General Electrical & Lighting Related Topics Ask here for electrical, wiring, and lighting info for your rig that could apply to all years

$26 Digital Fan controller ...

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Nov 16, 2011 | 07:18 PM
  #21  
Zelephant's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,018
Likes: 2
From: New Britain, CT
Dang, I want one of those now! What a deal! Sub'd!
Reply
Old Nov 16, 2011 | 07:19 PM
  #22  
Outsane's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
15 Year Member
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,711
Likes: 4
From: San Diego
using an UNO for development .... then I will probably solder with a teensy..

but i will probably keep the bread board for a while
Reply
Old Nov 16, 2011 | 07:24 PM
  #23  
Outsane's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
15 Year Member
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,711
Likes: 4
From: San Diego
Originally Posted by aviator
LCE/LED graphic displays? whaT are we talking about a KITT dash?
Toyota had an LCD binnacle avail. on SR5s from 84-88 or so... no one liked them lol...

Outsane contact them if they have'nt sent it out yet you may be able to change to the Farenheit controller or just arrange to exchange it...
well I like the graphic display...gives me something to tinker with and its functional..
Reply
Old Nov 17, 2011 | 10:18 AM
  #24  
aviator's Avatar
Contributing Member
 
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 11,334
Likes: 0
From: COTKU,Ontario,Canada
Originally Posted by Outsane
well I like the graphic display...gives me something to tinker with and its functional..
Well if you can make it better... biggest complaint I recall was when the sun hit it at certain angles it was almost unreadable...
Reply
Old Nov 17, 2011 | 12:15 PM
  #25  
irab88's Avatar
Registered User
15 Year Member
Liked
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 6,499
Likes: 37
yeah, thats a big issue with any backlit lcd. try a front-lit or non-lit display. might be able to see it in direct sunlight
Reply
Old Nov 17, 2011 | 12:19 PM
  #26  
Outsane's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
15 Year Member
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,711
Likes: 4
From: San Diego
will have to play with placement
Reply
Old Nov 17, 2011 | 12:48 PM
  #27  
worshipmentor's Avatar
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 339
Likes: 0
From: Meridian Mississippi
WOW this is an awesome find! I like this way better than the Hayden unit. 2 questions before I buy one though.
1) how long is the probe feed wire/could it be lengthened if needed.
2)I am looking to not only be able to run my "Villager" fan on low for engine cooling but would like to be able to have it kick in on high from head pressure on the A/C system (say at 250-275PSI). Ideally it would come on low fan anytime either the A/C is on or the engine requires cooling AND be able to kick into high speed fan when A/C head pressure reaches a preset point. Heavy truck systems use a "trianary" or "bianary" switch to control head pressure driven fan operation but ive never seen it on a passenger vehicle.
ANY thoughts???????
Reply
Old Nov 17, 2011 | 01:01 PM
  #28  
aviator's Avatar
Contributing Member
 
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 11,334
Likes: 0
From: COTKU,Ontario,Canada
According to the info on the site the thermistor cable is extendable with no issues...
it only has a single input so it would not be able to sense head pressure... you could rig a relay so that when ever you have the a/c on the fan controller would trigger high speed instead of low speed...
Reply
Old Nov 17, 2011 | 01:04 PM
  #29  
Outsane's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
15 Year Member
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,711
Likes: 4
From: San Diego
Thanks aviator!

Look for the arduino build all kinds of fancy work like this in the future
Reply
Old Nov 17, 2011 | 04:27 PM
  #30  
worshipmentor's Avatar
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 339
Likes: 0
From: Meridian Mississippi
Thanks for the reply Aviator. The thermistor wire lengthening sounds good as the one pictured doesn't look too long. I run the A/C almost constantly here in Mississippi from May to the end of October so I'm not too sure about having the fan on high all that time. I think low would be ok with the high speed kicking in when you are crawling or in slow/stopped traffic. There is a port on the filter/dryer so I may see if I can get a trianary switch. I'll let you know how it comes out!
Reply
Old Nov 17, 2011 | 06:27 PM
  #31  
irab88's Avatar
Registered User
15 Year Member
Liked
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 6,499
Likes: 37
Originally Posted by Outsane
Thanks aviator!

Look for the arduino build all kinds of fancy work like this in the future
got a link? or are you posting arduino stuff here?
Reply
Old Nov 18, 2011 | 07:08 AM
  #32  
aviator's Avatar
Contributing Member
 
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 11,334
Likes: 0
From: COTKU,Ontario,Canada
Originally Posted by worshipmentor
Thanks for the reply Aviator. The thermistor wire lengthening sounds good as the one pictured doesn't look too long. I run the A/C almost constantly here in Mississippi from May to the end of October so I'm not too sure about having the fan on high all that time. I think low would be ok with the high speed kicking in when you are crawling or in slow/stopped traffic. There is a port on the filter/dryer so I may see if I can get a trianary switch. I'll let you know how it comes out!
No worries... the wire that comes with it is 1m long so it would need to be extended for just about any installation...
so you're going to use the trinary as a switch to turn on the high speed when the a/c coolant temp/pressure hits a certain point?... looking forward to what you get...
Reply
Old Nov 18, 2011 | 07:36 AM
  #33  
Outsane's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
15 Year Member
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,711
Likes: 4
From: San Diego
I thought I started on some where ..but can't find it..

I'll start another thread... going to use and Arduino to add fertilizer for my fish tank..
Reply
Old Nov 23, 2011 | 06:11 PM
  #34  
Outsane's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
15 Year Member
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,711
Likes: 4
From: San Diego


delivered
Reply
Old Nov 25, 2011 | 07:30 PM
  #35  
Outsane's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
15 Year Member
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,711
Likes: 4
From: San Diego
Installed

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWcMZzo0Ins
Reply
Old Nov 25, 2011 | 07:37 PM
  #36  
Outsane's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
15 Year Member
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,711
Likes: 4
From: San Diego
Here are the modified instructions from Autospeed

Controlling an output

The module is fitted with a 5 amp relay. This means it can be connected directly to buzzers and warning lights. Through an additional heavy duty automotive relay, it can also control pumps or fans. (We’ll cover this application in a moment.)

To get a feel for how the control system works, it’s a good idea to play with it before installation. Let’s take a look at how it can be set up.

Pressing the Set button briefly changes the display to show the set-point temperature. This setting can be altered by pressing the up and down keys. When done, press the Set key again or simply wait a few seconds and the display reverts to the current temperature.

Pressing the Set button for 3 seconds brings up a second menu. Different parameters can be selected by pressing the up/down keys. To change the selected parameter, press the Set key a second time, then make the adjustments with the up/down keys. Whatever setting is selected is retained in memory, even if power is lost.

The available parameters are:

HC – this menu configures the module to either turn on its relay when the temperature exceeds the set-point (‘C’ mode), or turns on the relay when the temp falls below the set-point (‘H’) mode.

d – this sets the difference in temp between switch-on and switch off. (This is sometimes called the hysteresis.) By using the up/down keys, you can set this anywhere from 1 degree C to 15 degrees C. This is a very powerful control that can make a huge difference to how the system functions.

L5 – this is the minimum temperature the set-point can be configured. Normally, this would not need to be altered from its minus 50 degrees default.

H5 – this is the maximum temperature the set-point can be configured. Normally, this would not need to be altered from its 110 degrees default.

CA – this function allows you to correct the temperature display by adding or subtracting 1 degree units from the displayed reading.

P7 – this function is used when in C mode you don’t want the output cycling on and off at short intervals. The setting can be anything from 0 – 10 minutes. It example, if it is set to 1 minute, after the relay has activated once, it will not activate again until a minute has passed – even if the temp set-point has been tripped. In most uses you would set this to zero.
Over Temp Alarm

So let’s take a look at how you’d set the module up to turn on a relay water temp exceeds 92C or 197.6 f.

Press Set for 3 seconds then select the following:

HC – set to C

d – set to a small value like 4 degrees

L5, H5 and CA left at factory defaults

P7 set to zero

Press Set briefly then use the up/down keys to select 88 degrees as the set-point.

Huh? 88 degrees? We want the alarm to trip at 92 degrees, don’t we? This is the only trick in setting up the unit. In ‘C’ mode the relay will trip when the temp actually reaches the set-point plus the hysteresis – ie 88 degrees plus the 4 degrees we set in ‘d’ mode.
Reply
Old Nov 25, 2011 | 11:22 PM
  #37  
aviator's Avatar
Contributing Member
 
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 11,334
Likes: 0
From: COTKU,Ontario,Canada
Originally Posted by Outsane


delivered
Looks good in the video, how do you find the cycling when driving down the road with airflow through the rad?... what are the goodies beside the controller? how/where did you mount the temp. sensor?
sorry for all the ?... just stuff everyone is gonna ask [besides me that is lol]...
Reply
Old Nov 26, 2011 | 03:46 AM
  #38  
irab88's Avatar
Registered User
15 Year Member
Liked
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 6,499
Likes: 37
x2 from me. i like the controller, but am a bit more interested in the hardware side of things
Reply
Old Nov 26, 2011 | 05:48 AM
  #39  
worshipmentor's Avatar
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 339
Likes: 0
From: Meridian Mississippi
OUTSANE.........ok, GREAT posting!!!!!! YOU ROCK!!!!
love the video and the write up. Excellent walk through/explanation of how to make it work. I will put it to good use when mine comes in another week. now I just have to rig up my manual off/over ride switch and A/C head pressure switch!!! I'll post on here when I get it figured out. gonna try to mount my controller in the semi-worthless dash pocket to the left of the steering column.
WAY TO GO!!!!!
Reply
Old Nov 26, 2011 | 07:07 AM
  #40  
Outsane's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
15 Year Member
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,711
Likes: 4
From: San Diego
Looks good in the video, how do you find the cycling when driving down the road with airflow through the rad?
No while running on the road same experience maybe quicker

... what are the goodies beside the controller?
Taurus fan is being switched on by three relays, going to be the high side. I'll use the low side for the ac. I did extend the temp wire with some speaker wire.

how/where did you mount the temp. sensor?
sorry for all the ?... just stuff everyone is gonna ask [besides me that is lol]...
Reply



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 09:38 PM.