I have an Amsoil air filter and my mechanic recommend changing it...

The reason why is because the filter oil got in the air sensor and it burn it ... the check engine was on and when he replace the sensor (I think, the sensor was like $120) it turn off.

I know many of you use this filter. Does any one have the same problem with the Amsoil filter?

 

nope, make sure when you re oil it, you use a paper towel to dab it...to get the excess oil off.

 

The Amsoil air filters work great as long as you don't over oil them. After oiling or when they are new, you need to blot them almost dry with a towel before putting them in.

I will bet you $1.00 that simply cleaning the MAF sensor would have been enough. Do a search for one of the dozens of threads on this subject.

 

I put an amsoil filter(new) in about 4k ago and no problems for me. Just take it easy on the re-oil.

 

I'm going to clean the MAF, but where can I buy the cleaning solution?

 

Again, searching will pay off in spades. There have been dozens of threads about this in the past years.

You need a plastic safe electronics cleaner.

 

...and, I should mention that you need to do it the right way or you will wreck the MAF.

 

You can get the Electronic Parts Cleaner at any parts store.Cleaning it will most likely fix your problem.

 

10,000 miles on mine and no problem.

 

I have about 20,000 miles on mine and no trouble at all. All the aftermarket hi flow aircleaners can be over oiled and mess up the mass air sensor. K&N are notorious for this but again it is because they are being over oiled.

Your Amsoil is one of the better filters I would not replace it.

 

Ok --- I gotta ask what everyone thinks are the signs of oil fouling the MAF.

I got a k&n for my 02 (sc'd) and dropped it in --- it was oiled REALLY heavily right out of the box. A few months later, the engine started losing power while cruising - engine would still run and rev, but no power output! (really sucked on the freeway). It would seem to clear itself after ~30-60 seconds - but it would be sporadic - usually on hot days. I noticed it was happening more in around town driving, its just that the loss of power was harder to notice then. I thought it was an an ignition or fuel problem - problem could never be repeated for the dealer.

I found the thread on oiled filters fouling the MAF, so I pulled the k&n and eventually the problem went away. I did pull the MAF and clean it - it didn't look all THAT dirty.

I've been toying with the thought of trying the k&n again with a lighter coating of oil, but I just haven't had a good feeling about running it.

Is the over oiled k&n what was causing the problem? What has everyone else seen as effects of oil fouled MAFs?

 

Usually the only way you can tell is having hte Check Engine light come on. I had done the FIPK K&N system on my Taco whcih was also over oiled out the box and set the Check Engine light On. It still had full power but your SC'er may react differantly and I know nothing about TRD SC's. Check out Gadget's web site. It has tons of info on this stuff and it is not just opinions. He dyno's thinks and goes about it bery scientifically. Cool!

 

Loss of performance is the first sign, crappy mileage can be another. Finally, if you ignore those, the result is usually a "Check Engine" light.

K&N's are famous for throwing oil, usually because the user over oils them or doesn't clear off the excess oil out of the box. People think if a little oil is good, more must be better... nope...

 

My K&N threw the check engine light within 5 minutes.I also cleaned it according to the recomended write ups I found.I kept having the light come periodicaly"like five times" and noticed a huge problem with power when it did.I finally got PO'd at it and totally hosed the crap out of the sensor.I figured at that point if I screwed it up I was gonna need a new one anyhow.I haven't had problem since.

 

Oh' don't forget to reset the computer after doing it.I'm in the wrong buisness if it's $120.to pull a fuse out and put it back in.

 

I think that the biggest issue with the K&N is that it is a gauze type filter vs the Amsoil and Truflow which are foam type filters. The main difference being that oil on the front side of the filter often gets trapped inside a foam filter vs the K&N where there is just one layer of gauze before the oil can pass right to the MAF. I'd suggest sticking to a foam type filter for engines with MAFs (this is also why it is fine to run a K&N on a 2nd gen, since they have an AFM instead of a MAF).

I've been running with my Amsoil for near 40k miles with no issue at all but when you reoil it, I usually stand on the foam part while wrapped in paper towels to get out the excess oil.

You should be maintaining your foam filter as Bob outlines like this:
http://www.4runners.org/articles/amsoil/

 

I'm at nearly 109K on my Tacoma.
I've had the Amsoil air filter in there since 30K.
I had the filter in when all of San Diego was covered in a thick cloud of smoke from the Cedar fires. I had the filter in (and deckplate off :pat: ) in the dunes. I had the filter in during heavy rain.
No problems. Period.

 

I had the same problem with a Comptech filter in my Acura. But I think it was a Throttle Position Sensor affected by the oil.



I started to oil the filter as directed, and then let it sit overnight on a towel. No more problems.

 

Thanks for all the comments! I'm going to clean the MAF and keep my filter