First gen multiple electrical issues.
Feb 6, 2014 | 10:46 PM
#1
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From: Moscow, ID
First gen multiple electrical issues.
I have an 83 pickup that has had two days worth of electrical issues. My charge and brake lights came on yesterday after I ran in to a store for about 10 minutes. When I jumped in the truck to leave there was no ignition when I turned the key. Starter didn't turn over, but I had power. I had an issue with the fusible link a few weeks back., so I figured the replacement burnt too. I messed with the wire and the truck turned over, but the lights came on and stayed on. Currently have the charge and brake lights on nonstop. I replaced the alternator and voltage regulator this morning. Lights went off for about 10 minutes. Now they are back. I was coming home from a friends place and list my stereo, then blower, then the wipers slowed down to a crawl. If the truck is shut off it won't start for at least ten minutes, then it starts like nothing is wrong. If I turn on my turn signal, my stereo shuts off, then comes back on. I don't even know where to start. Where is the charge lamp relay on a first gen and how can I test it?
Feb 7, 2014 | 01:13 AM
#2
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From: ATL!
test for unopen circuits with a test light between the battery cable and post, confirm all is off when expected. don't forget turn off the interior light if you do this.
then pull fuses for your accessory functions like radio, wipers, to eliminate those circuits and see if the problem persists. could be shorted signal bulb, bad ground, shorted relay stuck closed, grounding out somewhere like that link you mentioned. some stuck relays can be discovered by tapping in the relay box and listening for a sticking switch to pop and finally switch as it should.
if you can't isolate a faulty circuit could be fusebox. this of course is provided the new alt and regulator are confirmed a.o.k. that haps too. new bad part. good luck
then pull fuses for your accessory functions like radio, wipers, to eliminate those circuits and see if the problem persists. could be shorted signal bulb, bad ground, shorted relay stuck closed, grounding out somewhere like that link you mentioned. some stuck relays can be discovered by tapping in the relay box and listening for a sticking switch to pop and finally switch as it should.
if you can't isolate a faulty circuit could be fusebox. this of course is provided the new alt and regulator are confirmed a.o.k. that haps too. new bad part. good luck
Last edited by tj884Rdlx; Feb 7, 2014 at 01:19 AM.
Feb 7, 2014 | 01:28 AM
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Why did you feel the need to replace the alternator and voltage regulator??
While it was out you did have it tested??
You have checked the belt has not loosened up?? As you say it did work for 10 minutes !!
Did you clean all the electrical connections.All fuses check to see if they are open?? Tight in the sockets ??
Battery terminals Bright and tight?? Loose a cell in the battery??
What is the condition of the Wire coming off The Alternator B terminal??
Have you replaced all the ground cables ??
Being the age of this truck all the battery cables should have been replaced long ago.
Do you have a multimeter ?? if not a great time to buy one!!!
While it was out you did have it tested??
You have checked the belt has not loosened up?? As you say it did work for 10 minutes !!
Did you clean all the electrical connections.All fuses check to see if they are open?? Tight in the sockets ??
Battery terminals Bright and tight?? Loose a cell in the battery??
What is the condition of the Wire coming off The Alternator B terminal??
Have you replaced all the ground cables ??
Being the age of this truck all the battery cables should have been replaced long ago.
Do you have a multimeter ?? if not a great time to buy one!!!
Feb 7, 2014 | 01:29 AM
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test for unopen circuits with a test light between the battery cable and post, confirm all is off when expected. don't forget turn off the interior light if you do this.
then pull fuses for your accessory functions like radio, wipers, to eliminate those circuits and see if the problem persists. could be shorted signal bulb, bad ground, shorted relay stuck closed, grounding out somewhere like that link you mentioned. some stuck relays can be discovered by tapping in the relay box and listening for a sticking switch to pop and finally switch as it should.
if you can't isolate a faulty circuit could be fusebox. this of course is provided the new alt and regulator are confirmed a.o.k. that haps too. new bad part. good luck
then pull fuses for your accessory functions like radio, wipers, to eliminate those circuits and see if the problem persists. could be shorted signal bulb, bad ground, shorted relay stuck closed, grounding out somewhere like that link you mentioned. some stuck relays can be discovered by tapping in the relay box and listening for a sticking switch to pop and finally switch as it should.
if you can't isolate a faulty circuit could be fusebox. this of course is provided the new alt and regulator are confirmed a.o.k. that haps too. new bad part. good luck
Feb 7, 2014 | 09:38 PM
#7
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From: Moscow, ID
Why did you feel the need to replace the alternator and voltage regulator??
Last time I had an issue like this I solved it by replacing both, it was on my old truck though. Also the housing for the voltage regulator was pretty corroded.
While it was out you did have it tested??
No I didn't think to have it tested, just wanted to get it out and replaced.
You have checked the belt has not loosened up??
Jumped in my truck this morning to head to work and the battery was dead. Found my alt belt broke last night. I had another one laying around so I replaced it. It's charging now, but the lights are still on.
Did you clean all the electrical connections.All fuses check to see if they are open?? Tight in the sockets ??
Checked all of my fuses and found my cig fuse burned. Everything else was nice and tight, reasonably clean, so I cleaned them anyway.
Battery terminals Bright and tight?? Loose a cell in the battery??
Bought my battery last summer, keep everything nice and clean, zero corrosion. How do I check to see if I lost a cell?
What is the condition of the Wire coming off The Alternator B terminal??
Wire off the b terminal is old, but well covered, not fluid soaked or split. I cleaned the connections while changing it.
Have you replaced all the ground cables ??
I have not replaced the ground cables yet, I've been dealing with clutch issues until this week.
Being the age of this truck all the battery cables should have been replaced long ago.
I've replaced the negative cable, but i haven't been able to find a suitable replacement for the positive.
Do you have a multimeter ?? if not a great time to buy one!!!
I do have a multimeter, it's just in my storage, which I can't get to without my truck.
Last time I had an issue like this I solved it by replacing both, it was on my old truck though. Also the housing for the voltage regulator was pretty corroded.
While it was out you did have it tested??
No I didn't think to have it tested, just wanted to get it out and replaced.
You have checked the belt has not loosened up??
Jumped in my truck this morning to head to work and the battery was dead. Found my alt belt broke last night. I had another one laying around so I replaced it. It's charging now, but the lights are still on.
Did you clean all the electrical connections.All fuses check to see if they are open?? Tight in the sockets ??
Checked all of my fuses and found my cig fuse burned. Everything else was nice and tight, reasonably clean, so I cleaned them anyway.
Battery terminals Bright and tight?? Loose a cell in the battery??
Bought my battery last summer, keep everything nice and clean, zero corrosion. How do I check to see if I lost a cell?
What is the condition of the Wire coming off The Alternator B terminal??
Wire off the b terminal is old, but well covered, not fluid soaked or split. I cleaned the connections while changing it.
Have you replaced all the ground cables ??
I have not replaced the ground cables yet, I've been dealing with clutch issues until this week.
Being the age of this truck all the battery cables should have been replaced long ago.
I've replaced the negative cable, but i haven't been able to find a suitable replacement for the positive.
Do you have a multimeter ?? if not a great time to buy one!!!
I do have a multimeter, it's just in my storage, which I can't get to without my truck.
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Feb 8, 2014 | 04:31 AM
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Ok now this is very interesting two people different issues
One is a 83 Pick up with a no charge issue.
The charge relay is just a relay that when the systems is charging the coil is energized the contacts are in the open position when the coil is no longer energized the contacts close the lights come on.
This is a very simple explanation no need to go into relay logic or explain how it also lights in a over charge condition.
With your battery dead it could have frozen also alternators do not like trying to charge a dead battery .
Battery should be charged with a charger to full charge fore sure with a new alternator .
With a no charge issue your pretty much screwed without a multimeter as you have no idea what is going on.
Just because the B terminal wire looked good what happens is it gets old and brittle from the thermal cycling to the point it no longer conducts.
Bottom line is you need to figure why you have a no charge problem.
Is the alternator charging just not reaching the battery .??
is the light on because of fused contacts or burnt out coil??
One is a 83 Pick up with a no charge issue.
The charge relay is just a relay that when the systems is charging the coil is energized the contacts are in the open position when the coil is no longer energized the contacts close the lights come on.
This is a very simple explanation no need to go into relay logic or explain how it also lights in a over charge condition.
With your battery dead it could have frozen also alternators do not like trying to charge a dead battery .
Battery should be charged with a charger to full charge fore sure with a new alternator .
With a no charge issue your pretty much screwed without a multimeter as you have no idea what is going on.
Just because the B terminal wire looked good what happens is it gets old and brittle from the thermal cycling to the point it no longer conducts.
Bottom line is you need to figure why you have a no charge problem.
Is the alternator charging just not reaching the battery .??
is the light on because of fused contacts or burnt out coil??
Feb 8, 2014 | 05:59 AM
#9
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From: Moscow, ID
I'm putting the battery on a charger after work so I can get a full charge. And I'm going to get my multimeter after work also. I'm also going to go ahead and make a new cable for my b terminal too.
Feb 13, 2014 | 07:41 PM
#10
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From: Moscow, ID
So I've been messing with my electrical system for a few days now and it has gotten better, but still isn't quite okay. I replaced the positive cable, so both are new . Tore apart my dash and found some wiring for an aftermarket air conditioning system. Removed all of it. I just drive 14 miles and stopped to check my mail, jumped back in and no start. Volt meter read 11.20 at the battery, and I waited for about 2 minutes, tried again, and it started. As it ran the voltage on the battery dropped down to about 10.5 before I shut it off again. Now that I've let it sit for 15 minutes with the volt meter attached to the battery and it's back up to 11.57 and starts fine and slowly rising. Any ideas?
Feb 13, 2014 | 11:47 PM
#12
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
With the engine running you should have @ 12.5 VDC at the lowest point you should have 13 to 13.5 VDC on the high end
This is with the normal electrical loads on.
Headlights Blower motor
This is with the normal electrical loads on.
Headlights Blower motor
Feb 15, 2014 | 08:31 AM
#13
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From: Moscow, ID
So I went by autozone yesterday before work and had them check my battery, them my charging system. My battery is fine, but they sold me a bad alternator and a bad voltage regulator. Once I get the opportunity, I'll swap them out again. Spent two days chasing phantom shorts to find out that autozone screwed up. That's the last time I buy anything from them.
Feb 15, 2014 | 12:13 PM
#14
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
In this day we get poor quality rebuilds from just about every one.
Quality control has fallen by the wayside it seems.
Just remember to charge your battery before your new alternator.
Quality control has fallen by the wayside it seems.
Just remember to charge your battery before your new alternator.
Feb 27, 2014 | 04:16 PM
#16
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From: Moscow, ID
So after I got two wrong alternators and one bad correct one, as sell as a bad voltage regulator, it is fixed. But on my way to work this morning I lost power for a second. Everything shut off, then came back on, causing a backfire that blew open my muffler. It was when I hit my blinker to turn left, as soon as it came on, power went out. Any ideas? The loss of all electrical was just for a split second. When I left work, it was losing power like that off and on for a few minutes, then drove fine coming home.
Last edited by warmonger88; Feb 27, 2014 at 09:14 PM.
Mar 1, 2014 | 04:35 AM
#19
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From: Moscow, ID
So I wasn't able to find anything, but it did cut out yesterday but I didn't have my blinker on. It also did it once this morning while warming up. I wonder if it was coincidence when it cut out the first time as I was changing lanes.
Last edited by warmonger88; Mar 1, 2014 at 04:36 AM.
Mar 1, 2014 | 10:10 AM
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
It sure sounds like a loose ground connection.
You have a good one to the inner fender.
A good solid one to the steel part of the engine block.
Someplace something is loose .
I think the blinker thing was just pure chance . luck of the draw.
Another thing did all the alternator changing maybe bump the coil wire??
With those boots on I did that once pulled it out far enough it did pretty much the same thing till it burned off.
That could shut the ignition off but not the rest of the electrical system
You have a good one to the inner fender.
A good solid one to the steel part of the engine block.
Someplace something is loose .
I think the blinker thing was just pure chance . luck of the draw.
Another thing did all the alternator changing maybe bump the coil wire??
With those boots on I did that once pulled it out far enough it did pretty much the same thing till it burned off.
That could shut the ignition off but not the rest of the electrical system
