IPF Roof lights w/basket quick disconnect
06-13-2009, 07:34 PM
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IPF Roof lights w/basket quick disconnect
Here's some pics of my new lightbar (homemade) with IPF 100w lamps.
I have ALOT more pics of the quick disconnect and how I ran the wiring through the roof. I will post them if anyone is interested.
Daytime
Roof lights off
Roof lights on
From the side
The Mothership has landed
Full Power
I have ALOT more pics of the quick disconnect and how I ran the wiring through the roof. I will post them if anyone is interested.
Daytime
Roof lights off
Roof lights on
From the side
The Mothership has landed
Full Power
Last edited by DIHOWARD; 06-13-2009 at 08:08 PM.
06-15-2009, 08:56 AM
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Not a problem, I can do it tonight. check back later.
Be warned! it did involve drilling a hole in the roof. Also, It helps if you have a sunroof.
Be warned! it did involve drilling a hole in the roof. Also, It helps if you have a sunroof.
06-16-2009, 09:15 PM
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sweet... what you need now is some green LED lights in the grill to complete the mother ship... ( I'd say blue LEDs but the cops might not like it)
06-17-2009, 05:13 PM
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(Photos)Quick disconnect for basket lights
I'll be more than happy to share any detail of this install.
Sure Seal 5 pin connector-4 power with 1 common ground.
Connector halves together
Roof grommet (PCV Valve)
Run into cabin along sunroof.
Relay bracket.
Run into the Blue Sea Mod w/relay.
Sure Seal 5 pin connector-4 power with 1 common ground.
Connector halves together
Roof grommet (PCV Valve)
Run into cabin along sunroof.
Relay bracket.
Run into the Blue Sea Mod w/relay.
Last edited by DIHOWARD; 06-17-2009 at 05:15 PM.
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06-17-2009, 07:37 PM
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looks great! Where did you get the quick disconnects? I've been wanting to wire my lights on my roof rack for the longest time but haven't really seen any quick disconnects like that around.
06-18-2009, 03:47 AM
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Sure Seal Connectors
http://www.suresealconnections.com/.
Warning:you have to make the connectors yourself. They give you the plugs and the pins separate.
http://www.suresealconnections.com/.
Warning:you have to make the connectors yourself. They give you the plugs and the pins separate.
06-18-2009, 10:00 AM
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Not very hard...If you have the right tools.
the crimps on the pins require an (Google) "Open Barrel Crimping Pliers". I was unable to find one in any of the typical retail stores. A guy at work lent me his.
How many wires are you going to be running?
the crimps on the pins require an (Google) "Open Barrel Crimping Pliers". I was unable to find one in any of the typical retail stores. A guy at work lent me his.
How many wires are you going to be running?
06-20-2009, 05:53 AM
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I'm not really sure yet. I'm still trying to decide how many lights i want up there. Maybe 2 in the front, 2 in the back, and 1 on each side. Or 2 on every side. I'm not sure but no more than 4 wires not including grounds.
05-16-2010, 08:09 AM
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hey man i just got my 4 ipf 968s and was wondering if you used one switch or 2 for all 4 lights? i want to use one but didnt know if was a good ideal. i got the pilot rocker switch w/ led i want to use too. should i just cut out the switch harness and put in my switch?
Thanks man and looks really good.
Thanks man and looks really good.
05-16-2010, 03:21 PM
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I used 1 switch that controls 2 relays.
For the most part, I used the IPF harness with the Toyota OEM fog switches.
For the most part, I used the IPF harness with the Toyota OEM fog switches.
Last edited by DIHOWARD; 05-16-2010 at 03:27 PM.
01-28-2011, 08:09 AM
#17
1) How exactly did you wire the 2 relays to one switch?
2) Can I wire up the 4 light to one switch without the "Blue Sea Mod"?
3) Any thoughts on how I can run the wires into the cab/engine compartment if I don't have a sunroof?
4) Finally, how exactly did you make that light bar? I have a Yakima rack too and I don't feel like paying $120 for 4 light mounts.
Thanks in advance!!
01-28-2011, 10:01 AM
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I did modify the wiring harness that came with the IPF lights.
1. to use 1 switch with 2 relays, just crimp both of the power leads to 1 spade connector. the Toyota factory switch can handle the load no problems.
All 4 lights are on 1 switch.
2.Blue Sea Mod is not necessary, more of a convenience. If you look at the picture of the 2 relays, you can see the rubber plug in the firewall. This is where I ran the wires through. wires from the roof come down the passenger side A pillar, and through the plug located behind the glove box. I did the fuse box there so I would have an accessable power supply on the passenger side of the vehicle. By the way, the fuse box is also on it's own relay.
3. Great lengths have been taken to run wires from the roof. I guess it depends if you can tolerate visible wires. Over the side and down the B pillar might work.
4. That light bar took me 45 minutes to make. 1.5" aluminum angle attached with Yakima bar clamps, you know the ones, they wrap around the bar and have a bolt that passes through it, simple. Give yourself enough room for at least 4 clamps. Depending on the size of your lights, mine started to "roll" backwards at 70 mph.
Hope this answered some of your questions.
1. to use 1 switch with 2 relays, just crimp both of the power leads to 1 spade connector. the Toyota factory switch can handle the load no problems.
All 4 lights are on 1 switch.
2.Blue Sea Mod is not necessary, more of a convenience. If you look at the picture of the 2 relays, you can see the rubber plug in the firewall. This is where I ran the wires through. wires from the roof come down the passenger side A pillar, and through the plug located behind the glove box. I did the fuse box there so I would have an accessable power supply on the passenger side of the vehicle. By the way, the fuse box is also on it's own relay.
3. Great lengths have been taken to run wires from the roof. I guess it depends if you can tolerate visible wires. Over the side and down the B pillar might work.
4. That light bar took me 45 minutes to make. 1.5" aluminum angle attached with Yakima bar clamps, you know the ones, they wrap around the bar and have a bolt that passes through it, simple. Give yourself enough room for at least 4 clamps. Depending on the size of your lights, mine started to "roll" backwards at 70 mph.
Hope this answered some of your questions.
01-31-2011, 05:57 AM
#19
I did modify the wiring harness that came with the IPF lights.
1. to use 1 switch with 2 relays, just crimp both of the power leads to 1 spade connector. the Toyota factory switch can handle the load no problems.
All 4 lights are on 1 switch.
2.Blue Sea Mod is not necessary, more of a convenience. If you look at the picture of the 2 relays, you can see the rubber plug in the firewall. This is where I ran the wires through. wires from the roof come down the passenger side A pillar, and through the plug located behind the glove box. I did the fuse box there so I would have an accessable power supply on the passenger side of the vehicle. By the way, the fuse box is also on it's own relay.
3. Great lengths have been taken to run wires from the roof. I guess it depends if you can tolerate visible wires. Over the side and down the B pillar might work.
4. That light bar took me 45 minutes to make. 1.5" aluminum angle attached with Yakima bar clamps, you know the ones, they wrap around the bar and have a bolt that passes through it, simple. Give yourself enough room for at least 4 clamps. Depending on the size of your lights, mine started to "roll" backwards at 70 mph.
Hope this answered some of your questions.
1. to use 1 switch with 2 relays, just crimp both of the power leads to 1 spade connector. the Toyota factory switch can handle the load no problems.
All 4 lights are on 1 switch.
2.Blue Sea Mod is not necessary, more of a convenience. If you look at the picture of the 2 relays, you can see the rubber plug in the firewall. This is where I ran the wires through. wires from the roof come down the passenger side A pillar, and through the plug located behind the glove box. I did the fuse box there so I would have an accessable power supply on the passenger side of the vehicle. By the way, the fuse box is also on it's own relay.
3. Great lengths have been taken to run wires from the roof. I guess it depends if you can tolerate visible wires. Over the side and down the B pillar might work.
4. That light bar took me 45 minutes to make. 1.5" aluminum angle attached with Yakima bar clamps, you know the ones, they wrap around the bar and have a bolt that passes through it, simple. Give yourself enough room for at least 4 clamps. Depending on the size of your lights, mine started to "roll" backwards at 70 mph.
Hope this answered some of your questions.
01-31-2011, 12:09 PM
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Thanks! That does help a lot! Can you share any more detail/pics about that light bar that you made? I think it is a really cool idea and would save me some $$$. Did you say that 4 clamps is enough or do I need more to keep the lights from rolling back a high speeds? Finally I see that you only have a total of 5 wires (4 power, 1 ground) running into the cab/engine bay, did you just splice all 4 ground wires together into 1? Do you have any sort of a diagram that would help me with the wiring? Thanks again!
