Only 5k miles on this 22re rebuild. Doesn't smoke at all and the tail pipe is pretty clean.

I did some searching here and saw that a bad PCV valve could let oil by through the valve cover and into the intake. I replaced it with a brand new valve. The PCV I replaced is being pointed at in the first pic.

What is the purpose of the hose in the second pic? Seems like it is the same thing, but there was no PCV valve in it when I tore it down like there was in the back one?

Now here's the kicker----I look in my Chilton manual, and it says this on pg 1-12

"On models with fuel injection, there is no PCV valve. Vapor passage in the ventilation lines is controlled by two orifices.........."

So, do I have a PCV valve where there shouldn't be one? LOL

 

All 22RE`s have a PCV valve. The PCV valve is what your pointing to in the first picture, the second picture is a vent hose that either conects to the throttle body or intake manifold, depending on the year of the truck.

I doubt the PCV is causing your oil loss. If i had to guess, i would say that either the rings havn`t seated, or the valve seals are leaking. What kind of oil are you using ?. For the break in period you should use nothing but regular motor oil, NOT SYNTHETIC, and drive it hard to seat the rings, and after that your good to go.

 

thx for the response myyota but why would my Chiltons say there is no PCV valve on fuel injected models?

Also, how long should it take for the rings to seat? Like said, I have about 5k miles on it and I haven't really babied it by any means. Should I just drive it excessively hard for a while?

I am using regular motor oil. I like Castrol or Valvoline

 

I have no idea why your Chiltons manual says there is no PCV valve, every 22RE that ive ever seen has one. My 86 4Runner 22RE has one and its all stock.
Unless there calling it by another name, like a check valve or something like that ?.

Ive seen some motors take up to ten thousand miles to fully break in, but usually doesn`t take that long. Don`t be afraid to rev the engine higher than normal or shift at a higher than normal rpm. Who rebuilt the engine ?.

 

I rebuilt the engine. You can see the build thru the link in my signature.

 

I just noticed your in Idaho, were abouts are you located ?.

 

Meridian. I see you're up in the land of the turkeys!!

 

Don't look at a chilton's manual and expect it to be correct all the time. Look in a Factory Service Manual... You need a PCV. Chilton's are good books. But sometime they are totally wrong. TRUST ME... FSM...FSM...FSM... CHilton's and HAyne's WILL eventually steer you wrong.

So, that being said.

First... How much oil do you burn?? How many miles are on the motor right that ARE NOT highway crusing miles??
How did you clock your piston rings on install?
How did you break in this new rebuild?
What oil you run? For break in and currently.
How are your driving habits?
Is it a ROCK/Engnbldr rebuild kit?
Is your EGR hooked up for the rebuild?
If you are interested I can show ya how to setup an oil catch can for your pcv valve and for that line goin to the intake, so you get NO oil in the intake ever.

 

I would be interested in the oil catch can set up.

 

1) I need to add 1/2 -3/4 qt every third fill on avg.
2) 85% of the 5k miles on it now are highway cruising miles as I drive 40 freeway miles 5 days a week
3) I made 100% positive the rings were set as directed. Meaning I made sure the gaps were 90 degrees apart if that makes sense. The gaps were nowhere near each other
4) I broke it in by driving it. That's it. Just driving like I do normal today.
5) I run 5W 30 oil from the get go. Just good ol Castrol GTX
6)My driving habits are pretty conservative. No reving or high rpm shifting. Mostly freeway driving
7) I got the rebuild kit from the machine shop that bored my block
8)EGR????? Help me there.
9) I am interested in anything to help my dilema so let me know maybe in a PM

Thx

 

I just moved here about a year ago. Im not a hunter but im into guns and shooting. Ive havn`t seen any turkeys around here yet, but i see lots of deer and some moose. I had to do a google search to see were Meridian idaho was, your about 220 miles from me.

 

On your next oil change try a heavier oil, like 10w 30 at a minimum, i think the 5w 30 is a little light for these engines.

 

I will PM you in a couple hrs. Gonna go shoot some guns. =)

I got some pointers that will really help!

 

Yep. I don't get up your way very often but it's nice country up there. Where you move here from and why??

 

Hey Kat, sorry you're having a Gremlin Ranching going on in there! lol... I CAN RELATE!

Well, I guess it's more of a "Nannee nannee, neener neener, can't find me!" problem, but yeah, with a new rebuild, that can hinder the comfort you should have from a NEWLY BUILT MOTOR!

Are you saying, just so I can be clear, that you HAVE NO LEAKS! What can sometimes appear to be a small leak while/once sitting, can REALLY leak while you're rolling down the road(Most often a rear main seal, as the front main slings oil ALL OVER the place through a deflector).

If you're sure you're USING oil, not just 'mysteriously losing it' and that you have 'NO LEAKS' .....then I would usually go to Rings, even on a new rebuild. It can depend on VERY SMALL, THOUSANDTHS OF AN INCH type things, really... but even with my TOTALLY SCREWED UP first rebuilt motor, done by a 'supposed pro', ... I didn't burn/use hardly any oil, certainly not as much as you say you are.

At 5K, it might not be a bad idea to do a compression test, ya know? That MIGHT lead to a leak down if the compression test is not very telling, but even then, you're not losing anything but time and gas to go rent a kit to test it. At 5K they should be TOTALLY seated, ......and in fact, ...at much less than that. I just dealt with this, in my build, few pages back as I finished the second rebuild using a different block, same pistons, new rings.

 

I moved out of the peoples republic of california. My folks retired and moved here in 2006 and they wanted me to move here also, but because of work and bills i couldn`t at the time. But last year i had had enough of california, the taxes and registration fees are outragious and the crime rate is real bad. And the fact that you can`t protect your self because california won`t issue carry permits so the criminals just run wild there.
So i moved here, and its a great place to live. I can buy all the guns i want, there is no waiting period, and i got a CCW permit. Im very glad to be here because i feel a lot more free to do what i want.

I just got back from a 50 mile ATV ride, and i actually saw my first turkey out on the trail today.

 

Chef,

If I do a compression test on each cylinder, will that tell me if the rings are doing they're job properly?


I am 99.9% sure it's NOT a leak. If it were the rings, would I not be getting smoke out the pipe?

 

myyota,

California to Grangeville Id.............MAN! What a difference. You probably wish you had moved here earlier. Look up the Magruder Corridor trail and take your yota for a drive. Lots of cool country to see up your way. If you like to fish, get knowledgeable on salmon and steelhead too! You're in a great spot!

 

Yea, its a huge difference, and i do wish i could have moved here sooner, but thats ok, im here now. Thanks for the tips on the trail and the fishing.

 

I moved from NH to Comfornia. I went from having a friend bringing his m60 to my yard to shoot, to having to pay to register a firearm. Lord help me.