Transmission & T-case leaks/cracks
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Transmission & T-case leaks/cracks
So i missed the section on hand-tightening the fill bolt on the transmission and have a hairline crack where the fill bolt goes in. I patched it with some metal filler, but I'm still getting a little bit of oil leaking.
Since that isn't enough, I also made the mistake of letting Jiffy Lube work on the t-case. The filler threads are completely stripped (on the t-case, not the bolt). The bolt is currently held on with some silicone, but it's still leaking and has a crack similar to the tranny.
i was thinking of tack welding the cracks and retapping the filler with a slightly larger size. The drain bolt is also leaking on t-case.
Any thoughts on the best route to go?
Since that isn't enough, I also made the mistake of letting Jiffy Lube work on the t-case. The filler threads are completely stripped (on the t-case, not the bolt). The bolt is currently held on with some silicone, but it's still leaking and has a crack similar to the tranny.
i was thinking of tack welding the cracks and retapping the filler with a slightly larger size. The drain bolt is also leaking on t-case.
Any thoughts on the best route to go?
#2
Go see the Manager at JL and then confront the gorilla that ruined your transfer case. Will probably be a battle, you word against his, but if the manager has had complaints in the past, he may work with you. If you are unsuccessful, take them to small claims court along with estimates from several shops to replace the case. You have a 50-50 chance of winning.
Other options include tapping the hole to the next size pipe thread. Will likely require the case to be dropped. It can be drilled and tapped upside down and with axle grease on the drill bit to catch the chips. Then the next size tapered pipe thread, with grease on it too, can be used to cut new threads. I suggest you find a automotive machine shop to do the work. I lived there for years and there are some great shops in SD. PS, the new plug should have a magnet for extra protection.
Other options include tapping the hole to the next size pipe thread. Will likely require the case to be dropped. It can be drilled and tapped upside down and with axle grease on the drill bit to catch the chips. Then the next size tapered pipe thread, with grease on it too, can be used to cut new threads. I suggest you find a automotive machine shop to do the work. I lived there for years and there are some great shops in SD. PS, the new plug should have a magnet for extra protection.
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Long story short there's no reasonable way to prove fault.
This might sound ridiculous (but given that I'm a college student who is just getting by, cheap is often best), but could I weld a fine-thread nut on to the t-case on top of the fill hole?
This might sound ridiculous (but given that I'm a college student who is just getting by, cheap is often best), but could I weld a fine-thread nut on to the t-case on top of the fill hole?
#4
Registered User
Just find another tcase. They're not that hard to find and not that expensive. Especially the rear sections. Find someone who's done duals and grab the back half of the case.
#5
Registered User
#6
Registered User
How about this post #9
http://bb.bc4x4.com/showthread.php?t=140168
http://bb.bc4x4.com/showthread.php?t=140168
I have a milk crate full of toy tcase gears plus a bunch of misc toy tcase housings. (No dual case front section) but a bunch of middle sections and rear sections.
$30 takes it all.
$30 takes it all.
Trending Topics
#8
OK, plan B
Wrap tape, your choice, around the plug threads and tighten it until it starts to loosen. Tape junk will not affect inner parts of tx case. College student cheap and effective. Others may suggest something else but the concept is as cheap and effective as it gets.
If access to the plug is really good, you may find a muffler shop or garage that will weld a nut onto the case. Make a washer out of cardboard to seal the bolt that will be threaded into the nut. Hopefully they will do it for $20 and not set your rig on fire.
Wrap tape, your choice, around the plug threads and tighten it until it starts to loosen. Tape junk will not affect inner parts of tx case. College student cheap and effective. Others may suggest something else but the concept is as cheap and effective as it gets.
If access to the plug is really good, you may find a muffler shop or garage that will weld a nut onto the case. Make a washer out of cardboard to seal the bolt that will be threaded into the nut. Hopefully they will do it for $20 and not set your rig on fire.
#9
Registered User
OK, plan B
Wrap tape, your choice, around the plug threads and tighten it until it starts to loosen. Tape junk will not affect inner parts of tx case. College student cheap and effective. Others may suggest something else but the concept is as cheap and effective as it gets.
If access to the plug is really good, you may find a muffler shop or garage that will weld a nut onto the case. Make a washer out of cardboard to seal the bolt that will be threaded into the nut. Hopefully they will do it for $20 and not set your rig on fire.
Wrap tape, your choice, around the plug threads and tighten it until it starts to loosen. Tape junk will not affect inner parts of tx case. College student cheap and effective. Others may suggest something else but the concept is as cheap and effective as it gets.
If access to the plug is really good, you may find a muffler shop or garage that will weld a nut onto the case. Make a washer out of cardboard to seal the bolt that will be threaded into the nut. Hopefully they will do it for $20 and not set your rig on fire.
Last edited by neoworm0; 03-24-2009 at 11:50 AM.
#10
Contributing Member
The cases are made of cast aluminum. Welding up a crack in an aluminum case would be very difficult. The crack will want to open up as it starts to get molten and the heat transfers away very quickly making the whole case very hot. Not like welding steel at all.
I had this same problem with my lawnmower engine drain plug, I drained it completely and used brake cleaner to clean up the threads and used black RTV to seal the plug in. It hasn't leaked a drop since, but I can never remove the plug now. Lucky Briggs & Strat has 2 drain plugs
I had this same problem with my lawnmower engine drain plug, I drained it completely and used brake cleaner to clean up the threads and used black RTV to seal the plug in. It hasn't leaked a drop since, but I can never remove the plug now. Lucky Briggs & Strat has 2 drain plugs
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for all the responses, not entirely sure what I'm going to do as of yet. I'd love to buy the section and replace it, but living on campus=no where to work on my truck.
I had forgotten that the t-case was aluminum, that reminder just saved a lot of hassle.
I had forgotten that the t-case was aluminum, that reminder just saved a lot of hassle.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
kelly1450
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
1
09-02-2015 12:29 PM