I checked the coil wire last night with no luck, I think I'm going to head over to my shop tomorrow night and tear into it, again.

 

So I went to my shop tonight and tore the Yota apart. I took off my aircleaner, battery, spark plug wires, ground cables, and every connector to every component. I tapped out all of ny ground bolt holes and scrubbed around then, then took all of the bolts and ran them through dies. Every ground bolt and electrical connection got dielectric grease when put back in place. Now I'm going to drive it for a few days and see what happens. I picked up a new muffler, but if this doesn't work I'm not going to risk destroying another one.

 

So, the short in the system is gone. I've driven it extensively yesterday and this morning without any issues. I also put a new muffler on today too. Here is my old one after the backfire.

 

I am glad you got it!!

Sure would be nice to know just where the problem was.

 

I'm sure it was a ground. I tapped out the bolt holes for the neg battery cable to body, body to frame, body to motor mount, and body to head. It was most likely one of those because that area has seen a lot of work recently.

 

Your last post confirmed my original suspicions, I would have said ground also, if not the ignition switch. I would still suggest looking into building a proper starter relay circuit, I was having similar grounding problems, then fixed them only to immediately have my ignition switch go out. Stock wiring sends too much amperage through the ignition switch to the starter solenoid, it's a relatively simple mod to add a 30 amp relay to the circuit, and will extend the life of your current and all future ignition switches.

On a side note; holy backfire bombs batman!!!! Never seen stock exhaust 'splode like that without a SERIOUS cat or tail pipe plug issue!

 

I actually added in that 30 amp relay a few days ago just to be safe. No problems since, if you look at the crease on the left side next to my foot, that is where it wrapped around my spring mount.

 

Ground issues can be a bear to figure out. I knew older fords had alot of dirty ground issues but this is first ive heard of a toyota doin it. But a lil rust goes a long ways at iterupting electrical current.

 

In my case it was aftermarket wiring and a little rust; it's easy to produce ground loops that interfere with relay operation and sensor readings. Turn on electric fan, engine cuts out, turn on lights, electric fan cuts out, lol. Ground points in electrical diagrams are called "common" for a reason, if you have multiple loads pulling grounds from different spots, it can change the ground reference, and your least "common" ground will create a ground loop. If you get alternator whine through the stereo, it can either be the diode on the alternator, or ground loops, and is likely both.