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spool or lockright???? cheap

Old Sep 24, 2010 | 08:05 PM
  #21  
drkblu4runner's Avatar
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From: north cali
ouch!!!,,,,,

well that is what i wanted to know tho,,, for $300 to lock f&r thats about how much a spool cost right?

what i really want to know is how much torque will lock it up. just a little tension?
will it lock if im idlingish into a parking spot

thanks for ((ALL)) the posts tho
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 08:15 PM
  #22  
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Don't forget new bearings.
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 08:40 PM
  #23  
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Hey, I just put an Aussie in mine a little while ago. The clicking sucks, but the ability to lock it up at any time is awesome. I can be going like 30 and smack the gas around a curve to get some tire-chirping. The harder you hit the gas, the harder it locks.
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 08:56 PM
  #24  
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With the Aussie, keeping tension in the drive shaft is important to avoid the clunking and banging while taking slow turns.
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 11:33 PM
  #25  
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From: Nashville TN. I can help you if you're close BUT NOBODY CAN HELP YOU IF YOU DON'T FILL YOUR LOCATION IN!
Originally Posted by drkblu4runner
what i really want to know is how much torque will lock it up. just a little tension?
will it lock if im idlingish into a parking spot
What are you worried about? You said you wanted cheap, remember?

ARB's and E-Lockers don't come on beer budgets... You have to learn to compromise.

I already told you when it will and will not lock and unlock. It's simple...

"The harder the driving torque, the stronger the tooth engagement. When entering a turn, the driver on the outside of the turn advances ahead of the cross shaft so there is no torque or outward force imposed on this driver. "

If there is so much torque the drivers can not dis-engage, you will make that turn in full spool.

Ever try and take a car out of gear going down hill without the clutch? You can't do it.

On level ground it'll come right out though, won't it?

There is no, "hey in this turn it will, and this turn it won't". It all depends on "the driving torque"

Originally Posted by scottishb
With the Aussie, keeping tension in the drive shaft is important to avoid the clunking and banging while taking slow turns.
You say that like the clicking and "banging" is a bad thing?

W/o it, it's just a spool... And will eat your tires accordingly...


And I've never heard anyone complain about an Aussie banging before.

You're the first.

http://www.aussielocker.com/index.ph...tions/#answer3

Last edited by tried4x2signN; Sep 24, 2010 at 11:37 PM.
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 11:39 PM
  #26  
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From: Los Angeles CA
This guy wants a weld job, cheap as it gets.
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Old Sep 25, 2010 | 11:30 AM
  #27  
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From: Ottawa, Illinois
Whoa. When the Aussie clicks, it's OK. The clunking happens without any tension on the driveshaft, because of the extra slop. The slop causes it to grab and hang on more before it lets loose. I dunno, you have to drive it to get it.

Bottom line: The lunchbox locker is very streetable. At the $300 range you're gonna have quirks.
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Old Sep 25, 2010 | 02:02 PM
  #28  
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From: virginia
have you seen the spartan lockers? cheaper then lockrites and aussies. bascially the same thing
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 01:55 AM
  #29  
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From: Spokane, WA
Lol i don't get it.
He wanted cheap cheaqp..
but then he buys the 300 dollar set.
A spool and a lincoln locker are the same thing, effectively, of course..
A lincoln locker = generally free if you have the oil, RTV, and welder to do it.
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 10:29 PM
  #30  
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From: north cali
worn tires are not free tho. since its 45 min to the trail i figured its not worth fullylocked, and at 145 each i couldn't help myself.

i have the lockrite in the rear 3rd just need to put in pack in the diff.. ill post the outcome.
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 03:26 AM
  #31  
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From: Northern Canada
^^^^^ tried4x2signN agreed.

worry not about the locker. my lockrite in the rear is fine. drove about 150km on it before truck developed non-related issues and it got parked. Never had the back end do anything funky with me on highway, downtown, traffic, etc.

Last edited by ab_mekanik; Sep 29, 2010 at 03:28 AM.
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 05:24 AM
  #32  
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Lunch box lockers like the aussie need some torque from the motor to work rite.It keeps the drive tire locked and the out side tire spinning faster thus the clicking sound.To much torque and both tires will lock up.Lock-rite has its own problems but street-ability is not one of them.Most people that has used lock-rite and aussie like the aussie better,but you already bought the lock-rite so,drop it in and don't forget the new bearings and crush sleeve..
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 06:21 AM
  #33  
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The other members have already said a lot, but, just wanna share my experience with spools. Any time you change your vehicles perofrmance or handling characteristics (ex, switching from open to locked diff), it will handle much differently, and depending on the setup you're going for, the cost will vary (initial cost vs long run cost). Spools or anyhting that keeps both tires positively locked, cost you big buckks down the road! I know this isn't a yota, but the principle applies. I'm restoring a 67 Chevy Impala, and I had a 450hp 383ci engine paired to a thm400 last summer, with a dana 60 I bought (stupidly I got it with a spool, as opposed to spending an extra 400 and getting a locker). Within a few days of driving around the city (without being hard on the gas), it had scrubbed off almost all of my brand new tires! which wouldve cost me way too much in rubber alone, but the other downside is, around a sharp corner going into a parkade, I made sure i was light and constant on the gas, and I snapped the axle in my dana! Low speed turns= the devil!! I seriously regret not spending the extra few hundred and getting a locker. I know what its like to be cheap, but in the end my friend, doing things the right way pays off in more ways than one!
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Old Oct 3, 2010 | 10:24 AM
  #34  
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From: north cali
ok i got a problem!!

installed it and drove up to Tahoe about 120mi round trip all highway. first every few secs it would Bang then jerk me left or right. but the big problem is a few times a min it would BANG rev up, sometimes times 250rpm and jerk the truck BBBAD. is that normal, to me its un drivable and is going to brake something else, only does that over about 25mpg. im going to take it out if thats normal?

Last edited by drkblu4runner; Oct 3, 2010 at 10:25 AM.
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Old Oct 3, 2010 | 10:26 AM
  #35  
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From: north cali
i know this is NOT it but, felt like i sucked a bolt through the ring pinion.
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Old Oct 3, 2010 | 09:37 PM
  #36  
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From: north cali
made new post
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 10:34 AM
  #37  
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From: Ottawa, Illinois
That really sucks. I was expecting a post about how you "couldn't believe the extra traction." Were you in 4x4? Tires same diameter? Have manual hubs? Sounds like something is binding real bad. I'm just guessing here, new to the wheelin' thing.
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 10:43 AM
  #38  
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From: north cali
haha ya bolth back tires spin. now i need more power. heres a link to new post

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...advice-221343/
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 10:47 AM
  #39  
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From: north cali
same tires, i have manual hubs in front. not in 4x4
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 11:05 AM
  #40  
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From: Pflugerville, Texas
Originally Posted by MB4runner
Almost seems like you purposely try to come across as an ass. And what you say, it's never even the full story. Why don't you take the time to think your posts through because what you said about driving it "like you're supposed to" is easier said than done.

Now for some useful information... If you do city driving, it's kind of hard NOT to stay on the gas while your turning. Cities tend to have traffic lights. Sometimes you have to start from a red light ya know? So you're locker will act like a spool. Long sweeping turns on the highway, you pretty much stay on the gas or you'll be slowing down and obstructing traffic, but the curve is so gradual you really don't even notice it. Parking lots, same deal, you kinda need to be on the gas to park. You can't exactly speed up to 20 miles per hour and try and launch it into the spot lol.

Basically... not very many scenarios when you can turn without being on the gas unless you are driving at 3am with no traffic around.

Having said all that, and for those reasons. I have a spool, it's predictable, not a nightmare like some people who have never driven one suggest it is. And no moving parts to break...
I don't know who taught you to drive, but giving the truck gas while parking is a bad idea unless you're going from a dead stop, in that case it won't really matter will it? I usually just hit the clutch and coast into the parking spot (using the brakes when needed of course), makes things much simpler. As far as the spool goes, not everyone wants to have their DD locked all the time, but we can't afford the selectables, so we get the lunchbox lockers.
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