Seafoam Injector / Intake Cleaner = GOOD STUFF
#561
RD: I think that is a great philosphy. After all, the people who designed the vehicles obviously designed them to run forever, why not follow their simple guidelines.
I think some of us just never got tired of playing with Tonka trucks as a kid and just like to have fun with our rigs
I think some of us just never got tired of playing with Tonka trucks as a kid and just like to have fun with our rigs
#562
Btw, can someone look at the picture and tell me if that is where I WOULD suck in seafoam IF I decided to do it?
#563
RD: I think that is a great philosphy. After all, the people who designed the vehicles obviously designed them to run forever, why not follow their simple guidelines.
I think some of us just never got tired of playing with Tonka trucks as a kid and just like to have fun with our rigs
I think some of us just never got tired of playing with Tonka trucks as a kid and just like to have fun with our rigs

Basically two related reasons... both completely human. The desire to have the sense of "keeping care of your baby".... and with modding... making it "your own".
Both are positive human characteristics... sometimes poorly and expensively executed. I'd probably trade my experience and "wisdom" for the age of those involved in such activity...
#565

I have a 1995 4Runner 3.0 3vz engine. Can anyone confirm that the highlighted hose is the appropriate hose to suck seafoam in with? If I can confirm this I will make a step by step with pictures and / or video for anyone with a 3.0 that wants to use the brake booster hose to inject seafoam including the results. I like to be 100% sure when I do anything especially with my yota!
My 3.whoa
haha

closer....

My 3.whoa
haha
closer....

#566
dude this stuff works great! i cant find it where i live. but i doubled the doseage on my tank and ran it through and it was a noticable gain on my tired 22re
#567
This is the last time I
for an answer
for an answerI have a 1995 4Runner 3.0 3vz engine. Can anyone confirm that the highlighted hose is the appropriate hose to suck seafoam in with? If I can confirm this I will make a step by step with pictures and / or video for anyone with a 3.0 that wants to use the brake booster hose to inject seafoam including the results. I like to be 100% sure when I do anything especially with my yota!
My 3.whoa
haha

closer....

My 3.whoa
haha
closer....

#568
I was ok til it went over $3.50 and now it all sucks but I did "only" pay $3.92 yesterday.
#571
I live by seafoam
ive owned 1996 maxima... seafoamed felt the diff. and beter gas mileage
2006 caddillac cts .. after 34k miles...i was ripping through first gear like no tommorow.
my project car, 280Z Datsun, before i changed the head the pistons were of normal color.[dark brown]. after seafoaming, few days later i blew the head.
Took the head of, the pistons were shiny as polished chrome...i was simply amazed
I do have before and after pix which i will show you.
Ive been on numerous forums, of various diff. cars. Ive seen too much not to believe it..
ive owned 1996 maxima... seafoamed felt the diff. and beter gas mileage
2006 caddillac cts .. after 34k miles...i was ripping through first gear like no tommorow.
my project car, 280Z Datsun, before i changed the head the pistons were of normal color.[dark brown]. after seafoaming, few days later i blew the head.
Took the head of, the pistons were shiny as polished chrome...i was simply amazed
I do have before and after pix which i will show you.
Ive been on numerous forums, of various diff. cars. Ive seen too much not to believe it..
Last edited by 2 da max; Jul 13, 2008 at 08:02 PM.
#573
UK Seafoam
Ok so ive got a old diesel (1997 vectra turbo 2.0) that im convinced could do with a sea foaming but here in the UK its impossible to get the stuff without shipping it over in excess of $100, we do however have a alternative called redex like redline.
I was wondering will this other product be too harsh to put through my brake boost since Ive used it in the fuel only and it barely makes a difference.
any ideas?
I was wondering will this other product be too harsh to put through my brake boost since Ive used it in the fuel only and it barely makes a difference.
any ideas?
Last edited by thefist; Oct 20, 2008 at 03:22 AM.
#574
Ok so ive got a old diesel (1997 vectra turbo 2.0) that im convinced could do with a sea foaming but here in the UK its impossible to get the stuff without shipping it over in excess of $100, we do however have a alternative called redex like redline.
I was wondering will this other product be too harsh to put through my brake boost since Ive used it in the fuel only and it barely makes a difference.
any ideas?
I was wondering will this other product be too harsh to put through my brake boost since Ive used it in the fuel only and it barely makes a difference.
any ideas?
#575
I've been reading this for two days from the first post in 2004, and I saw a few posts that said the brake booster vaccuum line in the 3VZE will cause you to hydrolock the engine and then the most recent on up there about the 3VZE, it says the brake booster line is the one to use.
Which one is it, can the brake booster vaccuum line be used to pull the Seafoam through?
Also does all that carbon and whatever else it cleans off, hurt the catalytic converter as it's burned and pushed out the exhaust.
I've used Seafoam for years on boats, but you don't have to worry about any exhaust components on them. Has anybody hurt their cat after running Seafoam through?
Which one is it, can the brake booster vaccuum line be used to pull the Seafoam through?
Also does all that carbon and whatever else it cleans off, hurt the catalytic converter as it's burned and pushed out the exhaust.
I've used Seafoam for years on boats, but you don't have to worry about any exhaust components on them. Has anybody hurt their cat after running Seafoam through?
#576
Wow, what an old post.
And is this really the first post since 2008? haha.
Something I've noticed from previous experiences (both my own, and others comments)
Some say to use the brake booster, others say to use the PCV valve hose.....well, I was undecided since so many people had differing opinions, so I used BOTH
There's some speculation that the brake booster line will only hit the first couple cylinders...and same speculation with the PCV valve - people saying it won't hit all cylinders. Then, I read on one forum where users mentioned a "check valve" on the brake booster, that wouldn't induce the seafoam when disconnected....so that's why I did what I did
I'll add 1.5 oz. x 4.5 fl. oz. into my crankcase FIRST - that amounts to 6.75 oz. of seafoam into the oil, a little over 6 oz, honestly, I added about 7.
Then I drove to the gas station, dumped in a full can of Seafoam (the can says it treats 1 fl. oz. of seafoam per gallon of gas, and I got a 15-16gallon tank) - fill up completely (to the first click).
Then I drove it to some secluded park (it was during school hours, so no soccer mom's or patrol on duty lol) and that's where I split the remainder of the first can into 2 even cups, one for the PCV, and one for the brake booster.
Obviously, I didn't do them at the same time, but like 30 minutes apart.
Did the PCV first, let it sit 15 mins (according to the can, just for precaution), and then turned it on, and did a couple WOTs up and down the road til the smoke was gone.
Then onto the brake booster. Same deal.
I honestly got more smoke through the brake booster, than the PCV....no idea why lol - on an 08 Kia Optima.
Just a word of warning, this stuff is a "trusted" solvent used in automotive/intake/injection cleaning; designed as per the amounts listed on the can. That's why I followed the directions to the "T" (or atleast close enough). Seafoam is actually "pale oil" (40-60%), Naptha (solvent, at 25-35%), and IPA (Isoproanol Alcohol) at 10-20%.
From what I've read, the pale oil is actually just a light weight oil (probably something like 2-stroke oil...?) added to the mix as a "carrier" (someone eluded to this earlier, in a post around page ~20). Just so the solvent (the naptha) gets to where it needs to go, before burning off. And the IPA (which is NOT the same stuff you buy at the drug store....the stuff at the drug store is usually only max 50%) and it's used as a solvent, but more for "drying" - since remember Seafoam is a multi-tool
One of it's feats, being to "stabalize" fuel and remove moisture from gasoline.
But yea, I've noticed similar affects with MPG. After about 5 or so fillups, the MPG is back where it was before the Seafoam. But I still do swear by it.
I've been using the seafoam in the oil and gas tank before every oil change. I'll add it to the oil and gas, and ride around til the gas guage gets low, and then take it in for the oil change.
To those skeptical about driving long distances with the seafoam in the oil - it states on their website it's safe for MAXIMUM of 3k mi. in the crankcase - but no more.
But you gotta pick one method or the other, not both. I generally use the "pre-service" method:
But they also after an "after service" method, in which case, you'd add the seafoam directly aftering your new oil change:
I honestly think I get the best affect with the Seafoam added to my fuel, and to the oil.
My Rio used to have an annoying "ticking" sound on cold start-up (if you can consider, 70oF "cold" here in Florida...lol). After the seafoam treatment in the oil, the tick was gone the next morning after adding the oil.
It's odd, I see so many videos where people add the seafoam to the gas or oil AFTER the intake/PCV/brake booster...but honestly, it's probably not a wise idea to induce a "room temperature liquid" to a "warmed up" engine.
Also, to the poster a couple pages back wondering who makes Seafoam. I was curious too...But, one of the EPA pages for "registered gas additives" revealed that "Warren Oil Company" actually packages/distribute Seafoam....but I don't know, all their MSDSheets list "Seafoam Sales Company". Kinda odd. Unless either the EPA site is outdated (things changed since the EPA approved the additive), or the MSDS has changed since then
And is this really the first post since 2008? haha.
Something I've noticed from previous experiences (both my own, and others comments)
Some say to use the brake booster, others say to use the PCV valve hose.....well, I was undecided since so many people had differing opinions, so I used BOTH

There's some speculation that the brake booster line will only hit the first couple cylinders...and same speculation with the PCV valve - people saying it won't hit all cylinders. Then, I read on one forum where users mentioned a "check valve" on the brake booster, that wouldn't induce the seafoam when disconnected....so that's why I did what I did

I'll add 1.5 oz. x 4.5 fl. oz. into my crankcase FIRST - that amounts to 6.75 oz. of seafoam into the oil, a little over 6 oz, honestly, I added about 7.
Then I drove to the gas station, dumped in a full can of Seafoam (the can says it treats 1 fl. oz. of seafoam per gallon of gas, and I got a 15-16gallon tank) - fill up completely (to the first click).
Then I drove it to some secluded park (it was during school hours, so no soccer mom's or patrol on duty lol) and that's where I split the remainder of the first can into 2 even cups, one for the PCV, and one for the brake booster.
Obviously, I didn't do them at the same time, but like 30 minutes apart.
Did the PCV first, let it sit 15 mins (according to the can, just for precaution), and then turned it on, and did a couple WOTs up and down the road til the smoke was gone.
Then onto the brake booster. Same deal.
I honestly got more smoke through the brake booster, than the PCV....no idea why lol - on an 08 Kia Optima.
Just a word of warning, this stuff is a "trusted" solvent used in automotive/intake/injection cleaning; designed as per the amounts listed on the can. That's why I followed the directions to the "T" (or atleast close enough). Seafoam is actually "pale oil" (40-60%), Naptha (solvent, at 25-35%), and IPA (Isoproanol Alcohol) at 10-20%.
From what I've read, the pale oil is actually just a light weight oil (probably something like 2-stroke oil...?) added to the mix as a "carrier" (someone eluded to this earlier, in a post around page ~20). Just so the solvent (the naptha) gets to where it needs to go, before burning off. And the IPA (which is NOT the same stuff you buy at the drug store....the stuff at the drug store is usually only max 50%) and it's used as a solvent, but more for "drying" - since remember Seafoam is a multi-tool
One of it's feats, being to "stabalize" fuel and remove moisture from gasoline.But yea, I've noticed similar affects with MPG. After about 5 or so fillups, the MPG is back where it was before the Seafoam. But I still do swear by it.
I've been using the seafoam in the oil and gas tank before every oil change. I'll add it to the oil and gas, and ride around til the gas guage gets low, and then take it in for the oil change.
To those skeptical about driving long distances with the seafoam in the oil - it states on their website it's safe for MAXIMUM of 3k mi. in the crankcase - but no more.
But you gotta pick one method or the other, not both. I generally use the "pre-service" method:
As a pre service cleaner for old oil residue, sticky rings or valve train noise, pour 1 ½ ounces of Sea Foam Motor Treatment into the engine oil crankcase for EACH quart of oil capacity, including filter. Drive a MINIMUM of 30 minutes/miles, MAXIMUM 100 miles, and then do your oil change service – Lube, Oil & Filter (LOF). This begins the process of safely/slowly re liquefying the old oil residue so contaminants may flow and be filtered. This also makes your old oil dirtier, quickly, so a LOF service is necessary when the oil gets dirty. Great for Turbocharged & Supercharged applications where oils deteriorate so quickly due to heat, and leave those residues that NEED CLEANING.
into fresh oil, nearly fresh oil, or oil (used condition) that is NOT ready to be changed (based on mileage since last oil change), put the same amount of Sea Foam Motor Treatment into the crankcase as described above, and then regularly monitor your oil for color and clarity. Set a predetermined schedule for checking the oil condition on a mileage, timed, or event basis (like every time you add fuel, etc.) to determine when an oil service is necessary. Monitoring of the oil for color and clarity will tell you when it is time to do an oil change service. NOTE: Do not exceed 3,000 miles without changing the oil.
My Rio used to have an annoying "ticking" sound on cold start-up (if you can consider, 70oF "cold" here in Florida...lol). After the seafoam treatment in the oil, the tick was gone the next morning after adding the oil.
It's odd, I see so many videos where people add the seafoam to the gas or oil AFTER the intake/PCV/brake booster...but honestly, it's probably not a wise idea to induce a "room temperature liquid" to a "warmed up" engine.

Also, to the poster a couple pages back wondering who makes Seafoam. I was curious too...But, one of the EPA pages for "registered gas additives" revealed that "Warren Oil Company" actually packages/distribute Seafoam....but I don't know, all their MSDSheets list "Seafoam Sales Company". Kinda odd. Unless either the EPA site is outdated (things changed since the EPA approved the additive), or the MSDS has changed since then
#577
I did my first treatment of Seafoam last night. 1 can and I can already tell the difference. 89 3.0. It's good stuff!
#578
Did my first treatment also, and I can definitely tell the difference on start-up and at idle. 94 4runner w/ a 3VZ-E
#579
#580


