I recall rancho saying it was past its warranty? At the time of break i had had it 14 years. Besides i needed it fixed, could not deal with sending them the arm, so forth and so on. I took it off n just got it done. I'll photo patch later today.

 

Im in sacramento, yeah. But im at work right now. Does your kit look exactly like mine? I know that superbleeders is a 3" and its different from my kit. but we'll see. Lemme get all the parts together and figure it out then. lol Its still jsut lying in a plastic box in my room, along with the hubs. I still need to pay Ray some more visits to discuss my bumper and swap out one of the hubs, so its no big deal. I still need to get Torsion bars, and bj spacers... I also want the damn rain to go away... :/ Im really excited to get this on though.

just post those pictures up of your kit and setup Teuf. Im sure everyone is interested and so am I

 

Dang now i am getting nervous, i'm going to take a look at the upper and have it braced. I just have to find a NON Hack to do it.

 

wait... did your upper or lower arm crack?

 

Upper, lower is stock.

 

yeah thats what I figured, got confused for a minute there... lol Its not raining here in sacramento anymore... still raining where you are?

 

First off, I've only heard 1 claim of the Rancho UCA's faulting straight from the owner of the rig, and that's Teuf's; he brought it up during my suspension modifications.

That being said, I don't think that any of you other guys can bash on a suspension system until you've seen it fail yourself, or have personally seen pics of said failed part. For all you know it could have been a ball joint failure, and by the time this "story" got to you, the ball joint failure has turned into a faulty upper control arm if you catch my drift


I've been running my Rancho UCA's for a little while now, and have had NO issues what-so-ever. Non gusseted, and with 1.5" BJ spacers, and a 1" diff drop as well. No CV binding, between almost a full 12" of travel when the weight of the truck is put on one tire, and the other is off the ground, using the stock T-bars, and most importantly, none of this cracking, bending, or breaking I keep hearing about... and I've had the front-end air borne with them, and have put them through their paces at 50mph down a washed out road (washed out to the point of having AT LEAST 4"-5" dips, one right after the other, for about a quarter mile stretch), so I've worked the system in a little bit, and she still rides like a champ. If it ever does fail on me, I'll be the first to come forward and say "yeah you told me so", but untill them, I'll stand behind them.























I'm glad to see you take on such a project MaK92, and I wish you the best of luck! Be sure to post pics! Lots of them!

 

this goes along with the saying

"it's better to have something and not need it, than need something and not have it"

and you won't be giving Rancho a call if you're skull has been crushed in by a roll over LOL

i'm just giving my opinion of what " I " would do

you can do what you want, lol

 

Superbleeder, Do you have stock tie rods and what not still? The only thing different from you that i'm doing is...

Rancho shocks
Rancho Stabilizer
OME 23.5 Torsion bars
low profile bump stops

 

yes, stock tie rod ends right now...

and stock length shocks that I "extended" about a half an inch, and they allow for full movement believe it or not

I have a set of 26mm T-bars that I might end up installing, because the current setup does feel a little soft... after the bumper and winch I'll be installing in a months time, I'll probably make that decision, lol

and I'm using just an OEM style replacement steering stabiliser; no real reason for me to use anything different. I don't even think that's part of the original kit



what I do NOT have installed, but I wish I did have, is the diff drop hardware that comes with the kit, which you DO have pictured above... I made it work withough it, but only by using those massive droop bump-stops you see, which is limiting my dropp by almost 2 inches but it keeps the CV's from binding up at full droop

 

Okay good Im only going with 23.5mm T-Bars. a guy on Ih8temud.com said that anything bigger than 25mm is too stiff. Yeah I have a winch bumper and what not on it. so we'll see. Im trying to get the 12" flex you have maybe more? I just need to gather the BJ spacers and torsion bars then i'll undertake this project once it stops raining or once we clear some garage space.

 

yeah my inspiration came from the Ih8temud forums

more specifiacally, this thread

 

haha yeup! exactly where I got my idea from. Im copying everything this guy did except the custom work on the CVs and what not. I love how his turned out and hes got some amazing flex coming out of that IFS... did your kit not come with the shocks and stabilizer?

 

I went with the hd tb's, center axle to fender lip is the recommended, 24.5 inches, then alignment too 2.50 to 3.00 Caster
-0.25 to -0.75 Camber
1/16" to 3/16" Toe iMine is the Rancho kit #6429
Torsion bars have held up well, this truck has been a dd most its life so i have never really thrashed it offroad. Thats what my Sami was for, drove that like a rental. And its still raining and i an garage less for the time being. Thats a first, man it stinks seeing it get rained on.

 

no I got my kit second-hand; bough it from a member on the Ih8temud forums actually, who had used it a few months before going SA

all that came with it was the UCA's and the T-bars

 

weird... mine came with everything except the T-bars... lol I probably wont even use the drop brackets

 

if you're not going to use them, send them to me, I'll use them


or maybe post some good pics of them and some reough measurements... maybe I could make my own

 

Lol Why would you want to use the drop brackets?

 

cause then I could drop the dif down further where it's suppose to be, and be able to use stock sized, or maybe even shaved down dropp bump stops, and get a little more travel

 

The manual is 15 pages long, the first page I attached is the parts list. Tell me you didn't buy an incomplete kit from a design that was discontinued in the 1990s!

Of course there was a centerlink and longer tie rod adjusting sleeves. The ones I have machined for the Blazeland LT are slightly longer.