Im going to try and keep this short and sweet and to the point so there's not a big long book to read.


Its a 1995 truck 4x4, The engine is 1988 22re. Bought the motor tore it down and took it to get bored .30 over.


Bought the engine kit off of engnblder on ebay and it went together pretty easy. After installing the pistons it seemed really tight while spinning it around with a wrench, but i figured this was just the bigger pistons.


installed it in the truck and hooked it up, first fire the distributor was off a tooth and it ran rough for maybe 10 seconds then shut off.


I then searched on here for people having the same problem and tried, priming the oil pump, holding the vane in the MAF censor open, rechecking vacuum lines and electrical connections. nothing


Its fires and seems to have all the symptoms of a rebuilt being started for the first time, but then after a few seconds its seems to start to struggle, like its trying to seize up almost and then shuts off, then it labors to turn back over if you try and start it again right away.


This was the meat and potato's of the story, please anything will help at this point, i just want to get the truck back on the road.

 

Alot times when wiring harnesses and sensors are disoconnected for an extended period of time. Esp. on engines rebuilds i have seen it alot. When the harnesses or connectors are plugged back in they are not making a good connection or have some slight trash and or corrosion in them. While its running "wiggle" and or check the conncters going to the "TPS" "Air flow meter" "Coolant temp sensor" "Cold start time switch" <-- next to coolant temp. Even the distributor pick-up coil connector and ignition assembleys.

There is one problem i see alot on these trucks when they are pulled apart is that the "cold start time switch and the coolant temp sesnor" connectors are "flipped" or swaped around and can very well cause this condition.

Possible "froze" and or stuck fuel injectors? Try spraying an alternative fuel into the engine while its running and see if it "idles-up" or returns to normal operation for a sec.

It is possible that Piston to cylinder wall clearance is "too tight." Incorrect cylinder boring and honing? Incorrect piston and or ring size? When Rebuilding and or machining engine parts "Engines forgive too much clearnace but never too little." Meaning its better to have clearances slightly over rather than under at all.

Compression check?--^

Possible lack of lubrication is possible? Oil in engine?

Are you breaking in the engine properly its best to run it a little bit above idle upon first start for a few secs like around 1000-2000 rpms.

 

Ok so I have pulled the motor back out of the truck and started to take it back apart. Sunday when I started it for the first time it did the same thing, runs for 20 seconds then starts to labor hard and then shuts off,

This time I grabbed a wrench and tried to turn the crank, it was frozen, after a few minutes it freeded up.

Rod and main bearings still look new, crank is in ok shape, not much different then when I put it in. I'm pulling the head and pistons now, but I'm very lost now, I figured I'd at least find a trashed bearing, any help is appreciated. And the oil pump was functioning at the time when I installed it.

 

More than likely theres a clearance(too tight) somewhere in either the bearings or the pistons... more than likely piston to cylinder wall clearnace too tight.

The pistons in a 22r engine are aluminum and head up twice as fast and twice as much as steel(iron block) so if the clearance is too tight the piston will "sweell" and grap the cylinder wall.

 

did you check the bearing clearance when you assembled the motor?