OK, so I was given the suggestion to use Anti-Seize on everything when I put my 4Runner back together --

What would you definitely NOT put anti-sieze on and why?

Kat

 

windshield wipers... messy

honestly though... I have no good advice, sorry, though I do use it on anything I take apart (providing I know where the anti-seize is at the time)

 

Yep - just about everything you ever want to be able to take apart again...

 

good to know you do use it on everything -- I feel like a dope asking this, but no question is dumb, right? (ok, so i disagree with my own statement)

If you use antiseize somewhere where loctite is normally used, will it let the nut loosen up? I have in mind drive shaft bolts or diff cover bolts for example

Living In AZ most of my life, i never had to deal with rust until moving to Virginia(and I am sure this is nothing compared to you folks up north)

 

Diff cover bolts yes, Driveline companion bolts, no.

Any bolt that is subjected to water, mud, road salt, de-icer, is a good place for anti seize.

 

I appreciate all the responses --

Reason for asking about the driveshaft bolts is that I buggered 2 of the 4 of them up today

 

been a while since I took my DS off, but thought it had lockwashers ...

Note that antiseize is going to act as a lubricant while tightening the bolts and you'll get a more accurate torque value, and you can get the bolts tighter and therefore less likely to loosen up in the first place.

 

makes sense -- part of my issue was is that it rusted between the bolt and the round hole so much that i got the nut off the back and then i had to pound it out of the hole and then to my surprise i got the shaft out and still had to beat on it for a while to get it out of the shaft -- The lock washer and the bolt bonded as well as the fact there was enough rust around the length of the bolt to cover a parking lot

 

FWIW, there are two kinds of anti-seize out there (that I know of at least). There is the regular silver-colored aluminum-based stuff that works quite well for most things. Then there is the copper colored, copper-based stuff (available only at NAPA AFAIK) that works very well on high-heat applications like exhaust system bolts. I keep both varieties on hand all the time. The copper stuff is the best all around except that it is a bit more spendy. So I only use it where it excels (exhaust) and use the cheaper silver stuff everywhere else.

 

Note that electrical NoAlOx is the same stuff as the silver anti-seize...

 

I use it just about everywhere except on lug nuts and places where it could foul up a sensor.

You'll want to pay special attention to bolts that are made of a dissimilar metal than the metal around it that it is in contact with(bolted to), because the electrochemical reactions between the two dissimilar metals(which are magnified significantly by the presence of water, and much more by the presence of road salt) will create a tremendous rust growth potential in those areas and increase the likelyhood of the bolts and surrounding metal rusting together.

One of the most important bolts to really treat with this stuff are the botls that hold the bed and cab to the frame. These seem to be situated in ideal locations for maximum salt spray off of the tires, and they are made of a different metal than the surrounding metal.

 

Thank you all for the opinions on the subject -- I have certainly learned quite a bit.