I'm still tracking down what's making noise in my driveline..and before going to a full t-case rebuild I'm going to replace the first bearing on the rear output shaft. If that doesn't do it...rebuild kit I guess.

Anyways, I got in there, got the first case cover off (I think it's technically the 3rd, but it's the first if you're going in from behind ), and can't get the speedometer drive gear off. I know it just presses on there, but I couldn't figure out a good way to work it loose, without damaging the gears. Anyone have any tricks?

Also, the bearing seemed fine...not sure I'd know just by looking at it & spinning it, but it spun nice & smooth, and I didn't notice shavings in my oil this time when I drained it, although usually I do..weird. I've replace one u-joint (driveline guy said the other was fine), rear diff....now looking into the t-case. Not sure what the problem is but I've posted about this before without much luck so I guess let's just stick with helping me get those gears off the output shaft.

I can post up some pics later, but they just show the rear most cover of the case off and the output shaft...so unless I'm not being clear enough about where I'm working, I don't think you'll need photos.

Thanks!


Oh...there is one other thing...when I ratchet the nut (staked nut), the output shaft turns...this is when I'm in gear. It spins nice & easy when I'm in neutral, but with a pry bar, if I don't lock the flange in place with a tool, it spins....that can't be normal. This is in 5th gear, t-case in 2Hi. I feel like before when I was trying to do this without the tool locking the flange in place, I did it in 5th and maybe 4HI, and of course it didn't move...but in 5th & 2HI it spins. Bad?

 

It's really hard to believe that nobody on this site has done this before...

 

Well, in 2H there is nothing holding the rear flange other than the gearing in the transmission and the clutch. Since you are in high range, that is 1:1 gearing and 5th gear is less than 1:1, so you have to break the clutch loose with even less torque and it could be your clutch is a little worn and slipping.

That is why 4H and block the front wheels, as you have rear and front locked together and the front driveshaft is holding the shaft from spinning. But when I removed my rear flange nut, I found I also needed a tool to lock the flange mechanically since there was enough play in the rest of the gears and what not that would dissipate the torque applied. I used a bar with 2 holes bolted to the flange and just long enough to hit the frame rail to hold the flange. Then a pipe on the end of a breaker bar to get mine loose (Marlin had installed that nut when he put my dual cases in).

 

Great, thank you! Didn't realize that about 4H/2H. I do have a piece of metal with a couple flange holes drilled in it to hold it in place. Worked for breaking the nut loose, but when you go the other way, your pushing against the exhaust instead of the frame, and I didn't want to crank too hard against the pipe. I'm just paranoid that my clutch could be bad because I replaced it myself a year ago, and forgot threadlock, and well, because, I'm just paranoid about that stuff

Ok. Any advice on getting those gears off the rear output shaft? I think I may need to rebuild the entire t-case anyways since that bearing seemed fine so is probably not the cause of my noise, but still...

Thanks again.