Ok, so my truck looked like....pooo. Even a monkey with a paint brush would make an improvement, so keep that in mind before telling me it's going to look bad.

I realize I've probably already made mistakes, but what I want to know is the best technique moving forward with the materials and situation I've gotten myself into. So please try to focus more on HOW I should proceed rather than what I SHOULD have done.

I washed, sanded, and rattle can primered it. A couple years ago I bought a bunch of rattle cans of "automotive" paint from Autozone with the intention of painting it. After the primer, I applied said cans of paint, and it just wasn't enough to get a completely even coat. So rather than spend another $50 on more rattle cans, I decided to spend $100 on an acrylic enamel paint kit, including reducer and hardener, and $30 on a paint gun with a built-in pressure gauge. My intention is to apply the new paint over the rattle can paint (pretty sure it is also acrylic), and I want to know the best plan of action moving forward. The paint is dark blue metallic, if that matters, and it's a solid coat for the most part, but the hood has some spots noticeably darker than others. The new paint is navy blue (non-metallic, because I heard that's easier to work with)

So I'm assuming that I should sand it, and wipe it down before applying the new paint.

I've watched some youtube videos to get an idea of the spraying technique, but my biggest question is this:
How long do I wait between coats of paint? Do I spray the whole car, and then spray it again? I've seen conflicting advice online - some saying 15-20 minutes between coats, and some saying 24 hours (or more), wetsanding, and then a new coat.

Would love to hear from anyone with experience with this kind of paint.

And again, no need to educate me on the glories of urethane vs. acrylic - I've read plenty of that in my research. Thanks in advance!

 

No specific experience with your materials, but in general, you want to have a wet edge as you work on a coat; paint an area, move next to it (overlapping a few inches). This helps the paint form a single mass rather than a bunch of little patches (think ConTac paper rather than rows of tape). If you're not worried about overall looks, do one continuous piece of metal at a time. Don't forget behind things (windows, door edges, all the bits covered by the tailgate - especially this), inside the fenders, between the bed and cab if you can. Anything you can take off while you paint, take off (lock boxes, antenna, &c.).

 

Sounds like you can be a lab rat for a cheap paint job experiment lol! Do you have any pics? Brake fluid ate some of my paint so I may steal some ideas.

 

It get's worse. Upon further research I've realized that my compressor is WAYYYYY underpowered. My solution: borrow two other compressors from friends and alternate to give them a chance to rest and cool down.

This is going to be interesting.

 

This guy has videos on the technique


https://www.youtube.com/user/paintucation


You might find lots of shorts on YouTube that help show how you move the sprayer. The recoat time will depend on the product. They should have given you an info sheet with the paint. You need at least a 21 gallon compressor. You can rent one at some Home Depots or other tool places. You should get a moisture filter. They are really cheap from Harbor Freight, like $5.


I bookmarked this thread. It's old but I hope it helps:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...y-87-a-177741/

 

I would get a few small scrap pieces of steel, prep them same way your truck is painted now, and shoot it with the kit you have as test panels. Then you can get the spray pattern of the gun dialed in, the PSI set right, and the spray technique down. With the multiple test panels, you can also get a good time figured out between coats.

 

im painting my 87 now. in a open shop. base coat and 3 coats clear. Working great with a 75 dollar eastwood hvlp gun and eastwood paint.

This is right after spraying clear.
next
Wet same with 1000, 2500, 3000 compound then polish. its like glass now.

 

Nice job! Mine came out orange peely, but my wife came out and said, "Hey it's like a matte finish." To which I replied, "....um....yeah....YEAH, a matte finish!"

But again, $100 in paint, $16 gun, and a much improved look.

WORTH IT!

 

Well it sounds like you have already done the deed. I was going to ask where in Nor-cal you are, as I am in Sacramento and I used to spray professionally, and could offer alot of help.

 

I am sure it looks better then what you started with and it will give you the confidence to do it again on a future project. Shooting paint has never been an issue for me but shooting clear is where I have the difficulty at. At least it is the coat that can be worked over with fine grit sandpaper. I think you will enjoy knowing you painted it yourself and the results. Congrats.

 

 

Ya, Pics would be great! I hope you post some!

 

Post some pics of the new paint. We'd like to see.

 

What do i know i would use a brush or roller .

It works for me !!

Then 4 colors is normal for anything I drive.

 

Pics!

 

My 86. I applies 2 coats of clear to keep the disc brake dust from stainin the more porous sliver paint.

 

Looks new!

 

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