Please read text before looking at pictures!!!


Here are a few more pictures for those interested.
I replaced the cheapo lights with 4 KC Daylighters. Although the pictures dont really show due to the camra and garage, they are EXTREMELY bright.
Crazy bright... like 4 huge spotlight beams from god lighting up everything in sight in front of the truck. Absolutely awesome.

BUT, they pull alot of juice. In picture number one, I show the fuse and wire. Its thick wire powering all 4 lights. My question is, a 20 amp fuse blows after about 5 minutes of being powered up. Its not due to a short, but the fuse is hot to the touch, as is the wire itself. (wire is warm, not hot)
A 30 amp fuse seems to be doing fine with about 20 minutes of lights burning. Like I said, there is no short, but Im sure the juice is too great for the 20. Anyone dispute this? The 30 is good, but I just want opinions on this.
My power wire is pretty darn thick.

 

Very nice pics. Looks nice and bright, the way it should have come from the factory.

 

i'll take more pics of the Rc-51 in the background!

 

Well, all right justin you talked me into it.....

 

can you give us some more detail on the wiring? Did you used the suposed-to-be-there power outlets for the stock lights? did you wire them through the roof rack? hella curious..

Nice and clean I love it.

 

That thing is awesome!

I used to have a 2000 CBR 929RR and my best friend had an 2001 RC51 with low mount slip-ons. Those bikes are absolutely the best sounding bikes ever made. I have been keeping my eye out for a good price on a used one but they seem to be holding their value exceptionally well, i haven't found an 01 with low mileage yet under $7000.

 

Its a beautiful bike bro, thats for sure. (in sight and in feel)
Just got back from an 800 mile road trip on her...
I could spend the rest of my life riding that bike around finding the countrys best roads.

Anyhow, back to the FJ.

K OS, I ran all the wiring through the roof rack. (major pain in the butt, but worth it in the end)

There are no power outlets for lights up there. I had to run the power and ground wires through the long roof rack rail, and get above the headliner and drill a hole for a wire escape into the cab FROM inside the roof rack rail. Ill show you in a picture, if I can. Follow hot wire from battery, up to lights.

OK, here it is. I tried using "paint" for this....

 

are you using a relay? that seems like a lot of current going through the switch...could be dangerous...

 

couple of things. I would upgrade the ground from the battery to the frame/body. Second, how many watts are each light 100w? watts = amps x volts, so amps = watts/volts....so 400/12 = 33 amp draw. look at this chart to determine what size wire you need to run. With a DC system you need to count the distance from the battery to the lights, BACK to the battery.

and you either need to run the switch to a HD relay, or a small light-duty continous duty solenoid...

 

-What size (AWG?) wire, looks like 8 maybe?
-How long is the wire?
-What is the wattage of the KCs?

Also, like Garrett said, if you are pulling that much wattage through a switch, your next mod had better be a good class C fire extinguisher...

Lamm

 

I just bought an amp install kit at Kragen autoparts for $30 and it came with a 8 Gauge power supply cord with a built in 50 amp fuse, probably would be perfect for your lights...

 

Which KC's did you buy?

 

The ground is the blue line in the picture. It is grounded to the frame under the plastic corner panel on the front left side, near the windshield.
(not the battery)

I will look into a relay. Everything seems fine, so far though.

 

You have a hot line going to your to switch that will catch on fire over time. I expect the hot line to melt and cause a short which will ultimately cause a fire either in the bay or in the cabin. Either which way you're in a good position.

I highly recommend you disconnecting your wiring and install a proper wiring setup with a relay installed. Make sure you use a heavy duty setup and have 2 circuits for each pair of lights instead of 1 for all 4.

If you're unsure on how to make a quality relay kit, buy an aftermarket one that supports your power load. (not sure what the # watt you have).

Good luck

 

I agree with this 100%. Buy two relays. Run two lights off each relay. You can still wire it up so that your single switch powers both relays thus all 4 lights. Get that 30-amp carrying wire out of the cab!

Keep in mind: Improper wiring job + Fire = No Insurance $ + No vehicle!

 

I understand that, but you should add a short wire from the battery to the frame to ensure that you have adequite ground for everything in the vehicle that uses chassis ground; toyota puts a ground for their needs, you just upped the needs a bunch.