Vibration Issue Again!!! I've had it with this truck...
#81
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Many radials these days can be cross-rotated. That used to not be the case. I contacts Michelin/BFG about rotating the MTs and ATs and was told they are OK to run on the opposite side of the vehicle. I have cross-rotated several sets of BFGs with no ill effects to even out the tread wear, especially on the MTs. Best to see what a given tire mfg. recommends.
#82
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Thanks Andy. All of those components have been checked (supposedly) at two different Toyota dealerships (Limbaugh and Hoover) and at a Firestone service center. Also, there was that time that you took a look at it. I just had the driveshaft u joints replaced because the front one failed. Somone else on here says that it failing prematurely may be a sign of another problem which could in turn be causing the vibration. What say you? I definitely can't say for sure that anyone has looked closely to see if the rear axle was bent but if it were, wouldn't the vibs show up before 65 mph?
I would come out much cheaper buying a wheel/tire take-off combo on Ebay, but the problem is that they are either crap Dunlops or Bridgestone H/Ts. My 4Runner came equipped with H/Ts when I bought it and I only got a little over 30k miles out of them with regular rotation and alignment. The next set I bought were Bridgestone H/Ls (per Jason B's recommendation) and I got almost 75k out of them. However, if I just buy the wheels, the tires are going to cost almost as much as a tire/wheel combo set on Ebay. I don't know. We'll see...
Matt
I would come out much cheaper buying a wheel/tire take-off combo on Ebay, but the problem is that they are either crap Dunlops or Bridgestone H/Ts. My 4Runner came equipped with H/Ts when I bought it and I only got a little over 30k miles out of them with regular rotation and alignment. The next set I bought were Bridgestone H/Ls (per Jason B's recommendation) and I got almost 75k out of them. However, if I just buy the wheels, the tires are going to cost almost as much as a tire/wheel combo set on Ebay. I don't know. We'll see...
Matt
#83
yeah, i understand. however, at this point, you don't know if that will fix your issues. if your wife is questioning the purchase, and the tires/wheels don't fix the issue, then you can always resell them and get most - if not all - of your money back out of them to use to pursue another avenue.
the best way to check for anything warped would be to put it on a lift, crank it up, put it in gear, and let the wheels spin up to 40+ MPH. if you have any runout or wobble whatsoever, then you should investigate what is causing it - most likely a bent wheel, bad tire, or bent/warped axle. if you want to check the wheels that are on the front, after spinning up the rear two, do a rotate, then spin up the next two.
the best way to check for anything warped would be to put it on a lift, crank it up, put it in gear, and let the wheels spin up to 40+ MPH. if you have any runout or wobble whatsoever, then you should investigate what is causing it - most likely a bent wheel, bad tire, or bent/warped axle. if you want to check the wheels that are on the front, after spinning up the rear two, do a rotate, then spin up the next two.
#84
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Can you repeat again how far into your current mileage the vibration started at high speed?
#85
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I guess it depends on the tires, I did it once on radials and boy I was unhappy, maybe it was b/c they were bias ply-I dunno. But directionals are even worse and cannot be cross rotated, I found out the hard way once.
Last edited by CJM; 11-06-2006 at 07:27 AM.
#88
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I would come out much cheaper buying a wheel/tire take-off combo on Ebay, but the problem is that they are either crap Dunlops or Bridgestone H/Ts. My 4Runner came equipped with H/Ts when I bought it and I only got a little over 30k miles out of them with regular rotation and alignment. The next set I bought were Bridgestone H/Ls (per Jason B's recommendation) and I got almost 75k out of them. However, if I just buy the wheels, the tires are going to cost almost as much as a tire/wheel combo set on Ebay. I don't know. We'll see...
Matt
Matt
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LEXUS...45626684QQrdZ1
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyot...47029386QQrdZ1
Even if you can find someone with a chevy truck to swap with they will fit.
#89
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Ok, here is the step by step run down of tires on my truck....
1. Bought the truck in March 2001. Came stock with a set of Bridgestone H/Ts. Even with routine (every 3k-5k) balance and alignment, I only got about 30k miles out of them. These were size 265/70/16.
2. Replaced the worn out H/Ts with a new set of Bridgesone H/Ls in size 265/70/16. Got approximately 75k miles out of these with routine balance and alignment. Only vibration issues I recall (and this has been several years ago) were when the tires needed to be re-balanced. When they did, they let me know. I took it in, got them re-balanced on the Hunter machine and everything was fine.
3. When these wore out (around 105k miles), I decided I wanted to put an A/T tire on the truck and after reading the raving reviews on the Revos and also my experience with the Bridgestone H/Ls, I decided to go with the Revos and got size 265/75/16 instead of the stock size (I liked the look of the larger tire). All four Revos were balanced at a shop that KNOWS the Hunter machine, used the Haweka plate, and got all four tires to road force below 10! Should run smooth as glass right? Wrong. Awful vibration above 65 mph.
4. After driving them for about 5k miles, I returned the Revos thinking they were the problem and spent an additional $200 or so on a set of Cross Terrains. Same shop did the balance on these. These didn't road force as low as the Revos, but the highest was like a 13. Again, should run smooth right? Wrong. Same vibration above 65 mph.
That's where I stand today. They've been balanced and are balanced as best they can be. The truck has been inspected for any mechanical component that would be causing the problem at two different dealerships, a Firestone service center, and Andy (BamaChem). No one can find any mechanical problem causing this.
The only common denominator is going up one size on the tires, but this should not be an issue. Everyone has said that should not cause this at all! Another point...the Hunter machine has never showed a radial or lateral runout reading that would indicate an out of round or damaged wheel but what else can it be at this point?
As stated, about a year ago I did swap wheels/tires with a friend with a 98 4Runner and the same size Cross Terrains, however his tires were nearing the end of their life and he had not maintained them like I do so I doubt the treadwear was even. That being said, the vibration was better but still not perfectly smooth. Another caveat is that as I rotate my current tires, it will be better in a certain configuration on the truck (although still not good by ANY means) but then 5k miles later when they are rotated again, it will get five times worse.
I have not had the truck put up on the rack and run it up to speed. I hope the dealership would do that for me. I doubt they'll let me get up to 65 mph where the vibration starts anyway. I guess that is something that is worth looking into though. Whew, my hands are tired.
If I could find someone to buy my current tires, I'd buy these wheels and a new set of tires in a heart beat, but I just don't think I can. There's several sets of Cross Terrains on Ebay, and very few have bids on them. If the wheels are the problem, I may be able to sell them to someone who wants to put an A/T tire on them and use them off road only, but that is all speculation and the upfront cost of new wheels and tires (assuming I go with the cheaper Yokohamas and not the Bridgestone H/L Alenza) will range from $1100-$1300.
Matt
1. Bought the truck in March 2001. Came stock with a set of Bridgestone H/Ts. Even with routine (every 3k-5k) balance and alignment, I only got about 30k miles out of them. These were size 265/70/16.
2. Replaced the worn out H/Ts with a new set of Bridgesone H/Ls in size 265/70/16. Got approximately 75k miles out of these with routine balance and alignment. Only vibration issues I recall (and this has been several years ago) were when the tires needed to be re-balanced. When they did, they let me know. I took it in, got them re-balanced on the Hunter machine and everything was fine.
3. When these wore out (around 105k miles), I decided I wanted to put an A/T tire on the truck and after reading the raving reviews on the Revos and also my experience with the Bridgestone H/Ls, I decided to go with the Revos and got size 265/75/16 instead of the stock size (I liked the look of the larger tire). All four Revos were balanced at a shop that KNOWS the Hunter machine, used the Haweka plate, and got all four tires to road force below 10! Should run smooth as glass right? Wrong. Awful vibration above 65 mph.
4. After driving them for about 5k miles, I returned the Revos thinking they were the problem and spent an additional $200 or so on a set of Cross Terrains. Same shop did the balance on these. These didn't road force as low as the Revos, but the highest was like a 13. Again, should run smooth right? Wrong. Same vibration above 65 mph.
That's where I stand today. They've been balanced and are balanced as best they can be. The truck has been inspected for any mechanical component that would be causing the problem at two different dealerships, a Firestone service center, and Andy (BamaChem). No one can find any mechanical problem causing this.
The only common denominator is going up one size on the tires, but this should not be an issue. Everyone has said that should not cause this at all! Another point...the Hunter machine has never showed a radial or lateral runout reading that would indicate an out of round or damaged wheel but what else can it be at this point?
As stated, about a year ago I did swap wheels/tires with a friend with a 98 4Runner and the same size Cross Terrains, however his tires were nearing the end of their life and he had not maintained them like I do so I doubt the treadwear was even. That being said, the vibration was better but still not perfectly smooth. Another caveat is that as I rotate my current tires, it will be better in a certain configuration on the truck (although still not good by ANY means) but then 5k miles later when they are rotated again, it will get five times worse.
I have not had the truck put up on the rack and run it up to speed. I hope the dealership would do that for me. I doubt they'll let me get up to 65 mph where the vibration starts anyway. I guess that is something that is worth looking into though. Whew, my hands are tired.
If I could find someone to buy my current tires, I'd buy these wheels and a new set of tires in a heart beat, but I just don't think I can. There's several sets of Cross Terrains on Ebay, and very few have bids on them. If the wheels are the problem, I may be able to sell them to someone who wants to put an A/T tire on them and use them off road only, but that is all speculation and the upfront cost of new wheels and tires (assuming I go with the cheaper Yokohamas and not the Bridgestone H/L Alenza) will range from $1100-$1300.
Matt
#90
#91
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As stated, about a year ago I did swap wheels/tires with a friend with a 98 4Runner and the same size Cross Terrains, however his tires were nearing the end of their life and he had not maintained them like I do so I doubt the treadwear was even. That being said, the vibration was better but still not perfectly smooth. Another caveat is that as I rotate my current tires, it will be better in a certain configuration on the truck (although still not good by ANY means) but then 5k miles later when they are rotated again, it will get five times worse.
#92
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MTL 4Runner,
His was not completely vibration free either. I mean there was some (just probably because they needed to be balanced) but nothing compared to what I'm dealing with. I even went and drove his one night on the interstate for about 45 minutes and it was considerably better than mine, even with his worn out tires.
Like I said, when I put his wheels/tires on mine, the vibration was reduced rather significantly. Not completely gone, but then again it wasn't vibration free when I drove his truck. I did not put my tires/wheels on his truck and I wish that I would have. The techs in the dealerships service department didn't want me to do what I did, and I'm sure they would have raised hell if I had asked to put my tires on his truck and then gone out and driven it.
Matt
His was not completely vibration free either. I mean there was some (just probably because they needed to be balanced) but nothing compared to what I'm dealing with. I even went and drove his one night on the interstate for about 45 minutes and it was considerably better than mine, even with his worn out tires.
Like I said, when I put his wheels/tires on mine, the vibration was reduced rather significantly. Not completely gone, but then again it wasn't vibration free when I drove his truck. I did not put my tires/wheels on his truck and I wish that I would have. The techs in the dealerships service department didn't want me to do what I did, and I'm sure they would have raised hell if I had asked to put my tires on his truck and then gone out and driven it.
Matt
#93
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I have not had the truck put up on the rack and run it up to speed. I hope the dealership would do that for me. I doubt they'll let me get up to 65 mph where the vibration starts anyway. I guess that is something that is worth looking into though. Whew, my hands are tired.
Matt
Matt
Also, you are adding additional mass with the larger wheels/tires. It could be the condition has been there all along, maybe getting worse, and the additonal mass finds a resonance point that you wouldn't otherwise see.
Maybe a wheel bearing or shaft or whatever. In anyevent trying on a rack to see if you can duplicate the problem should help. Help you hone in on which axle/wheel is the problem.. assuming it is an axle wheel problem, and not the drive line.
(I can see why you are being driven nuts (so-to-speak)... nothing worse that a stupid vibration you can't get rid of.)
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Andy,
That is tempting, but I would much rather have the Tundra wheels and those H/Ts will only be good for about 30k miles.
How and where should I sell my wheels and tires? Separately? Together? Where? The tires have got at least another 40k left in them if not more.
Matt
That is tempting, but I would much rather have the Tundra wheels and those H/Ts will only be good for about 30k miles.
How and where should I sell my wheels and tires? Separately? Together? Where? The tires have got at least another 40k left in them if not more.
Matt
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Start the bidding at the price I want for them or just put it strictly as a Buy It Now option? I AM NOT going to go out and buy these wheels not having already sold mine or at least have a very solid lead on selling mine. I guess it wouldn't hurt to put them on Ebay and see what happens....
Matt
Matt
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BTW...I aired the tires up to 34 psi. Reaching for straws at this point. My retarded thinking....the 265/75/16 needs more than the 32 psi recommended for the stock 265/70/16 that's on the sticker on the driver's door. Like I said...reaching for straws.
Matt
Matt
#99
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I would ask if there was anyone on YT down in your part of the US with a 3rd gen willing to come over and help you out. If you were up here I'd definetly come over and at least swap tires and drive both vehicles to eliminate that as a possible cause (it sounds like the prior test you did really doesn't count since you never tried your tires on the other guy's truck). I hate to see you go and spend a couple hundred dollars on a new tire setup only to find the issue is still there. Even a nearby junkyard may allow you to try out a set of 3rd gen wheels if you left yours as a deposit and paid them a fee for the use.
#100
Its the wheels, the factory wheels on all yotas besides the steelies are lug centric, they balance totally off the lugs and dont fit tight on the hubs.
I found I could balance them at school (auto votech) on an older hunter machine. Most tire guys dont understand that since its lug centric the cone adapter must go on first and the wheel lock into it, the hub centric wheels-wheel goes on first then the cone goes on backwards. I seen it a thousand times, someone doesnt do it with the cone on first! It does matter, regardless of what people think I balanced and mounted many, many tires and wheels and can tell you for sure: a good set of tires and true wheels, balanced correctly will be fine.
Actually Yota aluminum rims are hub centric, the problem occurs when the cone used doesn't come in contact with the center and actually touches the lugs around the wheel nuts. The cone needs to be machined down to fit inside, once this is done they can be balanced properly. Every shop I've been to except 1, their cone won't fit. The shop I go to, allows me to balance my own rims and I have never had any vibration issues, unless the wheel weights come off.