95pickup13

I have a 95 pickup with the 22re. The ignition switch was no good when I got the truck so I bought a universal switch, I wired everything up correctly on it, so it is no problem. I cut the green wires for the buzzer for when you open the door as it wasn't a feature on my new switch. But strangely enough, whenever I leave my lights on and open my door it buzzes. Not only that, it does the same thing when I press the brake pedal with the door open, but I know somehow the brakes are connected to the lights as the entire dash lights up whenever I press the brake pedal. I don't plan on fixing this because it is a useful reminder that I left my lights on.

But those aren't my real problems, my fuel pump stopped getting power to it so I ran a hot wire from my aftermarket switch to the back of the fuel pump relay so the pump would come on with the ignition. When the fuel pump relay stopped sending power, my check engine light turned off and came back on after I ran the hot wire to make the pump run. A few weeks later, I was driving and I started losing power progressively until I couldn't make it all the way home. I noticed the battery level on my dash dropping so I immediately thought it was the alternator. I got the truck to make it to just a few miles from home where I had someone come get me. I came back the next day with my battery fully charged and drove it home, the alternator decided that it would work again and I've had no problems with the alternator since. But the strange part of this incident is that the fuel pump relay decided to start working again and I no longer need the hot wire to the back of the relay. I'll know if it's stopped working if my check engine lights turns off again. So the day after it drove fine all the way home, the ignition switch stopped getting power to it. The switch is wired properly, but the power that is supposed to come from it was cut off somehow. So I ran a hot wire directly from the battery to the ignition switch.

I haven't had any problem with it since, except it idles poorly, particularly in the colder days. It smells like it is running rich as I can smell the unburned gas in the exhaust. The idle used to surge up and down and stay really high around 3000 rpms, but now the surging isn't rapid. Now it still idles high when it is cold no matter what when it decides to idle on its own without dropping to around 500 until it kills itself. Every other time I drive it, it will try to surge up to 2000-3000 rpms every time I press in the clutch to shift, other times I have to press the gas pedal to keep it from dying. This is really a problem when I get a "grandma" driver in front of me that has to ride the brakes for 2 miles until they turn and I have to slow down nearly to a complete stop while I wait. I think my idle and mixture problems are the TPS or the o2 sensor, possibly the iac, mass airflow, or a vacuum leak, but I going to check them last. But I have no idea how to test them without running codes and the bastard at the local repair shop wants to charge me a fortune to run them. I have a meter, but I don't know how to test anything other than the o2 sensor.

brianh699

If someone is trying to charge you to pull codes find a new mechanic it takes two minutes and something to jump the connector. You need to pull codes and see why you have a check engine light IMO. http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...es/index.shtml