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Write up on pulling axle shafts and rear third?

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Old Dec 26, 2006 | 09:34 PM
  #1  
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From: Fort Worth, TEXAS
Write up on pulling axle shafts and rear third?

I have searched around and havent found anyhting about pulling the rear axle shafts and third. I am needing to learn so that i can familiarize myself for an on trail replacement and an upcoming third swap. Is there a good write up?

Thanks.
Kyle
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Old Dec 26, 2006 | 10:37 PM
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I don't know of a good write up but I did mine like this:

Remove the rear tires and the drum.

Remove the (4) nuts on the backing plate along with the hard brake line.

Have a zip-loc bag or other container ready to catch the oil and DOT-3.

Remove the axle with a firm tug while supporting it equally in all directions so you don't deform the axle seal.

Do the same to the other side, you are now ready to remove the nuts that hold the 3rd to the axle housing.

Disconnect your locker plug and pull out the 3rd.

You'll need gear oil and RTV sealant to put her back together.

It's been over a year since I did mine so someone chime in if I left out something vital.
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Old Dec 26, 2006 | 11:07 PM
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sounds about right to me!
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Old Dec 27, 2006 | 04:02 AM
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From: Ameliasburgh, On. Ca.
Forgot to unbolt the drive shaft, but all in all the correct steps
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Old Dec 27, 2006 | 05:04 AM
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From: Midlothian, VA
If you still have a rubber brake line it is helpful to have a pair of vice grips to clamp that line before you take the hard lines loose so you don't have to bleed the whole brake system.
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Old Dec 27, 2006 | 06:15 AM
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From: Fort Worth, TEXAS
OK, cool. are there snap rings on the shafts where they go into the diff?
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Old Dec 27, 2006 | 06:23 AM
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From: Cincinnati Ohio
No, axle shaft slides right out. Think about it....if there were, there would be no way to get them out since there is no cover like a Dana axle has.


Here's a tip. Get yourself a pack of vacuum caps to plug the brake lines so they dont leak everywhere.

No need to remove the drum. (unless its slides right off) Just pull the wheels, remove the brake line and e-brake cable, and pull the whole drum and axle assembly as a whole.

Last edited by Adam F; Dec 27, 2006 at 06:27 AM.
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Old Dec 27, 2006 | 09:38 AM
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im going to try to leave as much hooked up as I can. I have to do some trimming to get the e-locker to fit the housing. so im hoping that I can leave it hooked up. I have a magnetic drill press that will stay straight to drill the new stud holes.
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Old Jan 4, 2007 | 12:44 PM
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From: Cincinnati Ohio
You might be able to leave the brake lines hooked up and pull the axles out just far enough to pull the 3rd. But I dont see how you will be able to use the magnetic drill press. There is no flat surface for it to hook on to. Just use a hand drill, and bolt the 3rd in place with the actuator, and use the actuator and diff holes as a guide to make the new holes.

Clean everything up REAL good. Stuff some paper towels down the axle tubes so no metal chips get into the tubes.

Last edited by Adam F; Jan 4, 2007 at 12:45 PM.
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Old Jan 4, 2007 | 01:49 PM
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From: Halifax, NS
Rear sway bar. Disconnect it. Saves you some trouble... Unless of course you've already ditched it...
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Old Jan 4, 2007 | 02:02 PM
  #11  
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From: Fort Worth, TEXAS
yeah mines gone.

it was semi easy, but it will suck if i have to do it on the trail... how do you get the third out if the shaft is broken?
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Old Jan 4, 2007 | 02:09 PM
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From: Halifax, NS
Couldn't tell you, wouldn't want to find out the hard way...
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Old Jan 4, 2007 | 02:34 PM
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From: Cincinnati Ohio
One of those extendable magnets. Would have to be a big powerful one though. Or maybe attach a big powerful magnet to a long rod.
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Old Jan 4, 2007 | 03:10 PM
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From: MA
http://www.atarmor.com/3rdmemwriteup/writeup2.htm

if you still wanted one
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