours and hopefully they will have the help I need. http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piec...set-95853.html

ZUK

iTrader: (1)

Wish it would rain here

Athansinis

Maybe Phoenix needs to pay me to work on my truck out there...it pretty much guarantees rain. I don't mean to complain about the rain...we definitely need it. Maybe this year our city won't be on fire like it has for the last two years in a row.

Seals are finally in, but ran out of time to finish up. Hopefully tomorrow.

Athansinis

Still fixing other problems with the truck so I haven't got it out yet for a long test drive, but I've taken it for a few short ones. I did not end up using the additive (no chattering during figure-8s). I replaced front wheel bearings, races, rotors, and pads up front last weekend and my sound is gone. So I'm not very happy with Airport Automotive for telling me the rear diff was the problem when it was apparently in the front end. That said, I am very happy with Zuk's work and I am looking forward to getting my other problems worked out so I can give the LSD a good test in the mountains.

I ordered the parts to do timing belt, valve cover gaskets, and transmission flush, so hopefully soon. It looks like I need to get new tires sooner rather than later too as I noticed some serious cracking on the inner sidewall of one of my front tires when I was working on it last weekend.