Ok, my truck (1989 V6 WD 5spd LB) wouldn’t start at work yesterday at lunch time and when I tried to go home. I replaced the alternator contacts about 13-14 months ago and the starter contacts about 6-7 months ago, thanks to this site and the people. At lunch time I would turn the key and it would try to start but wouldn’t, I tried this a few times and every other key turn I would hear a click and no start and other times it would try to start but would not run. I had it towed home and checked everything out, took off the distributor cap and found white residue on the rotor and the cap contacts, which I sanded down (both the rotor and contacts) placed everything back together and its working perfectly fine now. I’m planning on purchasing the OEM cap, rotor, and cap seal, and replacing it in the next week or two. The cap and cap seal don’t seem difficult but the rotor is where I am a little hesitant because of what I have read after performing a search about distributors and rotors on this site, namely the top dead center aspect (I think that is what it is called, please correct me if I am wrong). Is there write up available with replacing the distributor rotor? With pictures?

Thanks in advance.

 

it should only fit on thier one way...
as long as you dont take out the distributor, and dont turn the rotor button when you replace it. should pull off the cap, and rotor, and put the new rotor back on (should only go one way) and put the cap back on, and off you go.

 

If I understand correctly you have a running engine and are just replacing cap and rotor? If this is the case. I believe you don't need to worry about the timing aspect. Just make sure to put the rotor on in the same position as the old one you take off.

 

Thanks 04 Rocko Taco and Buck01. Yes the engine is running fine and I will just be replacing the rotor, cap, and rubber cap seal. Replacing the rotor sounds easier than I had thought.

 

I noticed in my Haynes manual, when replacing the cap/rotor, it says to "Apply a small dab of silicone lubricant to each terminal before installing the cap." Can I use the stuff that comes in the spray can?

 

i would make sure the stuff is di-electric. That stuff that autozone sells in the little packets for like always has worked for me. It's the same stuff they try to sell you with spark plugs.

the spray on stuff i would think will not conduct well, and not be think enough to even matter anyway.

I believe even the rotor will only go on one way as well as the cap.

Make sure though before you take off the plug wires you label them. or take the cap off the distributor will the wires still attached, put the new cap on and then transfer the wires one by on to the new cap in the same positions. It's real easy to mix them up if your not familiar with the engine and firing order to swap 2 or 4 around.

 

when you get the new cap and rotor ask for the ones with brass contacts its about 3 dollars more but they last alot longer and provide better contact