I've got power and a good starter on my '85 manual pickup but I can't get it to crank. I hear a relay clicking in the engine compartment fuse box when I turn the key. I've replaced the ignition switch recently and that didn't do it. I can hot jump from the battery to the starter (it's fun but not a solution)

Before this problem was irreversible (ie no start) I had this problem intermittently and I would wiggle the fusible link and 80amp fuse and the thing would come back to life. Before the thing refused to start my dash lights said my parking brake was permanently on, my horn stopped working and the light behind my heater died. My dome light doesn't get power and I've never had backup lights.

I was thinking maybe the clutch safety switch but I don't seem to have one on the pedal. Then I thought the starter relay but I don't seem to have that either.
Sooooooo maybe a ground somewhere?

I'm at wits end so any suggestions would be nice.

 

time for a Mulitmeter !!

Just a thought does this have a after market alarm or left over parts of one??

Check for broken wires and a loose connections under your fuse block

It could be any or all of those things you listed.

See if you have voltage to the starter solenoid with ignition switch in start.

That gives you a starting point.

It never hurts to up grade your ground cables.

Battery terminals clean and tight!!

One step at a time

 

The 85s dont have a Starter Relay newer years have the relays. Something I just found out recently on mine. I am not sure how it gets from the ignition to the starter. I would check your 80 amp fuse and fusible link. If it isnt completely dead, as some power to the truck, I would check Ignition Switch. The 85s are a little different.

 

thanks guys,
I got 12v out of the solenoid contact, and as I had already ruled out my starter as the source of problem I went back to the battery.
Got it load tested and that was the problem, talk about going full circle for an easy issue.


cg

 

Glad you got it figured out.
However, since you do not have a starter relay, you're running the approx 12Amps current needed to energize the starter solenoid from battery, through long wire to cabin, to ignition switch ST1 contacts, back to engine compartment and eventually to starter solenoid. All these mean:

• Lots of resistance, and hence voltage drop, so you get less power to actuate solenoid plunger and fully close its contacts, AND
• your beating up your ignition switch ST1 contacts with those 12Amps

I suggest you add a starter relay so that solenoid coil current will simply go from fuse block, to relay, to starter solenoid- all within a couple of feet from each other in the engine compartment. Search Yota Tech how to do that or go so KidV's post in T4r.org.

 

Hi
had radom starting issues on my v6. So today ehrn it wouldnot start checked battery terimals(brand new battery and alternator). Heard solonid clicking. checked contections on starter. all very tight then spotted a spark plug wedged between starter and chassis. what a job to get out. then started after cranking for 30secs. now off to order new leads and dizzy cap.