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So my truck ('94 pickup 22re 4x4) is running cold. Temp gauge doesn't move much past the C and I get little to no heat from the blower. I checked my coolant and saw that it was very low and foamy. I freaked out and put about a half gallon of distilled water in. That didn't really seem to help but now I feel better that it's topped off. I did not burp the system but I ordered a Lislie funnel to do that this weekend.
I'm worried that I have a leak or it's burning coolant from a leaking head gasket. I see no puddles on the ground, no smoke out the tail pipe, and my cab doesn't fog up and the floor panel is bone dry. I went with a flash light and my hand behind the dash, so I'm pretty certain the heater core isn't leaking. I'm loosing coolant somehow, though.
Still, my temp gauge doesn't raise much past C even after a 30 minute drive to work. Normally it sits about halfway on the gauge. Yes, I'm still driving it. Got nothing else to get to work. It runs fine but the idle is raised slightly (1500rpm) so it's still in the cold start period.
Like I said, this weekend I'm going to drain, flush and fill with coolant and properly burp it. Am I causing damage if I keep driving it? Anything else that I should check for leaks? Help is much appreciated.
I know this is long but a little back story. When I got the truck a couple years ago it had regular green coolant in it and I drained and flushed the system and filled with Pentofrost A1 and got a new OEM thermostat. I felt that time I properly burped it. No issues until now, two years later.
I’d pull t-stat and test it in a pan of water on the stove and a confectioners thermometer. You’ll need to use a string to suspend it in water. I test every t-stat before installing.
Have ve no idea what a Leslie funnel is but I pull front end on ramps and if motivated drop pressure in rear tires to squat them. If not motivated I fill it once warm drive up a hill then top off again.
Check oil. If loosing coolant could be into oil pan from timing chain cover or HG.
I’d pull t-stat and test it in a pan of water on the stove and a confectioners thermometer. You’ll need to use a string to suspend it in water. I test every t-stat before installing.
Have ve no idea what a Leslie funnel is but I pull front end on ramps and if motivated drop pressure in rear tires to squat them. If not motivated I fill it once warm drive up a hill then top off again.
Check oil. If loosing coolant could be into oil pan from timing chain cover or HG.
Pressure test system.
The Lisle thing: http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?product=606
Good thinking on checking the oil. I'll do that after work. Another thing I did when I got the truck was replace the timing chain, cover, tensioner/guides. Doesn't leak so hopefully that's not the issue.
Also smart to test the thermostat. I'll do that too. Is pressure testing the system a sure way to know it there's a leak? I mean, if it holds pressure, there's no leak right? Just want to be sure I cover my bases.
If someone put a fail safe in it could be blown open and you would be cold. If you suspect a head gasket after you have pressure tested it you can do a hydrocarbon test. They are like $30 from amazon and are more than a one time use as well. I would pressure test it first, compression test 2nd and then if you still suspect order or borrow a hydrocarbon tester.
If someone put a fail safe in it could be blown open and you would be cold. If you suspect a head gasket after you have pressure tested it you can do a hydrocarbon test. They are like $30 from amazon and are more than a one time use as well. I would pressure test it first, compression test 2nd and then if you still suspect order or borrow a hydrocarbon tester.
Not sure what a failsafe is but I doubt I have one. I'm going to buy a cooling system pressure tester and will test as soon as that comes. And thanks, I'll also do a compression check and I'll look into hydrocarbon testers. Much appreciated.
Just know after market radiator caps and thermostats seem to have really gone downhill
Then someone may have installed the wrong temperature thermostat
I tend to use OEM parts because of the quality control issues with aftermarket. Definitely going with OEM for the cooling system. Thanks for the heads up.
Speaking of oem parts, can someone tell me the part number of the radiator cap for my truck? 1994 Pickup, base model, 22re, manual, 4x4. Or, better yet, is there a list of part numbers with a microfiche/exploded parts diagram with everything in the truck? I use sites like CMSNL.com for my motorcycles, I just want something similar for my truck. A quick look up table to let me know which part numbers I need. Is this info in the factory service manual? I only have a Haynes.
It would be awesome to have the software the dealer has, or a big book, I like books better.
Not sure what a failsafe is but I doubt I have one. I'm going to buy a cooling system pressure tester and will test as soon as that comes. And thanks, I'll also do a compression check and I'll look into hydrocarbon testers. Much appreciated.
A failsafe thermostat is designed that so if it gets to hot it will permanently get stuck open. They also are very bad for 22re motors.
Speaking of OEM parts, can someone tell me the part number of the radiator cap for my truck? 1994 Pickup, base model, 22R-E, manual, 4x4. Or, better yet, is there a list of part numbers with a microfiche/exploded parts diagram with everything in the truck? I use sites like CMSNL.com for my motorcycles, I just want something similar for my truck. A quick look up table to let me know which part numbers I need. Is this info in the factory service manual? I only have a Haynes.
It would be awesome to have the software the dealer has, or a big book, I like books better.
The Factory Service Manual does not have part numbers listed (except for Special Service Tools and sealants). I agree, a book with a complete listing of part numbers and descriptions would be great, except that Toyota changes part numbers on quite a few parts. It would make looking things up easier though!
Toyota Parts Overstock is great for diagrams, however, their database doesn't always show all the available parts for these trucks. Sometimes it will show parts the fit other trucks, but not yours, even if it is still available from Toyota.
To figure out what exact part I need, I usually head over to Toyota Parts Deal and plug in my VIN. The downside is that they don't show the part diagrams. https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/
The Factory Service Manual does not have part numbers listed (except for Special Service Tools and sealants). I agree, a book with a complete listing of part numbers and descriptions would be great, except that Toyota changes part numbers on quite a few parts. It would make looking things up easier though!
I use Toyota Parts Overstock to look at factory part diagrams. The Lakeland Toyota dealership in Florida runs the site.
Here is the diagram for the radiator and cooling system: https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/sho...rimLevel=18381
Toyota Parts Overstock is great for diagrams, however, their database doesn't always show all the available parts for these trucks. Sometimes it will show parts the fit other trucks, but not yours, even if it is still available from Toyota.
To figure out what exact part I need, I usually head over to Toyota Parts Deal and plug in my VIN. The downside is that they don't show the part diagrams. https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/
Ok, so today I did a coolant flush and fill. Also back flushed the heater core. The coolant that came out was very rusty. The heater core cleaned out quick and no debris came out, just brown water.
Well Melrose, you were right about the thermostat being stuck open. Just glad I had another one. I also tested the new one as Muddpigg suggested and it opens exactly at 88°c (190°F). Pretty amazing little thing. After a few flushes and filling with Pentofrost A1 and distilled water I have HEAT! Can't wait to go to work on Monday in the cold, haha.
And yes, the one that was in there was an 82°c thermostat and I'm putting back in the factory recommended 88°c one.
I still have to keep an eye on the level but I don't think the heater core is leaking. Hopefully it's not an engine internal thing. After my pressure tester comes I can test. I'll probably do that on Thanksgiving. By then I'll have my new radiator cap too and I should be in business.
I'll update as I gather more info. Thanks everyone for the help!
Lastly, there seems to be a small oil film on the coolant/rust I drained out. I checked my oil level and it's not any higher than the full mark and doesn't seem to have water in it. Is this a sure sign of oil in the coolant? I see no globulars balls of oil, just this film that's probably hard to see in the picture.
Glad that worked Dave. Incidentally, i replaced my own thermostat with a new Aisin 88C last night. I didnt think mine was heating up fast enough and didnt know exactly what was in there. It was a different brand 88C. Seems not to have made much difference. I was sweating pulling those bolts out but took the time to clean them and anti-seize them during reassembly so it will be no problem next time. I remember my 84 4runner back in the 90s didnt have all that spectacular heat and i used to run some cardboard in front of the radiator. My 86 seems just about the same.
Last edited by Melrose 4r; 11-18-2017 at 06:26 PM.
I was thinking of adding cardboard but after I opened the radiator cap I knew I had issues.
Speaking of radiator caps, I just got mine and went to put it in this morning. It's a little shorter in height than the existing one and doesn't seem to preload the spring when installed. With the existing one, I need some pressure to pop it in but this one doesn't feel the same. I didn't install it. I'm not sure the seal will seal. Can someone measure their cap's overall height?
My radiator says GM on it. Do I have a factory radiator? See pictures:
My current old cap. I don't see the pressure rating.
11-15-2017, 05:21 AM
then top off again. 
