Ok someone told me that the 97+ ECUs for the 5VZ-FE have extra maps for boost, stock, basically for the TRD supercharger at like 7-8psi. Is this true? If so how much airflow can the maps read up to?

The reason I ask is because I was thinking about turboing my T-100. Mine is a 1996 though. Could I use a 97+ ECU?


Or should I just say screw all of that an use Megasquirt?



For a Turbo I was thinking of using like a CT-26 or a T3/T4 or something that would give quick spoolup but still allow me to cruise and not be boosting.


I think there was an old thread on here with a Turbo T-100 but no pictures anymore. I think it would be a sweet project.

 

nobody?

 

Hey man try checking out http://www.customtacos.com. They are much more knowledgable about turbos over there.

 

Yeah the later ECUs are programed better to handle boost, but it may take some rewiring to switch ECUs. The pinout and plugs changed from year to year and model to model, sometimes even changing mid-year. I'm running a 2001 ECU in my 93 truck (and 10-11 psi of boost) so it can be done.

There are some guys here running boost with a 96 5VZFE though. Most are using the URD kits:
http://www.urdusa.com/index.php?cPat...k3ivelbpues3e3

I think URD is about to release a better FTC for the earlier 5VZFE ECUs, one that will control the closed loop A/F better.

 

I talked to Gadget about some of these issues, as my ECM/motor is 1996 as well. The 98 ECM is supposedly the most ideal for blowing (don't hold me to that, my memory is dim on it). But Gadget pointed out that he put 200,000 miles on a blown 1996 that ran extremely well with his stuff, so swapping ECMs is a waste of time compared to utilizing some of Gadget's stuff.

I chose to stay NA, glad I did looking at premium prices. It will last just that much longer I suppose, though 200K is nothing to sneeze at.

 

Yeah even if you did switch ECUs you would still need an additional FTC piggyback of some kind. Especially boosting more than about 7 psi.

 

I guess if I was going to rewire an ECU, Megasquirt would be the best option. No point in pulling pins and messing with connectors for a stock ECU I guess.