Simple EGR delete and vacuum quest
#1
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Simple EGR delete and vacuum quest
So I'm learning, and searched the forums. I took things apart as part of a larger issue, and didn't label EGR hoses as specifically as I should have. I'm just trying to get this newly, purchased, newly brokedown truck to run. EGR was completely clogged. So doing a temp delete of that and only that for this rebuild.
Most of the posts involve folks trying to delete all vacuum lines. I just want to delete the ones necessary with egr, but lost my reference. I've seen diagrams. And I've seen pics of all sorts of configs. What leaves me unknowledgeable; are the vacuum lines of similar diameter on ports? And exactly which three hoses do the egr connect to on engine? I get mixed up in most diagrams and photos.
I know this is discussed heavily. Just not directly. Newby here. Thanks in advance. Last puzzle before trying to start.
Most of the posts involve folks trying to delete all vacuum lines. I just want to delete the ones necessary with egr, but lost my reference. I've seen diagrams. And I've seen pics of all sorts of configs. What leaves me unknowledgeable; are the vacuum lines of similar diameter on ports? And exactly which three hoses do the egr connect to on engine? I get mixed up in most diagrams and photos.
I know this is discussed heavily. Just not directly. Newby here. Thanks in advance. Last puzzle before trying to start.
#2
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Tell us the year and engine configuration of the truck. Vac lines and emissions stuff varied year to year.
Funny thing, completely clogged EGR is by virtue of the fact, deleted.
Back in the 90’s TRD used to offer a white paper. I can’t recall if i had to pay money for it, probably, but in it there were two topics i remember.
One was how to adjust your AFM to richen the mixture and the other was how to disable the EGR and still have it look stock for inspection puposes.
They recommended inserting a BB in the vacuum line between the EGR vac modulator and EGR valve. That was it.
Funny thing, completely clogged EGR is by virtue of the fact, deleted.
Back in the 90’s TRD used to offer a white paper. I can’t recall if i had to pay money for it, probably, but in it there were two topics i remember.
One was how to adjust your AFM to richen the mixture and the other was how to disable the EGR and still have it look stock for inspection puposes.
They recommended inserting a BB in the vacuum line between the EGR vac modulator and EGR valve. That was it.
#3
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1987 4Runner, 22-RE. Sorry for that lack of info there. And perhaps that's what I do? I read that was some others opinions, but I've seen a lot of opinions that the majority do not agree with so only going with ideas that are at least backed by a few.
Although put some blocker plates up already so would have to clean that back off, no biggy. I just want the most convenient config to get it running and hope my warm compression test is better now that I have 4/4 rather than 2/4 injectors and various other parts cleaned up and/or replaced.
Thanks Melrose!
Although put some blocker plates up already so would have to clean that back off, no biggy. I just want the most convenient config to get it running and hope my warm compression test is better now that I have 4/4 rather than 2/4 injectors and various other parts cleaned up and/or replaced.
Thanks Melrose!
#4
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Here’s a diagram from the Haynes Toyota pickup manual. I hope it helps.
#5
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