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Old Oct 29, 2017 | 04:00 PM
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From: Stillwater, Ok
Starting problem

Hello all,

I have a 1987 Toyota pickup with the 22r. Started out with the problem which you turn the key and all you would hear is the starter relay would click. So I read another post about that and that is how I trouble shot what was wrong by running a wire from the starter solenoid to the positive battery post and it fired right up so I cleaned up the black plug in and it worked fine for a little bit. Now it seems if it sets for a few hours and I go back out it won’t turn over, the starter relay will just click like before, but if I take that wire like before and jump it I can use the key for a while again until it sets for awhile and goes back to not starting again. I’m at a lose, I even put on a new connector. Any sugestions?
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Old Oct 29, 2017 | 11:22 PM
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From: Colorado
Keep searching!

Have another search for the write up rad4runner did on the starting system.

Basicly it comes down to too much current draw running thru the terminal inside the ignition switch, yes even with the relay, and its just not up to the task (for long).
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Old Oct 30, 2017 | 10:21 AM
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I'm 99% know what the root cause is, but give a man fish everyday and he'll have enough fish for those days; teach him how to fish and he'll have fish for the rest of his life.

Originally Posted by Josport48
Hello all,
... I trouble shot what was wrong by running a wire from the starter solenoid to the positive battery post and it fired right up...
You did correct troubleshooting ^^^

so I cleaned up the black plug in and it worked fine for a little bit.
But you are not describing your problem well. How many black plugs are there on a 1987 4Runner?
Always specify model-year-engine transmission-trim on problem statement OR BETTER YET PUT IT ON YOUR SIGNATURE.
You sure it's the starter relay that's clicking? Where is it? Nothing else clicks? Do/does relays/relay click energetically?

How can we help you if you may be thousands of miles away and we do not see, hear, feel, smell what you're looking at?

Last edited by RAD4Runner; Oct 30, 2017 at 10:25 AM.
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Old Nov 1, 2017 | 11:34 AM
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From: sammamish, wa.
Originally Posted by RAD4Runner
I'm 99% know what the root cause is, but give a man fish everyday and he'll have enough fish for those days; teach him how to fish and he'll have fish for the rest of his life.
Or give a man some vienison and he will eat for a day. Teach a man to hunt black tail and he will be frustrated the rest of his life.
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Old Nov 1, 2017 | 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by thefishguy77
or give a man some vienison and he will eat for a day. Teach a man to hunt black tail and he will be frustrated the rest of his life.
lol! Lol!
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Old Nov 2, 2017 | 05:43 AM
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From: Stillwater, Ok
Thanks guys, sorry for the vague description of my problem and sorry it took so long for me to get back, college has had me loaded up with work. I also updated my signature. It is the starter relay on the passenger fender that is clicking you can hear it and feel it click if you are touching it. The starter solenoid is not clicking at all. The black plug in a was referring to is the stater solenoid plug in on the side of the starter itself.
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Old Nov 2, 2017 | 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Josport48
... running a wire from the starter solenoid to the positive battery post and it fired right ...
This^^ ^ consistently cranked the starter motor, correct?

Originally Posted by Josport48
... It is the starter relay on the passenger fender that is clicking you can hear it and feel it click if you are touching it. The starter solenoid is not clicking at all. ...
Good job.
Here's your 30-minute fix... See Griswald's post, on Yotatech or T4R.ORG for parts list.
(Hot shot is off-the-shelf but it requires more work than the simple re-wire below. )



CAVEAT:
I RECENTLY REALIZED THAT WHEN THE STARTER RELAY IS WIRED CORRECTLY ACCORDING TO SCHEMATIC, IN THE UNLIKELY* EVENT THAT THE STARTER RELAY CONTACTS CLOSE OR SHORT FOR SOME REASON STARTER WILL CRANK EVEN WITHOUT IGNITION SWITCH BEING TURNED ON. IF PARKED IN FIRST GEAR, TRUCK MAY MOVE AND CAUSE AN ACCIDENT. A KILL SWITCH IN SERIES WITH THE FUSED LINE IS HIGHLY-RECOMMENDED. JUST KEEP WIRE RUN TO MINIMUM. THE CORRECTED CIRCUIT/WIRING WILL STILL PROVIDE ENOUGH POWER TO STARTER SOLENOID.


Suggested Install Layout:

Last edited by RAD4Runner; Nov 2, 2017 at 07:48 AM.
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Old Nov 2, 2017 | 06:54 AM
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From: Stillwater, Ok
Quote:Originally Posted by Josport48
... running a wire from the starter solenoid to the positive battery post and it fired right ...
This^^ ^ consistently cranked the starter motor, correct?
^^^ Yes this is correct.



Thank you for the detailed pictures! So I would also need to install a kill switch in the wire (indicated in red above with 30 amp fuse) but keep the amount of wire ran to a minimum correct? So as saying running it into the cab would not be ideal.
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Old Nov 2, 2017 | 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Josport48
So I would also need to install a kill switch in the wire (indicated in red above with 30 amp fuse) but keep the amount of wire ran to a minimum correct? So as saying running it into the cab would not be ideal.
I ran mine into the cab. 12 AWG wire, no issues. The corrected wiring is much better than 15 or so feet of wire into cab, to ignition switch (that also adds resistance), and back to engine compartment. But yes, as short as possible. OR use 10AWG to be safe.
Relay contacts closing while at rest is very remote chance... maybe in very rare cases like this - LOL!
If you do not park in gear, no need for kill switch.

Last edited by RAD4Runner; Nov 2, 2017 at 07:48 AM.
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Old Nov 2, 2017 | 08:07 AM
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Okay awesome, I will run the kill switch also just to be safe. Maybe I can get to it this weekend if I have a break from school work. Thank you again for all the help!
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Old Nov 2, 2017 | 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Josport48
Okay awesome, I will run the kill switch also just to be safe. Maybe I can get to it this weekend if I have a break from school work. Thank you again for all the help!
School is cool​​​​​​. Good luck and if you become auto designer or have influence on design, please restore Toyota's to the classic lines of the 70-series and 80's Hilux variety, not the ricer looks they have now.
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