^ We just went over this, the answer is they are lug centric. I never had to have the cone machined either

 

A couple of members mentioned this, but how are your brakes? It sounds like you problem may be a combination of several factors, but rotors may be one of them. I had terrible vibration issues on my 97 limited that ended up being due to warped front rotors. The vibration at high speeds was much more noticeable than the vibration when braking, so I never assumed it could be the rotors. After buying new tires and rotating and balancing several times, I finally bought a new set of brembos and it fixed the problem immediately. Since then I have also jumped up a tire size to 265/75/16s and still have no problem. If you haven't already, it might be worth a shot to have the rotors re-surfaced, replaced or at least checked out. My local parts store charged me $9/rotor to re-surface my original stock rotors.

If that dosen't help you can always upgrade and sell your old wheels/tires on your local craigslist.org

Good luck!

 

i've seen the same thing w/ my own eyes. i have a local mom & pop who has the correct machine, the correct cone, and people who care about their work.

actually, you're wrong when referring to the aluminum wheels on a 3rd gen. the steel wheels on earlier generations and even on the 3rd gens ARE LUG CENTRIC and use different lug nuts with conical bases to seat the wheel to the lugs.

 

So what your saying is they are all lug centric, all the wheels-period? They dont use conical lugs though, they use shoulder lugs-conical are the acorn type, shoulder have the washers. YOu dont get an extra special set just for your steel spare-maybe if you get all steel wheels.

FWIW: Like I said, I balanced my own wheels a number of times. You dont necessarily need the hunter road force balancer, but you have to put the cone on first and it has to fit, I never had to have one machined either.

Ex: on my t100 I have stock sr5 2nd gen wheels you put the correct cone on the machine facing like so: >, then the tire on the machine so- cone>[----]tire, and balance it. Works fine. I just did a set like this for my camry before I sold it on 5 spoke alloy wheels and I remounted my tires on my 2nd gen sr5 alloys on the T100 too and no problems. The trick is making sure its damn snug on the machine, I cant tell you how many techs dont check that. It is actually really easy to balance tires as well tbh with those machines, near idiot proof-but it wouldnt suprise me if they did it wrong. The adapter just makes the job easier if you dont use a cone. Some hub centric wheels dont need cones either btw.

I still say his wheels are out of round, or some suspension coponent is no good.

 

Since we're saving for a larger house, Christmas is coming, and we're also saving to buy my wife a new vehicle....I think I'll just suffer through this at least until my Michelins wear out. Like I've said, they've got at least another 40k or more left in them. I may give one of the dealers one more shot at breaking them down off the wheel and doing one final road force balance, but that will be it. If I still have the high speed vibration at that point, then I'll just have to continue to live with it until my tires wear out. This sucks because I really want those wheels and want a truck that doesn't shake me to death, but priorities are priorities (and no my wife is not standing over my shoulder as I write this). Quite honestly, I'm sorry to be continuously wasting ya'lls time on here and I'm sick of worrying about it. I may try to talk my friend into letting do a wheel swap one more time but like I said, I'm so fed up that at this point I really don't give a ˟˟˟˟˟ anymore.

I truly appreciate everyone's feedback, but of course there is no guarantee that my $1100-$1300 investment in new wheels and tires will solve the problem. God, I can only imagine how pissed I would be if I pulled the trigger and the vibration was still there. I'm gonna hang tight. Looks like there's no shortage of these Tundra/Sequoia wheels out there. Seems like there's another set posted everyday. Thanks for all the input guys. Me and 2001MillRunner will just continue to suffer together. Later guys.

Matt

 

Why not just find a set of rims and reuse the tires? See if you can get a yard to order/get you four for a decent price and explain the situation-they may allow a return if it doesnt fix the problem.

One last Q: this does this no matter what your doing, not just while braking right?

 

I'm tempted to get these:http://protrux.net/outfitter/catalog...products_id=33

and then get some hub-centric wheels so I will be able to go to just about any shop to get my wheels/tires balanced. That is assuming, nothing else is causing the vibration issue.

 

A local Toyota salvage yard quoted me $200/wheel for the Tundra wheels. I would assume similar for the 4Runner. Way too steep for wheels off a wrecked vehicle that may or may not be out of round themselves.

The front rotors were replaced aroud 120k miles. No brake issues or vibration while braking. Only when I get over 60 mph I start to feel it and then it gets progressively worse as you speed up past 65 mph. Not a brake or rotor issue as far as I can tell.

Matt

 

Lemme guess... the crooks in Calera quoted you that, didn't they?

Matt, with all due respect, your not really listening to what we've said. If you don't want to buy new wheels and tires, then that's fine. However, taking this thing back to a dealer who hasn't fixed your problem is just going to give the service manager a bigger Christmas bonus and won't do a thing to help you out.

From the beginning, before I moved, in the fall of 2004, I asked you about putting it up on stands or on a lift and spinning the rears. From your response, you STILL haven't done that. That's step 1 to rule out a bent rear axle or bent wheel. If that checks out, then swap the front wheels to the rear, and repeat. that will eliminate or point suspect to either a rear alxe or a wheel/tire as the culprit. if a wheel shows a wobble, then you put another wheel on that side of the axle and you see the same wobble, then you know you have a bent axle. if the wobble goes away or changes significantly, then you have a bent wheel or defective tire. also, while it's on that same lift, you can watch the driveshaft spin up and see if it has any vibrations. same for the output shaft of the transmission and the pinion flange of the third member in the axle. This should be first and foremost.

If you find that you have a bad tire that's still w/in specs but is causing the vibration, then you can take it to the shop in downtown B'ham and have the tires trued and then balanced on the truck. that way, you can certainly, with 100% confidence eliminate the possibility of it being a tire/wheel issue.

Seriously, you have received HUNDREDS of repsonses to your multiple vibration threads and you have yet to follow the simple, straight forward advise that's been given. Please do that before coming back and asking for even more of the same advise.

Again, no offense intended, but I think you're overlooking the most obvious diagnoses process here...

Good Luck, and keep us posted w/ your progress.

 

Thanks Andy and yes, it was Graham's in Calera I was talking about.

Matt

 

Andy, are you talking about spinning it by hand, or running the truck up to speed on the lift?

 

One more (sorry), you don't by any chance remember the name of the shop downtown do you? Hopefully I can find out frome someone locally if you can't remember, only after I do the steps you outlined above. Thanks again.

Matt

 

i was talking about finding a shop (probably a mom & pop tire place) that would let you run it up to speed while off the ground ON A LIFT and NOT on jack stands. also, just call any decent tire shop and ask who does "dynamic balancing with the wheels on the vehicle" and they should be able to give you the name of the shop. sorry, but i can't remember it off hand - that was 3 or 4 years ago when i was looking around for a good shop for my MT/R's.

 

Another thing you could and should do cheaply is to remove your drive shaft, and have it checked for balance.

I was convinced that I had a tire problem at one point - but it turned out to be a bent drive shaft. Thing is, I didn't think I had done anything to bend the drive shaft....I didn't figure that one out until it had vibrated enough to crack my transmission case in half, then when I went to replace everything I found the bent driveshaft.

 

Have you checked ALL the steering joints? as there seems to be a lot of joints & bushes in the steering system! I had the same problem on my Hilux Surf when I bought it a couple of weeks ago, I have had the front wheels balanced which has improved things but there is still a bit of vibration at certain speeds. One thing to look at if there is vibration through the transmission check that the sliding section on the propshaft is well greased.
Hope this may help!
Cheers
Geoff W
Sunny Bristol. UK

 

I just want to add that when our vibrations happen, the steering wheel shakes like crazy. When I rotate my tires from front to back it gets ALOT worse. I dont know if that can still be caused by steering rack bushing, driveshaft, or any suspension components??

 

i don't think so, but it's possible i guess.

also, if you have a warped rear axle, then it could cause a wear pattern in the tire. then, when you swap front to rear, the tire w/ the bad wear pattern has a direct path to you thru the steering wheel.

 

This is quite possible since I had a bit of irregular wear due to a severe toe in issue which made the steering wheel shake a bit. Then I had it aligned and rotated the tires and the shake was gone (I could feel it a bit in the rear until the tires wore smooth again). Mind you it wasn't severe like you guys are talking about, but the principle should be the same.

 

From what I read no problems till the tires were replaced. The only two things that were worked on to prior to this problem were the tires & wheels.
My suggestion is to swap with someone who isn't having the problem or get your wheels checked for being true. Either option shouldn't be very expensive.

Good luck!!

 

At the very least put the spare on. Start with the drivers rear one day , then the passenger rear the next day etc....