i was trying to get my toyota running after it set around for like 6 years and when i test the electrical for the injectors with just a normal light tester it gets power but when i test it with the noid light tester the GM PFI one no light shows up at all...

any suggestions on what it might be?
i also did replace the fuel pump because it was bad

 

after sitting for 6 years it might be a good idea to send the injectors off for cleaning

 

ya i have been thinking about it but it might just be a wiring problem because when you use the noid light tester its suppost to flash but not light came on at all with it... and it says that if its a steady light or no light at all then theres a problem in your electrical system

 

Might check the injector wire splices, especially where the ground wires combine and run back to the ECU. You may have power to the injectors, but you need a ground connection as well to complete the circuit:



- http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showfl...&Number=740084

 

Have the same problem with my 86. i took it to the shop yesterday cause i just couldnt mess with it anymore i get frustrated very easily and so i should get an asnwer today ill let u know what they told me bit just like 4crawler said it aint grounding or the ecm is bad and not sending a signal

 

Here is how I went about my injector problem. I would tend to think your wire crimps are bad like posted above.

From my 88 build, page 27. Check to see which injectors you have from the link below.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This is going to be my Fuel Injector notes page.

Good wiring diagram...........https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f131...e-help-178975/

Different Injectors.............https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ectors-127606/

Correct Ground Locations....https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f131...-guide-194413/

Pinout for ECU.... ..............http://media.photobucket.com/image/1...outdiagram.jpg
Add Ground to ECU by Trailgear..http://www.trail-gear.com/vbulletin/...ead.php?t=9973

Redo wire connections....................................... .................................................. ...Removed,spliced and soldered connections on picture below.
Externally Ground ECU............................................... ............................................. Ran ground from ECU case to body.
Check all grounds........................................... .................................................. ....Checked Grounds from above link.
Check wire harness ground on intake manifold.......................................... ...................Checked Good
Check Solenoid Resistor. Haynes page 4-10 13.22b............................................ ...... ..Tested Good, supposed to have 2-3 Ohms, I have 3 Ohms.
Check EFI Main Relay Haynes page 4-9................................................. .....................Tested Good Supposed to have 60-80, I have 71 Ohms.
Ohms for 86 Injectors are 1.5-3.0 all others are listed on Haynes page 4-2........................All tested 3 Ohms. Make sure your year of injectors.
Run resistance checks on harness........................................... ..................................Ran resistance test and passed, believe connections wont pass proper voltage.
#10 and #20 are apparently the ground pins on ECU. Hoping not have to go that far.


Here is something I found on Toyota Nation. Sounds alot like my problem.

[quote]I found the problem!!! The ECU and Igniter are not component that fail very often, the problem is the wire. The main engine harness contains two wires from the ECU that are spliced and split into 4 wires at the injectors. For some reason Toyota decided to splice this circuit inside the largest portion of the wire bundle. The problem with this is that where the two wires (white with blue tracer, and white with red tracer) from the ECU are spliced with the four wires from the injectors(same colors as above), the insulation is removed exposing the copper conductor to potential corrosion and breakage. Upon inspection, these wires may appear to be fine, and may even ring out when tested with a continuity meter, but in my case, the corrosion had progressed beneath the wire insulation for 8-10 inches, and compromised the copper and it's ability to carry the pulse signal to ground through the ECU circuit.
The fix is to remove the tape and protective coating from the main harness between the intake manifold and the fuse box under the hood, you may notice green corrosion on the wires in question where the mechanical crimp splice is made. 10-12 inches of these wires may need to be removed and replaced with new copper conductors. Both sets of conductors from the injectors are common, so you'll need to figure out how to properly connect the two leads from the ECU to the 4 leads from the injectors. In my case I trimmed the wire back until I had good continuity to both ends, and soldered new leads on, encasing them in 3M scothcote electrical coating and heat shrink insulated tubing.

My 87 4Runner runs like a charm. I still can't believe Toyota engineered it that way, but this fix is much cheaper than replacing igniters and ECU's. Hope this helps anyone/everyone. [Quote}


Here is a problem. The crimp can look good but needs replaced.

 

well i checked all the splice point and they had absolutely no corrosion on them cause they were sealed with heat shrink tape