I am looking for some ideas. My 1989 pickup has soft brakes. A few months back I found a leak in one of the lines running to the rear brakes. I replaced both these lines. The master ran dry so I removed it and bench bled it. There did not appear to be any fluid coming out of the back. I noticed that the fluid was really dark, like Guinness. So I removed the reservoir, washed and thoroughly dried it. There was still some gunk in the master, but after bench bleeding the fluid was still a goldenish color. I reinstalled it. I bled all the brakes and last of all the lspv. The pedal still seems a little squishy and doesn't engage until it travels almost 1/8-1/4 of its total distance. I plan on replacing the front pad and rotors. I've been avoiding the rears because I hate messing with drum brakes.

Anyways, I like a rock solid pedal and I can't seem to get one. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

I've never heard of these brakes being rock solid in the first place. Our brakes are not very good, not much you can do about it. Mine acts the same way and I bleed the brakes every 2 years on schedule. As long as you can stop safely, there's not much you can do. It might be the brake booster starting to wear out... but these are so old that I don't think it's worth the money.

If you're pedal has too much play, you can adjust it. With the engine off, pump the brake pedal firmly several times until it firms. If there's too much movement (use your hand) at that point, adjust it down below at the pedal to remove the play:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../3checksan.pdf

 

Thanks. I'm going to try to tighten the drums and if that doesn't work, it looks like I'm stuck...

 

If it really bothers you you could look at a rear disc brake swap. You give up your e brake but your stoping power is increased. Also you could install a driveshaft e-brake. At the same time.

 

not with any water-based cleaner, I hope?

there is a lot that you can do to improve these Toyota brakes... later model calipers, 1" master, and the later model dual booster.

I would start out by checking the free play at the brake pedal, it's easy and costs nothing.

 

Soap and water is better for brake parts than any petroleum solvents are.
I have always had good sucess with dishsoap and hot water, then compressed air and a final rinse with high proof rubbing alcohol to get the last water out of any crevices. I sometimes oven dry some metal pieces if I have any concern about hidden leftover water.
Got to watch out for flash rust though because the parts have been totally degreased by this cleaning.

 

You need to bleed the brakes in a certain order.
You need to start with the brakes furthest from the master cylinder and work your way towards the master cylinder.

Bleed in this order...
Passenger rear.
Drivers rear.
LSPV.
Passenger front.
Drivers front.

That might help.

 

I cleaned them with water and compressed air. Got them super dry... As for the order, I thought the lspv went last. I will rebleed in that order. I will also check the free play. I just tightened the adjustment on the drums this weekend and no dice...

 

I was redoing my ball joints and while I had the wheels off I did new pads and rotors and now my pedal is even softer! I did not crack any bleeders or let any air in. I am thinking when I pressed the calipers back in that it killed an already weak master cylinder. I am going to throw a new master at it and see what that does...

 

Threw on the new master and that did it! Rock hard pedal after the bench and gravity bleeds! Thanks for all the help here guys!